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Grizzly Dave

Any surfers out there?

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My brain is a strange place. I was watching TV the other night when an ad came on for something or another. It showed a surfer surfing a curling wave with his hand trailing into the water at the front of the wave.

 

Made me wonder if it's just fun to do, for style points, or if there is some advantage to doing it for balance or whatever.

 

Surfers, what do you think?

 

Grizz, who has only body surfed as a kid.

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I have never tried it. I am very uncoordinated and afraid I would end up breaking something.

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Yes, I used to surf alot (grew up in Newport Beach) via long board, skim board, knee board, and body surf. Sometimes a surfer will use his/her hand to 'brake' or even steer a little bit by plunging it in the water, like a rudder. Call it weird, but one can also get a 'feel' for the wave....I don't know about the hand in front though...haven't surfed in over 20 years :(

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

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GG I think we are talking about the same thing, I just had trouble articulating what I was talking about.

 

I thought that maybe the hand in the water served a function, it makes sense that the drag might help keep you pointed the right direction.

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Shooting the curl is very cool...till something goes wrong. :lol:

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UB...anything worth doing that involves fun has its dangers.

 

GG

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Yes, I used to surf alot (grew up in Newport Beach) via long board, skim board, knee board, and body surf. Sometimes a surfer will use his/her hand to 'brake' or even steer a little bit by plunging it in the water, like a rudder. Call it weird, but one can also get a 'feel' for the wave....I don't know about the hand in front though...haven't surfed in over 20 years :(

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

Gunner has it right, depending on the speed the wave is breaking, you can slow yourself down to stay in the pipe. Of course growing up in Central Florida the only times the waves got that big was when the hurricanes were offshore.

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It's been years since I've been surfing. Still have a couple of boards. The hand serves purposes as already described. It also helps to gauge position.

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Haven't been on a board since '68. With a 9' board and the average waves we have here in So. Cal., if my hand got in the water, I was under with it. I wasn't that good.

 

 

TF

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My brain is a strange place. I was watching TV the other night when an ad came on for something or another. It showed a surfer surfing a curling wave with his hand trailing into the water at the front of the wave.

 

Made me wonder if it's just fun to do, for style points, or if there is some advantage to doing it for balance or whatever.

 

Surfers, what do you think?

 

 

 

Grizz, who has only body surfed as a kid.

For max style points: Hang Ten! ooooO Ooooo

 

Ya don't see 'em do that on those tiny little boards they ride today. Ain't that right Tom Foolery!?

 

Birdgun (grew up in Ventura County and could never even hang five) Quail

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curley in 66

 

Huntington in 80

 

I used to surf. Here is a shot of me with my Greg Noll (9'2") There is nothing quite like catching yer first wave. Unfortunatly, if you were not a great surfer as the lineups got more crowded so did the fussing over "turf". Locals would fight over it. When I saw a fist fight breakout sitting in the line up, I gave up the board and went to "boogy boarding"....I had a friend that shaped for Dewey Weber make me a fiberglass board about 3'long with concave and dual fins...about 15 years before Morey started the craze.

 

I still miss the surf and the smell of the salt water but, with the dirty water and the crowds and my arthritis, I just have memories of Rincon or Malibu on a good day....

 

curley

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curley in 66

 

Huntington in 80

 

I used to surf. Here is a shot of me with my Greg Noll (9'2") There is nothing quite like catching yer first wave. Unfortunatly, if you were not a great surfer as the lineups got more crowded so did the fussing over "turf". Locals would fight over it. When I saw a fist fight breakout sitting in the line up, I gave up the board and went to "boogy boarding"....I had a friend that shaped for Dewey Weber make me a fiberglass board about 3'long with concave and dual fins...about 15 years before Morey started the craze.

 

I still miss the surf and the smell of the salt water but, with the dirty water and the crowds and my arthritis, I just have memories of Rincon or Malibu on a good day....

 

curley

 

Right on!!!

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

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For max style points: Hang Ten! ooooO Ooooo

 

Ya don't see 'em do that on those tiny little boards they ride today. Ain't that right Tom Foolery!?

 

Birdgun (grew up in Ventura County and could never even hang five) Quail

 

Toes on the nose brother!

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

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curley in 66

 

Huntington in 80

 

I used to surf. Here is a shot of me with my Greg Noll (9'2") There is nothing quite like catching yer first wave. Unfortunatly, if you were not a great surfer as the lineups got more crowded so did the fussing over "turf". Locals would fight over it. When I saw a fist fight breakout sitting in the line up, I gave up the board and went to "boogy boarding"....I had a friend that shaped for Dewey Weber make me a fiberglass board about 3'long with concave and dual fins...about 15 years before Morey started the craze.

 

I still miss the surf and the smell of the salt water but, with the dirty water and the crowds and my arthritis, I just have memories of Rincon or Malibu on a good day....

 

curley

 

 

Very cool Curley, I also had a Greg Noll back in the day (wish I still had it). Have a 9'2 Joel Tudor now, haven't been out too much lately since my son has been deployed.

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Very cool Curley, I also had a Greg Noll back in the day (wish I still had it). Have a 9'2 Joel Tudor now, haven't been out too much lately since my son has been deployed.

 

 

SBB

 

When I was in my photography classes back in '88 one of my fellow students (young enough to be a daughter) got to talkin to me about surfing...she said her father got her brother a surfboard and he didn't like it cuz it was "big"

she asked me if I would like it...said "how much", she said "free"....well, bring it on. and she did...she brought me a cherry 9'6" Hansen from the mid sixties. NO dings, NO patches. It wouldn't even fit in the bed of my Dakota..I kept it for about 5 years and only rode it once, and sold it to a buddy who gave it to his brother in Hawaii so it got good daily use....

I still miss the water, and everynow and then when Endless Summer comes on at late nite...WOW (I used to watch Bruce Brown movies back when he narrated them in person. Santa Monica Civic Auditorium, Huntington Beach High Auditoriom.

Them were the days...

curley

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Used to surf at Huntington when I was a lot younger. Spent a lot of time there in the late 50's early 60's. Had a board made by a local, don't remember how long it was, but it stuck out way over the tailgate of my 56 Ford PU, it was made by Gordy who had a shop right in HB. When I was drafted in 63, somehow one of my sister's boyfriends ended up with the board. Used to body surf at the "Wedge" in Newport beach too. That was a long time ago, lots of fun too.

 

I went to high school with a guy named Hansen who made boards, lived in Downey, wonder if it is the same guy?

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Hey Curley, Hansen's are nice sticks...almost bot tha Hansen 50-50.

 

Big Sage, The Hansen who makes these sticks was Don Hansen from Hawaii.

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Hansen Surfboards

 

Hansen still has shops one in Encinetis and one in Seal Beach...

 

I still wander thru the surf shops. Panchos up in Pizmo Beach is a cool shop.....'cept Pancho is a redhead!

 

good surfin

 

curley

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Bruce Brown is awesome!!

 

Just watched On Any Sunday the other night (for the umteenth time) - that and Endless Summer are TIMELESS!!

 

My step dad was Mike Stoner (used to own Laguna Niguel Honda). He was a motorcrosser in the late 60's - mid 70's and raced up at Escape Country. I still have a couple of photgraphs of Mert Lawwill. Trying to get Mike interested in CAS...

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

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There'a a cool movie called Step into Liquid that came out about 7 years ago.

It was made made by Dana Brown, son of Bruce Brown, it has a segment with Robert August co-star of the Endless Summer movie, now in his 60's... surfing with his son Sam in Costa Rica, I believe. Great movie.

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There'a a cool movie called Step into Liquid that came out about 7 years ago.

It was made made by Dana Brown, son of Bruce Brown, it has a segment with Robert August co-star of the Endless Summer movie, now in his 60's... surfing with his son Sam in Costa Rica, I believe. Great movie.

 

Sweet!

Have to check that one out..

 

Kinda funny about On Any Sunday ~ was thinking about Mert Lawwill and googled him and checked out his website. He makes some neat prosthetics for motorcyclists and cyclists.

 

http://www.mertlawwill.com/

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

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OK lets really test you locals from SoCal and the60-70's

 

How many of you remember the long lost movie made by Tim Morgan (local surfer/folksinger who performed at the Prison of Socrates....(in Balboa/Newport.

 

Lets see of that shakes loose some of the cobwebs...

 

curley

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ok, for those that need a little help. Here is part one of ..............Dirty Feet: (I never thought it would turn up.)

 

 

 

 

curley

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ok, for those that need a little help. Here is part one of ..............Dirty Feet: (I never thought it would turn up.)

 

 

 

 

curley

 

Man - cool!! I dig surf music...it speaks of a time when....wow..my eyes are filling up with little waves :)

 

...I miss 'I' street & the Balboa Pier

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

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ok, for those that need a little help. Here is part one of ..............Dirty Feet: (I never thought it would turn up.)

 

 

 

 

curley

 

Shoot! can't open Dirty Feet (I'm @ werk). But I do remember, Tim Morgan even played at our High school in 67.

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Tim used to play my high school 64-65. My mom waz active in March of Dimes so we got a semi private concert. Got to go back stage and visit. He ribbed me cuz I had a date with one name and asked for an autograph for a girl by another name..he was a cool guy. Talked to him a couple of years ago. He quit performing when he couldnt remember the songs and chords...

 

I sure miss them days..

 

curley

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Watch some of these folks. One guy even got hit by TWO waves....my my

 

 

curley

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