Bison Bud

I've never had this sort of issue with either the large or the small charge bar on my 550 and I change the settings and bars rather often. As a safety and quality control issue, I do cycle the powder measure several times into an empty shell casing, then weigh the actual charge to confirm it's right before each loading session. This not only confirms the proper setting, but that the measure is feeding properly and the powder isn't clumped up etc. I think this is especially important if you leave powder in the measure for any length of time. Frankly, a little prevention goes a long way. As for your problem, I have to agree with several of the pards above that a small dap of hot glue should take care of the problem and not be much of an issue to remove when needed. However, a call to Dillon may get you a brand new charge bar, so it's up to you. Good luck and good shooting to all.

Not my main match caliber, but I do have a Marlin lever rifle and 2 old style Ruger VQ's that I shoot often when I go to my club range for recreational shooting and practice. However, I generally shoot the .44 Specials in the handguns and none of my loads are anywhere near maximum loads. Frankly, a full blown .44 Magnum is a handful, but I do keep a few around and shoot them from time to time, which really makes me appreciate the downloaded ammo. I have also used these guns for black powder matches and have done pretty well (big boom and lots of smoke). I do get some blow back in the rifle due to the straight walled cartridge and the handguns get dirty pretty quickly, but not enough to be a big problem. All in all, one of my favorite cartridges and since I cast my own 200 grain pills from scrap lead, one of the cheaper ones for me to shoot.

Startup can indeed be pricey, especially if one is starting from scratch! I guess I was lucky in that I had most of the needed firearms and a basic reloading setup for shotgun and pistol cartridges prior to starting up in Cowboy Action shooting. Anyway, I shot my first few matches with a borrowed six shooter and gunbelt, but soon made the investment in a matching pair of SAA clones and decent Mernicle double rig. However, there was still a considerable investment needed in accessories like a good gun belt, shotshell slides/belt, cowboy hat and clothes, etc. Anyway since then, I've changed just about everything and even own multiple sets of cowboy firearms, so the expense never really stops, it just got spread out over time and I'm sure this happens to most of us once the bug really bites. Was it worth it, you bet! However, my advice to the newbies would be to get started with whatever is available even if that means borrowing some equipment. While I have never really liked borrowing things, most cowboy shooters will gladly loan out backup guns, etc. This is especially true if they are looking to sell items and this approach can really help a newbie decide on just what works for them. I can't really tell you how many times I've loaned out my Marlin .357 carbine and most of those that used it also offered to buy it from me. Anyway, just get out there and shoot and things will come together for you and hopefully not break the bank in the process. Good luck and good shooting to all.

I too have always preferred the double trigger. It's what I used rabbit hunting as a kid and what I am used to using, plus as others have stated some of the reset single triggers can be picky about ammo, etc. I have owned a couple of very nice single trigger SXS's and always ended up pulling on the trigger guard for the second shoot at some point. Also, there will be those that claim one is faster than the other, but I have serious doubts that it really makes a difference in speed.

Frankly, it sounds like your on the right track. For me, live fire practice was the most effective, but these days it can get expensive fast. Frankly, just shooting matches whenever possible is probably your best overall training. However, dry fire can be effective in learning to handle the firearms, but be very careful not to learn bad habits doing so. Practice transititions between the firearms as well as cycling them and make sure that there is no live ammo anywhere near your practice area. Also be sure your not doing damage to your firearms by dry cycling them repeatedly, some guns just don't hold up to this and rimfire should never be treated in this manner. Anyway, much of this game is in your head (figuring out how to best shoot a scenario, etc) and you should practice shooting different stages and patterns whenever possible. All in all, most any practice should have a positive affect and I'm sure you will make noticable improvement with a real effort. Welcome to the fray and good luck and good shooting to all.

I could be wrong, but it is my impression that they only do the "Reverse" implant if the rotor cuff is badly damaged. Anyway, I had my right shoulder replaced with the normal implant back in 2018 and it has worked out pretty well. I do have some trouble reaching behind my back and had to install bidet attachments on my toilets to clean up afterward. Frankly, after using one, I've never been cleaner, and would not go back! As for shooting, I was back to shooting lower recoil stuff in about 4 months and was cleared to shoot whatever I wanted to shoot at about 6 months. However, it can be painful shooting my two 45/70 rifles and heavy hunting loads in my shotguns. So, I have cut back on shooting them and worked up some lighter loads for when I do shoot them. All in all, my overall shoulder pain has been significantly reduced and I can do pretty much anything I could do before the surgery with some possible exceptions. I consider the procedure a full success and I'm glad I got it done! However, I would recommend getting a second opinion and doing the therapy excercises even after you give up going to the physical therapist. Good luck to you and yours.

I know it could never happen and this is really just a jab at all the marketers out there, but I wish we could pass a law where they could only have a "Black Friday" sale on Black Friday! Frankly, I'm sick of all the early Black Friday ads and sales that start all the way back in August and run through the New Year's Holiday. Can't they find another reason to have a sale this time of year? It really is getting annoying, at least to me! Comments?

As with most everything, it depends! Keeping both eyes open does indeed give better depth perception and can be an advantage. However, as others have already stated, I'm basically right handed and left eye dominant which does throw a bit of a stick in the spokes. Back in my competitive trap shooting days, everyone told me that I had to keep both eyes open, but it just didn't work for me. So, shooting right handed, I simply closed the dominant left eye and I really did quite well overall doing this. When I started shooting CAS, I tried shooting the long guns left handed and got reasonably good doing so, but I was always more comfortable and quicker shooting them right handed by closing the left eye and still do it that way. As for the handguns, I use the dominant left eye for both guns when shooting gunfighter. I am so left eye dominant that I simply need to squint down the right eye and the left eye takes over and I've had no problems shooting the hand guns with either hand doing so. So, as stated in my opening line, it really depends on the shooter, their dominant eye, and what actually works for them. Good luck and good shooting to all.

The older, original VQ's were indeed a bit bigger. So, I guess the answer would be that "it depends." However, the difference isn't a lot and the older model could fit in a newer model holster, but it would probably be pretty snug. It would mostly depend on how snug the holsters are with the newer VQ's and if tight, using them with the old models may stretch them out a bit making the new models fit a bit looser as well. Anyway, I have a set of holsters that I use with both old model VQ's and my USFA-SAA's (which should be about the same size as the new model VQ's) and have found them to be serviceable with both. Sorry I don't have a more definitive answer for you. Good luck and good shooting to all.

I don't really have experience with loading any of the cartridges mentioned, but I have used 5744 in my 45/70 loads with good results. Being an extruded/pelleted powder, I would think that it is best suited for larger rifle cartridges, but if you've used it successfully with the smaller cartridges mentioned, I can't argue with the results. In any case, I'd think that the Red Dot you already have should work quite well in all the cartridges mentioned. Good luck and good shooting to all.

I honestly think that the advantage of very light loads in this game is way overblown and that some folks take this concept to the extremes! Yes, a light target type load is appropriate rather than a full blown or plus "P" factory load. However, and at least in the case of the .38 Special, even the factory loads are quite manageable if nothing else is available. Frankly, the true beauty of "rollin' your own" is the ability to taylor your loads to your intended purpose and to the individual guns and this can vary quite a bit. Loading the .38 Special a bit long to feed better in your rifle is a common practice and is quite effective and your right about not being able to tell much difference in a 125 grain and 105 grain in the rifle rounds. I personally see no problem with loading different rifle and revolver rounds, as long as you can easily tell the difference when loading. You might be able to tell a slight difference in the handgun loads between these two bullet weights, but it too will probably be a small difference overall. The real key is to load enough propellant to get a complete and consistent burn, especially with the lighter bullet weights. This to will help to prevent squib loads as well and should give you enough power factor to knock down properly calibrated knock down targets as well. All in all, it's up to you and some experimentation will be required to make sure your loads work well in your particular firearms and another consideration should be point of impact verses point of aim and this too can vary quite a bit from gun to gun. So, at least in my opinion it's best to load what works best in your firearms, then learn to shoot that load, you'll be faster in the long run and have fewer ammo problems overall. Good luck and good shooting to all.

If the cartridge on the left was crimped with the Lee Factory Crimp Die, then it was not properly adjusted. The almost flat band of the crimp indicates that the die is way too low and needs to be backed off until the crimp looks similar to the one on the right hand cartridge. It should simply roll the case edge into the crimp groove Good luck and good shooting to all.