Back 40 #23910 L Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 I have just acquired an old Ruger 3 screw, .38/.357 in it's original box. What makes this gun somewhat unique is that it contains a kit for replacing the transfer bar, complete with instructions. I am assuming that this is the way Ruger originally started folks to change out to the transfer bar and then had folks send in the guns. Does anyone have an info on this? Also, does it make the gun work more? Thanks in advance, "40" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Rider Rudy Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 Of what i had heard, eas you sent in your gun and they put transfer bar and new hammer in. But sent old parts back with gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Canyon Kid #43974 Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 Your 3 screw is worth a lot more if you reinstalled the original parts and tossed the transfer bar parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 In the 1960's all one had to do was call Ruger and they would mail the transfer bar kit. I still have my kit in the box, never installed, for a Convertible Single Six Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex M Rugers #6621 Posted December 26, 2015 Share Posted December 26, 2015 You sure about that , John Boy. They didn't start the new models until 1973. I don't remember any change-overs before that. Rex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trailrider #896 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Sounds like the previous/original owner either ordered the transfer bar kit or had Ruger install it, and then re-installed the original parts in the gun. Ruger came up with the transfer bar design after being sued by someone who didn't know or ignored the "five beans in the wheel" practice for sixguns with Colt's mechanisms in them. For those unfamiliar with "five beans in the wheel", you load any Colt's mechanism sixgun as follows: Pull the hammer to half-cock. Open the loading gate and turn the cylinder slowly enough to observe that the gun is UNloaded. Load one round, turn the cylinder PAST THE NEXT CHAMBER, LEAVING IT EMPTY. Load one round each in the next four chambers. Pull the hammer to full cock, then carefully lower the hammer to the full forward position! Check to see that the chamber under the hammer is NOT loaded. Note: This will be more difficult in the older Ruger Flat Top guns as they had recessed rim cuts in the cylinder. You can still see them if you look carefully through the side of the cylinder/frame gam with light behind the gun. When doing this, be sure the gun is pointed downrange! Safe Shooting! Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year! Your obedient servant, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chili Ron Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Howdy, First Congrats on getting one fine single action. afaik it was sent to the factory, the transfer bar installed and it was returned with the original parts removed. Those parts, that kit is worth about $100 give or take. And yes it adds to the value of the ruger. Now its possible that the owner removed the transfer bar and put the orig parts back. If the orig parts are back in the conversion kit you have left is probably worth nothing. Why would anyone pay for one when they can send their three screw in and have it done for free? I doubt ruger would convert a second time but who knows? Ive never seen or shot a converted ruger that has been deconverted if that is even a word. If you are in N Illinois sometime I would like to see it and or shoot it. You would be welcome to see or shoot an original of course. Ive never converted a ruger and have no interest in it. If you want to talk pm me your phone number and I have time this coming week. I would like a LOT more details. HNY CR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back 40 #23910 L Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 NO, this gun was never converted. Ruger sent the transfer kit to the owner, along with printed instructions, and the owner never did convert it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boothill Bandit, SASS# 48598 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Not that this is the correct forum for it, but I know of 4 3-screw .357/7-1/2" (3 of them are pre-prefix) w/white gunfighter grips that are looking for a new home. They have never even seen a picture of a transfer bar conversion. Boothill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Canyon Kid #43974 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 I had 4 Ruger 3 screws, I ordered kits for 2 of them never installed them. Then I saw an offer to call Ruger and they would provide a shipping box to send in the guns to have the kits installed by the factory. I never sent them in. A couple of years later the old model Vaqueros came out with transfer bars already installed and the new model Blackhawks also had the transfer bars installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Canyon Kid #43974 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 If you go to this web page and click on revolvers do a search and you will find more info on the 3 screw transfer bar issue than you ever wanted to know: http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/index.php?sid=f9951f56ac1c46fbd60d57970a55319f Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chili Ron Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Howdy, I never heard of sending the converstion kit out to the customer. There is always more to learn I guess. Best CR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Cap, SASS Life #14184 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Back 40 (ol pard), The transfer bars are the only real problems with any current Ruger SAA. They break at the wrist just when you are shooting a clean match. Transfer bars are the brainchild of Ruger Engineers to make their guns "Lawyer Proof" from dummy's that load six with a live one under the hammer. The (original) "3-screw " Ruger is the best SSA revolvers ever mass produced, PERIOD !!!!!! They go bang every time, if you don't put the transfer bars in the guns and load them like they are supposed to be loaded. (5 in a row)! The load one, skip one style causes you to pull the hammer back (over a live round), which under SASS rules (and common sense) is illegal. If your thumb should slip off that hammer as you pull it back over that live round, what do you think is going to happen ???? You can end up with an accidental discharge into the loading table - and it happens way too often. With a transfer bar installed, simply back turn the cylinder into stop-lock and then side examine. Without a transfer bar, you are already at 1/2 cock, simply pull the hammer back slightly and let it back down onto the empty chamber. Also, Back 40. Ol pard, I mentioned (ORIGINAL) 3-screw Ruger, because if your 3-screw is an original 3-screw built back in the 1950's, you may well have a VERY VALUABLE collectors item. Let me explain a minute - - - Back then (the 50's) Bill Ruger was sued by Colt for Design Infringement ! Meaning, Bill's first 3-screws had backstraps and trigger-guards on them that were exactly like those on a Colt SAA, where you could install a set of Colt grips on your new 3-screw Ruger. OK, to settle the law suit, Bill agreed to change the design of the 3-screw grip frame to what we see so much of, even with the Ruger Vaquero in all calibers and the Single Six, 32's and 22's Problems with that change plagued Ruger for years and years, as more and more buyers became frustrated with the barrels bring in an upward angle as compared to a Colt. That upward angle caused the grip to rotate under recoil and the impact of bullets to raise on target in an upward angle causing unexplained misses on the 4th or 5th round fired. I explained all this at annual SASS Conventions in my Gunsmithing Simplified seminars. The backstrap problem continued until they finally brought out the New Model Ruger Vaquero with a grip frame like the Italian "Clones" of the COLT. So, if you grab a Colt in one hand and an old Ruger (Vaquero, 3-screw or Single Six) in the other hand, you will see immediately what I am talking about. The barrels of the Ruger's will be up much higher than the Colt or Clones. Ron Power, of Power Customs manufactures a great CNC'd backstrap and triggerguard to cure this problem with the old Ruger's. However, this is not just a simple $225 per gun change out for the old style Ruger's. To install the CNC set from Power Custom takes a LOT of patience (and NOT for the faint of heart) to be fitted properly, so you can install new Colt grips on a Ruger Vaquero, 3-screw or Single Six. Sounds like a lot of trouble when all that should need to be done is to order a New Model Vaquero replacement grip frame - - right ? Remember what I said back at the start of this rambling on and on and on ??? "Lawyer Proofing" Look me up at Winter Range and I will hand you a matched set of "COUGERS" , they are Rugers's turned into Colts, with no transfer bars and the CORRECT grip frames. For what it's worth - - - "Coyote Cap " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back 40 #23910 L Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 Thanks Cap and to all of you for your input!! Greatly appreciated. BTW Cap, when you hand me a matched set of Cougers, do I get to keep them? See you at WR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Canyon Kid #43974 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 I wish very old 3 screws were worth a lot of money. I have managed to lay my hands on 3 first year of production Blackhawks. Two of these were a friend's main match guns since before I got them and they had been used for CAS a lot and had much blueing worn off. I continue to shoot these when I am shooting in Wa state. The other is in good condition and it rests in the safe. I have one other flat top a couple of years later in the safe with it. I had many 3 screws but have given most to my two boys for their safes. When I purchased the two main match guns, someone had replaced the grips with so called cheap plastic grips. When I got home, and took them off I found they were real ivory. Called my friend and tried to give him back the guns, give him the grips, etc, but no go. He said when he purchased them the gent he got them from, told him the grips were cheap plastic ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Cap, SASS Life #14184 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Back 40, I made the mistake of offering "Ugly" the use of those matched "Cougers" for one SASS match. I was lucky to get them back ! They looked like they were glued to his gunfighter paws! Gold Canyon Kid, Check those flat tops out REAL GOOD pard as you may have a gold mine in your safe! "Cap" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Canyon Kid #43974 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Back 40, I made the mistake of offering "Ugly" the use of those matched "Cougers" for one SASS match. I was lucky to get them back ! They looked like they were glued to his gunfighter paws! Gold Canyon Kid, Check those flat tops out REAL GOOD pard as you may have a gold mine in your safe! "Cap" If I did that I might feel bad when I shoot 2 of them. All 3 are 1st year Blachawks per Ruger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 The load one, skip one style causes you to pull the hammer back (over a live round), which under SASS rules (and common sense) is illegal. For what it's worth - - - "Coyote Cap " Au contraire, that is THE way to load them. Or I've been doing it illegally for 30 years. NOT! As you load the 5th round, the 1st round you loaded is just slightly past the hammer, while the rim on the "uphill" side is under the hammer, the primer is actually not. Then, as you bring the gun to full cock the cylinder rotates less than one full chamber, (you've already started the cylinder rotating when you brought it to half-cock), bringing the empty chamber directly under the hammer... where you pull the trigger, either lowering the hammer or letting it fall. This is neither unsafe, nor is it "dry-firing"... it is simply the last step in loading the Colt, Colt clone or "Old Model Ruger" safely to place an empty chamber under the lowered hammer. I just checked this on my Colt. If bringing the hammer to full cock after loading the 5th and final round, doesn't complete the rotation of the cylinder, your hand or the ratchet is worn and needs replacing or correction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Throckmorton,23149 Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Griff has it right , EXCEPT for this .." where you pull the trigger, either lowering the hammer or letting it fall." You are ASKING for a negligent discharge when you just let it fall..... I've shot Ruger om's for years and would never let the hammer fall on the supposedly empty chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I've got flat top #215 Just bragging Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pit Bull Tex Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I have two 3 screw rugers.When the transfer bars first came out I contacted ruger about having them put in.They sent me boxes to send them in but I never did.For years I would get a letter from Ruger about sending them in but never did,after ten or so years they stopped sending letters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Cap, SASS Life #14184 Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 This post by "Back 40" is about the old 3-screw Ruger and a transfer bar kit sent from Ruger in an effort to "Lawyer Proof", thousands of old Ruger's I apologize for my remark about the dangers of the load one - skip one style loading in 3-screw Ruger's and Ruger's with transfer bars. It was not my intention to change the subject, but to clarify (unknown) positives with very early (and very valuable) low serial numbered 3-screws. In the future, I will concentrate my remarks on the true subject of the post. "Coyote Cap" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 This post by "Back 40" is about the old 3-screw Ruger and a transfer bar kit sent from Ruger in an effort to "Lawyer Proof", thousands of old Ruger's I apologize for my remark about the dangers of the load one - skip one style loading in 3-screw Ruger's and Ruger's with transfer bars. It was not my intention to change the subject, but to clarify (unknown) positives with very early (and very valuable) low serial numbered 3-screws. In the future, I will concentrate my remarks on the true subject of the post. "Coyote Cap" No need. In the case of Rugers with transfer bars, you're entirely correct... do NOT load one, skip one, load four... I'd never handled a transfer bar Ruger SA until I started cowboy shooting, (always having had OMs), and the first time I saw a guy simply flip open his loading gate and start loading away I almost freaked out... ol Hipshot had to calm me down and 'splain things to me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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