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Anyone with an open mind to discuss the Stevens 311 action


Red Cent

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As some of you know the "fix" for a 311 does not apply to all of them. I have a nice old 311 that hs been in the safe for a loooonnnnng time. I checked my calendar the other day and found I could work it in. Well, past the lockup bar, the finger that sticks back in the top of the action, what have you done to make the 311 an easy gun to shoot, drop the barrels by themselves, stay open enough to load two, and close.

I just finished a mod that cocks the hammers at the top of the stroke. Factory has the hammers cocked about 2/3 the way of the cocking cycle and maintains pressure on the barrels. 'Course, a little lighter hammer springs work with some polishing.

I can now take one hand, thumb the release, and with a very small flip, cock the hammers, and the barrels stay down. I will find out Saturday if life is good.

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You changed the timing to make the hammers cock later in the stroke right? There is an updated cocking lever and hammer set available for some of the older ones. I had to replace mine because the hammer would sometimes move past the cocking lever and bind the action up, the new lever and hammers make this impossible. I have also switched the triggers on mine to make the rear one easier to get to. Once you learn to work around that lug between the barrels while loading it they are really a pretty decent gun.

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I recall that the magazine "Trails End" had a very detailed writeup on the 311's back about a dozen years ago. They are defunct, but maybe someone has a copy they could scan for you.

 

Also some real good info on Marauder's pages from Driftwood Johnson, could be the same info I referenced at first.

 

http://marauder.homestead.com/Stevens311.html

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Thanks guys. I wasn't aware of the OTC cocking lever.

 

I have diminished the locking stud that protrudes from the barrel but with plenty of steel left. It is now a slim, rounded finger pointing at the shooter. I dropped the gun the other day and broke that finger off :). Practicing with dummies (shells) I find I can load this about as quick as a Spartan that I modded a few years ago and that ain't too bad.

 

By removing metal under the locking lever, I need to watch how forceful I open the barrels. Not necessary though. Just a small flip.

 

By removing metal from under the cocking lever arm, the barrels travel more to raise the lever to its orginal position to cock. Maybe it will be like the other poster stated. Maaybe she will lock up. After the match Saturday, I'll put it through the paces and see what happens.

 

Thanks again.

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Goody, I went to Marauder's site. That is the fix I was referring to in my first post. Their are two kinds of levers that pull up the cocking lever when you break the action open. Mine hs the part that is the same s the fix. Doesn't work that well. Thank you anyway.

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I have found that leaving the barrels at 24 inches really helps with opening and hanging open ...

The 311 isn't a bad gun for this game ,,, just DE-Horn the top locking Lug a pratice feeding the shells I have one ine 16 ga. I use as back-up for my hammered Double in 16 ga. a Husky Under lever ...

I had one in 12 last fall I sold to a pard that was Shotgun poor ,,,, Unlike me with 7 CAS Guns ....

I have Not found it nessary to reduce the springs on any of the guns I have owned (6) Just re-shaping the cocking bars ,,,De-horn the Top lug and give them a serious cleaning and lube them up right ...

 

 

 

Jabez Cowboy

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I have found that leaving the barrels at 24 inches really helps with opening and hanging open ...

The 311 isn't a bad gun for this game ,,, just DE-Horn the top locking Lug a pratice feeding the shells I have one ine 16 ga. I use as back-up for my hammered Double in 16 ga. a Husky Under lever ...

I had one in 12 last fall I sold to a pard that was Shotgun poor ,,,, Unlike me with 7 CAS Guns ....

I have Not found it nessary to reduce the springs on any of the guns I have owned (6) Just re-shaping the cocking bars ,,,De-horn the Top lug and give them a serious cleaning and lube them up right ...

 

 

 

Jabez Cowboy

 

De-Horn, explain please. ;)

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I nice way to get them to stay open is to tie a brick to the end of the barrel. Then tie a slightly lighter brick to the buttstock. Then make sure that you have the action open as you throw it over the side of the boat into the water. But that's just one mod I'm sure there are others. And yes I'm being very closed minded when it comes to the 311 :D/> . I'm sure Red Cent will forgive me.

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I nice way to get them to stay open is to tie a brick to the end of the barrel. Then tie a slightly lighter brick to the buttstock. Then make sure that you have the action open as you throw it over the side of the boat into the water. But that's just one mod I'm sure there are others. And yes I'm being very closed minded when it comes to the 311 :D/>/>/>/>/> . I'm sure Red Cent will forgive me.

No bricks needed on mine, if they are done right they can work pretty well.

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Goody, I went to Marauder's site. That is the fix I was referring to in my first post. Their are two kinds of levers that pull up the cocking lever when you break the action open. Mine hs the part that is the same s the fix. Doesn't work that well. Thank you anyway.

 

 

If you have reduced that cocking piece there under the barrels there is a good possibility that when you shoot it then try to open it the firing pins will still be imbedded in the primers making it difficult to open. Look for drag marks on the primers if it's stiff to open. The problem shows up most with Win AA's but less with the harder Remington STS primers.

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Guest Cinch, SASS#29433

I nice way to get them to stay open is to tie a brick to the end of the barrel. Then tie a slightly lighter brick to the buttstock. Then make sure that you have the action open as you throw it over the side of the boat into the water.

 

Then when ya go get it out of the lake in 2 years the damn thing will still be on face and will still shoot!

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I mill a little from the ledge on the hammers where the cocking lever contacts them. This allows the barrels to clear the frame when the hammers return to rest on the sears. Replacing the springs with some lighter ones is also helpful.

 

CR

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Hey Steve. I took metal off the bottom front end of the cocking lever. Didn't touch the hammers or the screw hammer stops. I did place rp springs for the hammers.

 

When the barrel is starting to open the "lever" that is pushed under the cocking lever starts to raise the cocking lever. But the lever has been reduced in height from the bottom. The barrels have to move more in their radius until it contacts the lever. And it cocks right at the top of the stroke. Easily.

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It will if you remove too much. The opening of the barrels begins the retraction of the firing pins, and by delaying the retraction, you leave the pins in contact with the spent primers longer, so you really can't get it all. I also remove some material from the cocking plunger (same effect), but have become cautious after removing too much once. This allowed the plunger to slip past the cocking lever under match conditions when trying to run fast and applying more opening pressure than you'd get in normal operation. If you can slam it open after removing material from the plunger, then you haven't removed too much! The combination of less spring and less travel has worked for me on the 3 I've done. as with most mods, there are trade offs. Winchester primers tend to stick in any double more than Federals, not sure why, softer I guess. I do not load Winchester primers for my doubles. The 311 is a fun gun and sits as a backup to my TTN. And my Husky. And my Rossi. And my Stoger. My dad bought it new for $18.00 at the PX in Frankfort in 1950. The armorers at Springfield Armory replaced the plastic stock with M-14 walnut in 1960 while we were stationed there. Just gotta keep it and shoot it once in a while.

 

My personal rule "Don't start machining parts you can't replace or don't have a spare for"

 

Like most of us, I'll work on my own guns (and group efforts with buddies' guns), but am definitely NOT a gunsmith. If I need real gunsmithing, I call Spur, or Manatee, or Carty!

 

 

 

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It will if you remove too much. The opening of the barrels begins the retraction of the firing pins, and by delaying the retraction, you leave the pins in contact with the spent primers longer, so you really can't get it all. I also remove some material from the cocking plunger (same effect), but have become cautious after removing too much once. This allowed the plunger to slip past the cocking lever under match conditions when trying to run fast and applying more opening pressure than you'd get in normal operation. If you can slam it open after removing material from the plunger, then you haven't removed too much! The combination of less spring and less travel has worked for me on the 3 I've done. as with most mods, there are trade offs. Winchester primers tend to stick in any double more than Federals, not sure why, softer I guess. I do not load Winchester primers for my doubles. The 311 is a fun gun and sits as a backup to my TTN. And my Husky. And my Rossi. And my Stoger. My dad bought it new for $18.00 at the PX in Frankfort in 1950. The armorers at Springfield Armory replaced the plastic stock with M-14 walnut in 1960 while we were stationed there. Just gotta keep it and shoot it once in a while.

 

My personal rule "Don't start machining parts you can't replace or don't have a spare for"

 

Like most of us, I'll work on my own guns (and group efforts with buddies' guns), but am definitely NOT a gunsmith. If I need real gunsmithing, I call Spur, or Manatee, or Carty!

 

 

You can go to school and buy the books but real gunsmithing knowledge comes fron a series of expensive mistakes you hope to never repeat. :o

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You can go to school and buy the books but real gunsmithing knowledge comes fron a series of expensive mistakes you hope to never repeat. ohmy.gif

 

I enjoy the challenge, and I don't mind making a few mistakes on my own stuff, but I have the utmost respect for you guys with the knowledge and talent that allow you to be labeled "Gunsmith"!

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Yazzsir. I may change an ejector or extractor or polish or beadblast but I, like CR, stay in my house.

 

No one has commented on the mod. Does everyone understand where I removed metal and the consequence?

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Where did you remove the metal to delay the cocking, or does it cock immediately on opening? There are three places I can envision to delay the opening, which also allows the barrels to remain clear of the frame for loading.

1.) Cocking plunger

2.) Cocking lever at the point of contact with the hammers

3.) Hammer ledge where the cocking lever engages it.

 

Did you find another area to work on?

 

CR

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