Nostrum Damus SASS #110702

They don't mean much but it is a fun conversation piece on the wall -- especially for our non-shooting friends -- complete with Old West Action Figurines!!

OK, for my light cowboy action loads, I am using charge bar 502-34 in my 9000GN press to drop 3/4 oz of #8 lead shot, with powder bushing #20 which drops about 14.4 gr of Titewad under Claybuster CB0175-12 pink wads. I use Federal 209A primers, not 209 as previously mentioned, though I doubt that matters at all. Great cowboy action shell.

I've used Titewad for years as well and it works great. I load light recoiling 3/4 oz loads in Win AA hulls with 209 primers and Claybuster CB0175-12 pink wads. I love shooting the shells and so does 110-lb Bullion Rose and they are more than adequate for every KD we've shot at. I'll check the MEC bushing in my 9000GN tomorrow for you.

Also on Richmond in Houston and I've gotten some great bargains there: https://www.houstoncameraexchange.com/

We don't go down range without calling a cease fire across all stages, so it is not practical to go reset the KDs and plate racks by hand because at least one and usually two other posses would have to stop whatever they are doing.

FD -- Are you sure the yellow stuff is nylon? That is a very unusual color for nylon rope. The most common yellow stuff is polypropylene and it indeed weathers, while good quality nylon lasts a very long time without significant weathering damage. I tip my hat to all the pards who really like having to bring in ropes after every match, and then having to set them out again before every next match! Me, personally -- I'd rather use some ropes that are designed to live for years outside in full hot sun and all other conditions Mother Nature has to offer. Marine grade braided nylon rope works great but that "mule tape" stuff sounds great, too!

I'm currently in charge of maintaining our club's KD and plate rack reset ropes. My goal is to set things up so they last a very long time between required maintenance or replacement. Don't waste your time on cheap rope, the kind you can get at Home Depot in 100-foot rolls for $5 each -- it is false economy because the cheap stuff actually breaks down in UV (that is, sunlight). At least here in in the Texas sun and heat, that stuff lasts less then two months before it disintegrates. Get 3/8" or, better still, 1/2" solid braid marine grade rope that is designed to protect expensive floating toys for years under the worst outdoor conditions -- salt, sun, heat, wet. Multi-strand wire rope works at first but as soon as it kinks or twists or loops, or if any single one of the strands breaks, wire rope becomes a problem. Still, short lengths of wire rope are used at the targets because lead splatter will damage unprotected nylon rope. Make a loop at both mating ends of the wire rope and the nylon rope and connect the loops with carabiners. Also, there are some stages where using all nylon rope make more sense; wire rope simply won't smoothly ride the pulleys of our swinging target. On that stage, the several feet of nylon rope that is exposed to lead splatter is protected with rope chafe guards (Kevlar or Dyneema sleeves sold by the foot, secured on the rope with nylon zip-ties).

Happy Appy -- that's the Amazon link for YOU to buy them on Amazon. I bought what I need and you can too! They come in different colors, to boot! ND

Purly, delete the photo with your personal information showing.

That's a good deal and your daughter, Ustas, will really like the shorter stock and it will totally change (for the better) how she handles the scattergun. All of us who have put short stocks on our petite ladies' 97s will vouch for that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y5PZ3R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 two wraps for $18. includes four lengths of synthetic sinew, two needles. I have put these on all my lever guns, they are fantastic. You watch the company's YouTube and do what the guy does along with him, and they turn out perfect every time.

Pardon me for asking: what is a P38 Enfield bayonet? I've never heard of it.

Update. I removed the grips. Decided to start the experiment with new mineral spirits. Wiping did nothing. Rubbing hard with spirits-soaked clean shop rags did the trick though, albeit with substantial elbow grease added. I had to disassemble the ejector as well to get at all the nooks and crannies. The entire outer metal surfaces of all parts of both guns had the microscopically thin yet amazingly stubborn yellowed whatever-it-was on it. I then LIGHTLY oiled a silicone rag and wiped all surfaces again before reassembling both guns. They are both bright shiny white high polish stainless again. OLG, I'll never know if acetone would have worked better or faster. I had the time and elbow grease to spare, so I spent it.

Good idea. I haven't really thought about which solvents on my shop's chemicals shelf I might try. Paint thinner (mineral spirits), acetone, carburetor cleaner (primarily methyl chloride), brake cleaner (primarily tetrachloroethylene), or something else.

I have one exactly as shown -- awesome machine at a great price. Someone should snap it up.