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1878 Reverse triggers


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4 minutes ago, Roanoke Rifleman, SASS #30256 said:

A guess we need a tie breaker

 

Nope,  my decision is strictly my own.  Ain't this a great county?  

 

BTW,  I don't deactivate safeties on my doubles that have them. 

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2 hours ago, Roanoke Rifleman, SASS #30256 said:

Some suggest reversing the triggers on the 1878 coach gun.

Will doing this have any bad effects on the operation of the gun?

Thanks

No problems. 

I have 2 TTN/Cimarron 1878's and both work absolutely perfect with the triggers reversed. 

I find it to be a much smoother transition from front to back trigger with the right trigger in the trailing position.

Johnny Meadows did my first one and as I learned more about breaking down the '78 I did the second one myself.

It's not that had to do.

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I'm with the Warden on this one,  the triggers were reversed on my 1878 when I bought it which did nothing but mess me up, I switched them back around as soon as I could  

 

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5 hours ago, Roanoke Rifleman, SASS #30256 said:

Some suggest reversing the triggers on the 1878 coach gun.

Will doing this have any bad effects on the operation of the gun?

Thanks

To answer your question; no, the gun will function and perform just as before except the forward trigger will fire the left barrel and the rear trigger will fire the right barrel.

 

If you are right handed this mod can make your second shot very quick and smooth.  On my TTN swapping the triggers was almost as easy as pulling two slices of bread from a toaster and dropping them in the opposite slot.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Smoke

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All my sxss are setup so shooting left handed my trigger finger can be dragged across both triggers so I pull the front and let it slide off on to the rear trigger.

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I'm going to have to send it off, I can't find a wrench that will fit the nuts

on the hammers. On size is too small the next size up is too large.

I was told it is metric but hane tried metric as well as American wrenches

and have the same problem.

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597d44167e1f5_Colt1878sideplatesJuly2017.jpg.eafb654d028305ab579bbdcb6053ce01.jpg

 

Original Colt lock above Cimarron 1878 lock below. 

 

My Cimarron has a screw ahead of the hammer and another behind the hammer that mount the lock sideplate.  Your gun may not have the screw behind the hammer.  In any case, there is no need to remove the hammers from the locks. 

 

ALSO...  There is a large screw hidden under the top snap lever that screws into the trigger plate assembly.  Push the lever over to find it.  There is another screw ahead of the trigger guard. A screw at back of tang. And a couple of wood screws behind the trigger guard.

 

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"I have never seen a schematic or had any instruction on how to get this thing apart.

I assume you need to take the off to get the side plates off.

If you know better I'm all ears."


 

The sideplates, hammers and lock internals come off as a unit.

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Here is a video of a hammerless double being disassembled by an amateur.   You won't have some of the features of this shotgun.  For example,  the cocking thing under the forend or the safety parts. But the basic procedure will be the same.

 

Two glaring problems I see in this video is the use of cheap hardware store screw drivers.  The other is the way he pried the side plate lock assemblies out of the action.  If they don't lift out by a gentle wiggle,  then take a brass rod and insert threw the back hole and try pushing the lock plate out on the opposite side.  Once one side is out, bump the other side out by use of the brass rod. 

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Larsen, you are correct about the hammers, side plates & locks coming of as a unit.

It's easier to remove the hammers, & side plates in order to be able to remove the trigger assembly. One the trigger group is out one can see how to swap the triggers. BTW the nut holding the hammers to the side plate/lock is 7mm nut, easily removed with a 7mm box end wrench.

 

TB

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16 minutes ago, Turquoise Bill, SASS #39118 said:

Larsen, you are correct about the hammers, side plates & locks coming of as a unit.

It's easier to remove the hammers, & side plates in oreder to be able to remove the trigger assembly. One the trigger group is out one can see how to swap the triggers. BTW the nut holding the hammers to the side plate/lock is 7mm nut, easily removed with a 7mm box end wrench.

 

TB

Yep.  The wrench that is difficult to find is the one for the nuts that hold in the firiing pins.

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1 hour ago, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

Yep.  The wrench that is difficult to find is the one for the nuts that hold in the firiing pins.

Yes, same 7mm, use the open end of the combo on the firing pin nuts.

TB

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The Early TTN's had an original hex size. They are not SAE or metric. they were patterned after the original Colts. The easiest way to tell them from the current production guns is they did not have the screws at the rear that tied to two plates together. 

Notice, there is no hole above the sear spring in the original. 

597d44167e1f5_Colt1878sideplatesJuly2017.jpg.eafb654d028305ab579bbdcb6053ce01.jpg.3d275306888a4cc80fb9099489780ff9.jpg

 

Early on when Walt Johnson was the TTN rep I was telling him how I had to make a socket to fit those hammer nuts. I tapered an allen wrench heated an old undersized socket and swedged it out to fit. His reply was, "How about I send you the correct tool?"  :blink:

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5 hours ago, Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 said:

The Early TTN's had an original hex size. They are not SAE or metric. they were patterned after the original Colts. The easiest way to tell them from the current production guns is they did not have the screws at the rear that tied to two plates together. 

Notice, there is no hole above the sear spring in the original. 

597d44167e1f5_Colt1878sideplatesJuly2017.jpg.eafb654d028305ab579bbdcb6053ce01.jpg.3d275306888a4cc80fb9099489780ff9.jpg

 

Early on when Walt Johnson was the TTN rep I was telling him how I had to make a socket to fit those hammer nuts. I tapered an allen wrench heated an old undersized socket and swedged it out to fit. His reply was, "How about I send you the correct tool?"  :blink:

 

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If you are a right hand shooter, switching triggers will make more sense. I have a PDF I made some time ago that shows the basic disassembly of the Cimarron 1878 with pictures and descriptions, I can email to you.

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52 minutes ago, El Mulo Vaquero, SASS #55942 said:

If you are a right hand shooter, switching triggers will make more sense. I have a PDF I made some time ago that shows the basic disassembly of the Cimarron 1878 with pictures and descriptions, I can email to you.

 

Please post a link here on the public forum.

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I have 3 hammered doubles,  2 TTN's and 1 CZ. 1 of the TTN's has the triggers switched bought it that way. To be honest I can't tell the difference when shooting. I shoot the one with the switched triggers the most now but it's just because I have a fancy leather butt cover that holds it to my shoulder the best.

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1 hour ago, El Mulo Vaquero, SASS #55942 said:

If you are a right hand shooter, switching triggers will make more sense. I have a PDF I made some time ago that shows the basic disassembly of the Cimarron 1878 with pictures and descriptions, I can email to you.

I'd appreciate that my email is jlk757@aol.com

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