Straight Arrow Hombre

Actually an ounce isn’t an ounce unless you’re weighing your shot charge. Since almost everyone is using a volumetric measurement, the actual weight will change with shot size. Not much but is there. That’s the reason mec sells a skeet special bar as #9 can exceed an ounce in a standard bar. But Doc Pain is spot on…for CAS it doesn’t matter

There is nothing wrong with a good cut and weld short stroke. Before the introduction of the Miroku, cut and weld rifles done by Cody and Jimmy Spurs were among the most durable options.

It’s been quite a few years, but I set one of those up for a friend of mine and it actually turned out pretty good. I don’t think the big bore 1894s were the hot mess that the early run of remlin 357s were. As far as running 44 specials, that one ran the typical magma mold 200 rnfp crimped at whatever its normal length is. Both of my jm marlins ran that bullet in special cases. Of the powders you list, I only have experience with tightgroup. 4 grains with a 200 is a good place to start and makes a great load for our game.

Since I’ve owned at least 3 from each manufacturer, I don’t have to guess or rely upon second hand information or hearsay concerning the difference between them. The Uberti rifles absolutely need aftermarket parts. They can be made to run well but they aren’t as durable as a Miroku. Any parts that are needed for a Miroku are readily available. I bought one of the first runs of Miroku 73s 13-14 years ago. As mentioned, the stroke is shorter than a factory Uberti. I also own a competition model with factory short stroke. It’s ok but not as nice as my Cowboy Carty short stroked rifle. All have been 20” round barrel short rifles so pretty similar. Deuce and Fireball have the parts needed. Carrier, firing pin extension, and maybe a lever safety/trigger spring. Everything else in the gun is usable.

I just did a basic action job on one of these for a new shooter. Longhunter one pc firing spring fit perfectly. The lever detent recess doesn’t seem to be drilled as deep so I cut a couple of coils off that spring. It ran 38s with 105’s perfect. Overall I’m impressed.

I open up my good eye as wide as possible and try to see everything at once.

Just a couple of thoughts about increasing your speed with the pistols. When you dry fire, go as fast as you possibly can for a number of runs. Set a par time and see how fast you can run ten. Then dry fire using “targets” and pay attention to your sights see how close you can get to your max speed par time. Do this regularly and see if you can close that gap and shave time from both drills. When practicing live fire, see how close you can get to your dry fire times. You should be able to cycle your pistols faster than you can acquire the targets. Use your live fire time to see where the ragged edge of hitting consistently is and back off the throttle a smidge. Paint the targets each run and see where you’re really hitting at speed.

I much prefer moose milk for use during the match. PAM or windex w/vinegar for cleanup after the match.

Pyrodex sucks for all applications. 777 3f (preferred) or 2f is the easy button for bp cartridge categories. no special bullets needed. no fillers required. An air space isn’t an issue.

Natchez currently has small and large pistol primers. Some CCI too. Don’t use the “in stock” filter.

I have one of those 1885s without a tang. The marbles sight comes with wood screws to mount the sight to the stock. It seems hokey but mine holds zero and has won a few long range events. Pre drill the wood at least the size of the screw shank to avoid splitting the wrist of the stock.

JW I’ve used a load very similar to yours except I was using a CB1100-12 wad which is similar height to your windjammer wad. I found that load lacking for some knockdown targets.

I’ve broken that spring a couple of times. Last time was was while I was loading 2022 EOT ammo a week before leaving. I conveniently discovered a Marlin magazine spring works as a replacement.

The SKB 100 is the best double for our game. Significant upgrade over a stoeger in durability and handling. The fact that the 100 was the base model makes zero difference for cowboy. The “upgrades” in the 200 and 280 don’t make a bit of difference in our game.

1885s from that era are similar to the B78 in that they don’t have a tang. At one time Lee Shaver would weld on a short tang to mount the front screw and install a threaded insert into the wood for the back screw.