DocWard Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I have some firearms with some pretty nice wood on them. I was just curious what others use on theirs to keep it in good condition and protect it. I'm sure there will be plenty of suggestions and opinions, so have at it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stepnmud#33546 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Ballistol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Frank Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I used tung oil on most of the military surplus rifles that I've refinished. I like tung oil bacause it is easy to use: rub it in, let it dry, rub more in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Nothing Wipe them with a dry cloth soon after the match Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Art Tillery Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I shoot a Puma... the wood don't have that real glossy shine (which I kinda like). But I use "Scotts Liquid Gold" pour a lil on a rag and wipe down, has worked very well for me and can be bought almost anywhere. Scotts Liquid Gold website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Canyon Kid #43974 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I have some firearms with some pretty nice wood on them. I was just curious what others use on theirs to keep it in good condition and protect it. I'm sure there will be plenty of suggestions and opinions, so have at it! Well,I have several guns I have owned for at least 50 years and I have never put anything on the wood, other than accidentally and then immediately wiped it off. Metal yes, wood, no. Those guns still look like new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOUBLE B HUTCH, SASS # 23346 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Doc, I use a silicone rag on wood and metal to clean and condition. Hutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Howdy I used to make my living as a woodworker, perhaps I can shed a little light on this subject. There are basically two types of wood finishes. There are finishes that form a thin film and sit on the surface of the wood, and there are finishes that sink into the wood. Most firearms manufacturers today, and most furniture manufacturers for that matter, use the first type. The finish can be a varnish, it can be a lacquer, it can be a shellac. All of these contain resins suspended in a solvent. When the solvent evaporates, the resins are left behind, polymerizing to form a thin layer that sits on the surface of the wood. Varnish is the most common these days. The finish may be gloss, it may be semi-gloss, it may be matte. But most firearm manufacturers today use some sort of varnish. Varnish is usually more water resistant than either lacquer or shellac. Uberti uses a high gloss varnish. Marlin uses a matte varnish. My old Winchesters have varnish on them where there is still finish. With a varnish finish, all you have to do is wipe it clean with a damp cloth. As long as the finish is in reasonably good condition, and not all scratched up, all those lemon scented furniture preparations are a waste of money. The coat of varnish completely seals the wood off and anything you put on top is just going to sit on top of the varnish. It is not going to sink into the wood and 'refresh' it like most of them claim. Oil finishes are different. Most oil finishes have tung oil in them. The oil does not sit on the surface, it penetrates into the surface of the wood, and then polymerizes. They have to be applied in several coats, and then wiped down. That is why modern mass produced guns will not have an oil finish on them, too labor intensive. Eventually, an oil finish will dry out and need to be refreshed with more oil. Any hardware store oil finish can be used, it needs to be applied, allowed to sit for a little while as it penetrates, and then the excess must be wiped off or it becomes gummy. But most modern firearms are going to have a varnish finish, and all you need to do is not bang them around at the loading table, and wipe them down occasionally with a damp cloth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geronimo Jim SASS # 21775 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Ballistol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouchy Greg, SASS#71981 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Once in a while I'll wax the wood, but mostly I just rub them down with a silicone rag after a match to get rid of sweaty fingerprints on wood and metal. Silicone rags are great and last a long time. I've only gone through 3 of them since I started using them way back in '68 and just recently broke out #4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Plasters, SASS#60943 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 I've been using Dixie gun works "antique gun finish" (I think that's what it's called) when I do need to touch up the wood especially after hunting in foul weather or wearing those rubber knobbed gloves. Other than that I have done the silicone rag wipe down and rarely Ballistol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppy Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 I use a silicone gun rag and wipe it down after each match and most importantly I store in a case inside my dry dry safe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 As one former (retired) professional woodworker to another, I agree completely with Driftwood. Nothing is the answer. Oil finishes don't protect against anything. They do provide nice color though. Just keep nasty stuff off the wood and don't drown the stock with gun oil where the wood meets the metal. Coffinmaker PS: Tung oil, improperly applied may never dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 I guess I'm a slacker, I usually use rain or sweat depending on the time of the year. Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonopah Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 There is a product from Brownell's called Renaissance Micro Crystalline Wax Polish which is "...used by British Museums and restoration specialists to revive and protect valuable furniture..." A local gunsmith likes Meguiar's Deep Crystal system polish, step 2 in the 3 step system when he refinishes stocks. I prefer Mothers California Gold pure Carnauba Wax, step 3 in the 3 step system. I've used all three on oiled and polyurethane type finishes. It really brings out a shine on the stock and water just rolls off. I use to get some small white spots on an oil finished stock whenever it came in contact with rain drops. The Mothers wax prevents this. However, I don't think the stock was properly sealed to begin with. Brownell's also has a Stock Rubbing Compound, Triple F Stock Rubbing Compound and Five F Stock Rubbing Compound which used progressively which polish minor dings and scratches out of polyurethane type stock finishes. The Five F Stock Rubbing Compound will polish scratches out of watch crystals. For a real glass like luster, finish with the Mothers wax mentioned above. I just love what shines (moonshine included). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocWard Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 I appreciate all of the input! Thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Oil finishes don't protect against anything ** Rub multiple coats of linseed or tung oil with no varnish. It goes deep into the grains. Get a ding where the grains are not cut. Raise the dent with a steam iron and re-coat with linseed or tung oils ... ding is gone and area looks the same as the rest of the wood. ** My Ithaca pump, vintage 1955, that I use for duck hunting is linseed coated. Duck hunters get water on their guns, I get salt water. Give the wood a rub down with a linseed rag - stock/forearm still looks great So, have to disagree with statement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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