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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 last won the day on April 23 2018

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About Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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  • Birthday November 30

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  • SASS #
    60708 LIFE
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Buffalo Range Riders, High Desert Drifters, Rio Grande Renegades

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Albuquerque NM
  • Interests
    shooting, hiking, hunting, fishing, building, gun smithing, wood working. SASS Regulator. NSCA super veteran.

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  1. Look at the EDGE of the fired primer. High pressures wipe out the "groove" between the case and the primer surface. Good luck, GJ
  2. Sounds like more of the "Remington is Going Out of Business" rumors that have floated around for 10 or more years. Care to specify the publication that printed that news? Exactly the same "NEWS" was floated in late 2105, early 2016. It proved to be COMPLETELY wrong then. I've seen - as recently as last spring - news articles that specifically pointed out that the STS line was NOT being changed at all. In fact, the news I've seen from Remington insiders recently say they liked the experiment they ran last year with Field and Clays shells so much, they are thinking of keeping ALL three of these target type 12 and 20 gauge loads (STS, GC, and F&C) in their catalog. Good luck, GJ
  3. That's a major oxymoron. Outlaws don't normally follow rules.
  4. I just looked at it today. I again just looked at it now. You are doing something wrong. Good luck, GJ
  5. There are SASS wide rules that say #4 is the largest you can use at any affiliated match. There are rules at several ranges that say 7 1/2 is the largest shot you can use on their ranges. One of those is Founder's Ranch, where EOT is held. A wise shooter sticks with something 7 1/2 size or smaller. Practically speaking, when all your pattern is on the surface of the shotgun target (like most matches make happen with close shotgun targets), it makes NO difference what size shot you fire. It's all going to be on target if you don't aim badly. Good luck, GJ
  6. I needed to bring my 1911 groups up and right. I quit my flinching AND firmed up my grip. That did it.
  7. Was the bore and chamber clean, or did it still have manufacturing/shipping (rust preventative) lube in it? Good luck, GJ
  8. .348 Winchester will have some recoil. Here's a quote for you - "The .348 was one of the most powerful rimmed rounds ever used in a lever action rifle" But, sounds to me like a bad batch of Winchester ammo. I would not have fired the second one of those! Good luck, GJ
  9. Longhunter Supply will be glad to color case harden it (true charcoal/bone ash color hard-case) for you. Good luck, GJ
  10. 20" barrel, or something else? Oh, "Only test fired 20 in barrel" doesn't mean what your wrote! Its was only test fired, and it has a 20" barrel!
  11. Sure does. Exactly the shell plate/pins I use. The C45S is just a cut off .45 Colt case. Good luck, GJ
  12. Not very fast, and probably hard to find holsters to carry them. But lots of style points, "Bat"!
  13. No, stains of any type will not provide protection! You have to finish with something. Oils - modified boiled linseed oils like TruOil or LinSpeed - the conventional finish for guns before 1950s. Very easy to touch up a ding, scratch or rub mark. Depending upon how you final-sand or polish an oil finish, you can get matte, semigloss or gloss shine. You won't like it if you oil until you get a mirror finish, at least not past the first ride in a gun cart at a match. Varnishes - dries faster, more fragile, will chip and ding and requires more work to touch up Polyurethane modified varnishes, spar varnish, outdoor varnish - hard finish, withstands weather best, but just about has to be removed and refinished when it gets ragged to look nice. Sprayed on then baked by factory arms makers now when they actually provide wood furniture (rather than plastic). Most cowboys use the traditional oils since we ding up guns a lot and some of us will renew the finish periodically. BTW - I have never found the combined stain/ varnish finish stuff to be something I want on a fine gun. Good luck, GJ
  14. Shortest OAL length that the toggle link guns will handle is almost completely governed by the slope angle of the cartridge return ramp on the front of the carrier. To get it to handle shorter lengths, the ramp can be filed to a shallower angle. What that does is allow a fairly short second cartridge's rim to be pushed back into the mag tube as the carrier starts to rise. The factory machines their carriers so that the minimum length is usually about 1.500" (but they don't hold that very precisely). Most replacement third party carriers have a shallower ramp angle and can handle shorter rounds. But, the limit for how far you can go with ramp adjustment - you DO NOT want to file into the cavity for the lifter arm that is in back of that ramp! As you can see from all the reports above, it is possible to adjust ramps so that you can run as short as 1.420" if you want and have the right carrier. And as you can see from the reports, not all bullets have the crimp groove in the best spot to make the round "long" so you can put light bullets in .38 spl cases and make them run. That is when you might learn that crimping in the crimp groove is not necessary if you know how to crimp into one of the driving bands! Personally, I cast a soft bullet (8 Brinell hardness) that usually has NO crimp groove, and crimp where ever I want to get the OAL that I want to run. Gives great versatility in loading. And eliminates leading at our usual chamber pressures and velocities. Good luck, GJ
  15. Yep. Dark Walnut will work on the Uberti Italian walnut. The red color of the factory stock is just stain - not the wood. But it's under a poly urethane varnish top coat, so that has to come off also. So, most pards strip the existing stain with a good gel stripper. I like Crown TuffStrip myself. Others also use the orange based CitriStrip type removers Don't Sand! The factory fits the stocks pretty closely to the metal, and heavy sanding drops the walnut below the metal surface, which is pretty evident. Strip by using a plastic "scraper" and brushes. Rinse off any chemical remains using the solvent that the stripper container specifies. Let dry. Steam out any dents you want to raise. Dry, dewhisker with plastic scrubbie pads. If you must sand, use about 180 grain paper and work very lightly. Then stain. I use Minwax oil type stain due to their wide color ranges and good penetration. I like a "touch" of red in a stock, so I put a little "redwood" or "mediterranean Red" in the cup with Walnut stain, and wipe that on. Let dry and finish with your favorite oil, varnish, etc. I like TruOil brand linseed for it's quicker drying. Hand rub that in and apply 3+ coats to fill the pores and get to a surface finish that is solid. Good luck, GJ
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