Mustang Gregg Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Wood working Pards: I am going to finish some virgin laminated gunstocks (multi-colored ones) that are not walnut. I do not want to change the colors much at all. So I want a very clear finish. 1. One is yellow and green. I don't want it much darker. 2. One is red, white and blue. I don't want the white to "yellow out". Much obliged, Mustang Gregg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
South Park Sam, SASS #69085 Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Use Acrylic (solventborne or waterborne) for the clearest finish. Waterborne should not be applied over oil stain or sealer (it will most likely yellow). NON-YELLOWING PROPERTIES of common wood finishes Key: 0=very poor, 1=poor, 2=fair, 3=good, 4=very good, 5=excellent Wax (synthetic blends) = 5 Linseed Oil = 3 Oil Varnish = 2 Tung Oil = 2 Bleached Shellac = 4 Acrylic Lacquer = 5 Nitrocellulose Lacquer = 2 CAB Lacquer = 5 Vinyl Lacquer = 5 Wiping (Danish type) Oils/Varnishes = 2 Alkyd Varnish = 2 Phenolic Varnish (Spar) = 1 Polyurethane Varnish = 2 Waterborne Acrylic (not applied over oil stains or sealers) = 5 Waterborne Urethanes = 3-4 (depending on polymer mix) Conversion Varnish = 3 When coating white or light colored finishes, it is best to use finishes with a higher number. This is intended to be a guideline only. A phone call to a wood finisher that coats white lacquers or European 'whitewash' or 'pickling stain'. They will give you good direction. A lot of finishes contain color in themselves, but many will react with oxygen and light (U.V.) and discolor over time. Waterborne finishes contain Amines, which will react with vegetable oils and cause almost immediate discoloration in the finish. This is most noticeable when applied over white or light color woods and stains. If you are going to choose a waterborne finish and you have oil stains on your wood, isolate it first with an acrylic. You can get solventborne acrylics in spray cans. Krylon makes one that is easy to find. There are others out there. You can apply your waterborned finsh over the sealer once it has thoroughly dried. Many waterborne urethane (polyurethane) finishes contain acrylic as a blended polymer. This finish will tend to discolor less, but can show discoloration over light finishes and woods if the film thickness is builit up too high, or if applied over oil stains and sealers. Best wishes with your project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hacker, SASS #55963 Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Some other candidates include, spar-varnish and epoxy based finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Whiskers Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Use a water based polyurethane.It doesn't yellow.Any oil based product will.I'd suggest 3 coats with a light sanding between the 1st 2.I did made all my kitchen cabinet doors and drawer fronts in maple and wanted to keep the natural look.The water based will raise the grain,but a very light sanding between knocks the fuzz off and the 3rd coat gives it a hard finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Most anything is going to change the color of "natural" wood. What you have sounds like the ""new" color impregnated material. It is wood based but will still react to most finish products. All varnishes will yellow to an extent as will most poly finishes. Safest is clear acrylic. Water based is recommended. If you want to know what it's going to look like, wipe it lightly with denatured alcohol. What it looks like immediately after the wipe is what your going to get with acrylic. Coffinmaker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace_of_Hearts Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I have been finishing and refinishing gun stocks since 1966. Here is my advice for what it is worth. Mix 50% marine spar varnish and 50# thinner. After sanding and smoothing with the finest sandpaper (usually 400/600). Raise the grain with a damp clean cloth. Steel wool with fine steel wool when dry. Repeat at least 4 times. Apply liberal coat of thinned varnish. (Make sure to seal the inside of the stock also) Let dry. Rub with steel wool till smooth. Repeat several times depending on wood (Maple needs a lot less than walnut)to completely seal. You can tell when you have done this enough when the wood no longer absorbs the mixture. Using fingers, apply Casey's Tru-Oil finish. Very thin (almost dry) coats. Steel wool with very fine steel wool in between coats. Repeat for 20 coats for a good durable finish that will be proud to display. Any scratches or scrapes can be easily repaired with steel wool and reapplying Tru-Oil to the area. The finish will be about the same color as it would be if you rubbed the unfinished stock with a damp rag. Very time consuming but the results are outstanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustang Gregg Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 Like Mayhem says, "YOU GUYS ARE GREAT!" Much obliged, Mustang Gregg PS I may show up at a SASS shoot next spring with a red, white and blue '92! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hacker, SASS #55963 Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane Not exactly a great choice. It is an INTERIOR finish. Guns are typically used outside. While they do spend 90% or more of their lives in a safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jake1001 Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. I've used it for 25 years....great stuff lots of thin coats. Jake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Harley, #14153 Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 All finishes will bring out the colors in wood to some degree. Whatever you choose, test it on the barrel channel of your dyed stock to verify that the colors won't bleed. I use Ace of Hearts method on stocks, except I don't do the 20 coats of Tru-Oil. I stop at one or two. It creates a very durable finish that looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Flimshaw Sass# 73310 Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Seems like a lot of work for something that's going to get slammed down on a table during a stage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hacker, SASS #55963 Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Seems like a lot of work for something that's going to get slammed down on a table during a stage You could use 2 by timber for a stock and paint it white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Ron Wayne Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. I've used it for 25 years....great stuff lots of thin coats. Jake +1 just saying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustang Gregg Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 Actually many of us do not slam down our long guns. No kidding. MG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. I've used it for 25 years....great stuff lots of thin coats. Jake Tru-Oil is now banned in PRK...... http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Finishing/FinishingDetails.aspx?ProductID=e9fc9501-7a61-46c5-8e93-c13b1036016d LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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