'73 mag plug

[Redleg Reilly, SASS #46372]

I've got the same problem others have had removing the mag plug on my '73. I've tried the impact wrench and the appropriate Brownells tip but the entire mag tube is turning instead of just the end plug. Any ideas from you smart guys on how to secure the magazine and get the end plug out without damaging the magazine.

 

Thanks!

[Kidd Krystin]

I had the same trouble with my '73. Took it to a local gunsmith who had to put it in a vise to get the damned plug removed.

[John Boy]

I've got the same problem others have had removing the mag plug on my '73.

Reilly, are you willing to send a $25 check to the SASS Scholarship after you receive the way to remove the plug correctly with no damage ... for the FREE advice?

 

The SASS Scholarship Foundation

[Doc Flimshaw Sass# 73310]

Uniquetek has a new tool specifically for this on their website....Doc

[Iron Pony]

Redleg if you can get something like liquid wrench around the follower set the rifle muzzle down and let it soak in the magazine tube for a day or two, then get in touch with Barley Pop Bill and get one of his socket wrench screwdriver bits. They fit on a 3/8s drive and give you "wicked pissah" tourque. That and maybe a little heat should do it.

[Wrangler Rich SASS #42157]

And, when you get it out, before you put it back in, coat the threads with

 

something like choketube antisieze paste to make it easier to get out

 

again.

[SlicLee SASS #16638 Life]

Like Iron Pony sez,prop gun up on rag, action open, press follower in spray LW into mag tube, tap with wood. Have patience, eat dinner, tap a few hours later, try repeat slowly, use hairdryer low heat. Next too last resort, place vice grip carefully on edge,do not squeeze too hard before locking, try carefully holding mag tube with anything that wont mark, wishing you the best

[Ranger Sgt. Jake McCandless #3368]

Mine came out using I P method only I used Kroil instead of liquid wrench,it Works. Adios Sgt. Jake

[Matthew Duncan]

I ordered a replacement plug

 

Then I carefully used channel lock pliers to get a good grip on the offending plug. A good twist and out she came.

 

Clean and oiled the tube and spring. Reassembled using the new plug (old one was chewed up by the channel locks).

 

 

Next problem...

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

but the entire mag tube is turning instead of just the end plug.

 

Howdy

 

It may be time to see a gunsmith.

 

The magazine tube is held in place by a thin pin running from one side of the magazine hanger to the other side. There is a shallow groove cut across the tube that receives the pin. My standard advice when removing the mag plug for the first time is to gently but securely hold the mag tube with a padded vice grips to prevent it from rotating. It is a bit tricky to put enough pressure on the tube to hold it securely but still not crush the tube. If your tube is rotating freely, the pin has swaged a new groove completely around the tube. You may need to see a gunsmith in order to weld in a little bit of steel at the ends of the groove to prevent the tube from rotating. You also need to make sure the mag spring and follower are not hanging up on any new protrusions from the new groove into the tube. Hopefully, when you remove the plug your mag tube will not be rotating freely.

 

I do advise that before you try any further removal efforts of the plug, you secure the tube as I have suggested. The first time I removed my mag plug I used the vise grips in one hand, and I used a putty knife as a 'screwdriver'. I put an adjustable wrench on the flat blade of the putty knife for extra leverage. I got lucky and removed the plug without the use of any penetrating fluid, but it certainly is not a bad idea to use some.

[Redleg Reilly, SASS #46372]

I appreciate the help. The tube doesn't swing all the way around but it is moving a bit as I attempt to turn the plug. I'll order the replacement plug and try the padded pliers routine.

[John Boy]

For metal parts that won't budge, a 50:50 mix of ATF and Acetone breaks them apart. Even salt water rusted bolts. Use it all the time instead of the commercial products

 

Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. the magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional

machinist.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants

with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from

a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ..................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ................ 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ............. 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ................ 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix..............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic

transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better

than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use

it with equally good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for

about 20% of the price.

[Tom Payne 13115]

Redleg here's the trick. Get a non maring hammer rawhide , brass whatever. Give the plug 3 or 4 good whacks like you were hammering a nail, and it will come right out. Trust me it works every time.

[I. M. Crossdraw, SASS# 8321]

Ok folks, here is a trick that I always use when unscrewing that mag tube plug. After you have done everything you can to loosen that plug, like using penetrant, impact driver and such, wrap a rubber surgical tubing or a rubber tourniquet around the barrel and mag tube. You need to wrap it so that you spread the holding power of the rubber tourniquet along the tube/barrel. This prevents the mag tube from rotating and damaging the tube. Now with the screw bit that fits the plug slot, while applying a downward pressure, start unscrewing it. The mag tube will not bend because the barrel is acting as a splint along the mag tube. Using a vise to hold the mag tube is a little bit risky of squeezing it too hard. A rubber tourniquet is better because it acts like a third hand holding on the tube. I hope I explained this clearly as I can. Hope this help. Always works for me.

[Nate Kiowa Jones #6765]

Ok folks, here is a trick that I always use when unscrewing that mag tube plug. After you have done everything you can to loosen that plug, like using penetrant, impact driver and such, wrap a rubber surgical tubing or a rubber tourniquet around the barrel and mag tube. You need to wrap it so that you spread the holding power of the rubber tourniquet along the tube/barrel. This prevents the mag tube from rotating and damaging the tube. Now with the screw bit that fits the plug slot, while applying a downward pressure, start unscrewing it. The mag tube will not bend because the barrel is acting as a splint along the mag tube. Using a vise to hold the mag tube is a little bit risky of squeezing it too hard. A rubber tourniquet is better because it acts like a third hand holding on the tube. I hope I explained this clearly as I can. Hope this help. Always works for me.

 

That might work but all the penatrating oil, beating on the plug or any of that isn't going to work if the mag tube is turning too. AS DJ and you said you gotta figger out a way to hold the tube and pliers isn't a good way to do it. You need to use a bench mounted machinist vise with padded jaws to spread the load out over the tube so it doesn't get marked up. Then use the impact driver.