Bison Bud

At this point, I wouldn't be too picky. Any primer is better than no primer even if you have to reinstall the original hammer springs to get consistent ignition! I agree that historically the Federals have been the softest and most reliable, but I've loaded virtually every kind available over the years and had very few misfires with any of them. I currently have a decent supply of CCI large pistol primers on hand, but bought them at least 4 years ago and doubt that they are the new production that is supposed to be more sensitive. However, the fact that they even stated that they have been improved shows that the older ones were harder than they needed to be, so any move to improve that has to be a good thing for those with lighter hammer springs. Anyway, my point is that if CCI primers become available and you have the need, then I'd jump on them before they are gone. Personally, I still have enough to wait for prices and supplies to stabilize a bit more and plan to wait and see how things shake out, but I can't hold out forever either! Good luck and good shooting to all.

You probably get more exposure from the primers we use than while casting. Inhalation is the primary exposure hazard with lead, although some can be absorbed through the skin, it is very small in comparison to the inhalation danger. Frankly, the lead staphinate in the primers is very easy (almost unavoidable) to inhale while shooting and is also a danger in the vibratory brass cleaners we use. However, good ventilation is a must when casting and try not to overheat the pot as that will cause more vaporization as well. I generally cast outside on the back patio and still use a fan to move the air from the pot away from me. No eating or smoking during casting sessions and as other have already mentioned, washing your hands is a must before doing so. In fact, a full body shower and change of clothes, after a casting session would be a good thing if your really concerned about your exposure level. Good luck and good shooting to all.

Mr Spade is correct about the newer AA hulls being a two piece design now. I much preferred the original one piece hulls and they did last quite a bit longer. However, in either case reloading them just once would be a waste. Black powder loads may be a different story as they do tend to get scorched, but I've loaded smokeless at least a dozen times without issues. Try not to mix the two hull designs as they do have a bit different load specs, especially with wad spacing. I generally sort them by using a flashlight, (the two piece hulls have a cup installed in the bottom that shows up well with the flashlight) but I am now down to pretty much two piece hulls anyway. If your going to reload them just once, then I'd be glad to give you a fair price for them as twice fired!

Generally speaking, you should be okay with the .38 special load in .357 Mag brass unless the original .38 load is very light to start with. The extra volume in the .357 case does have an effect and a really light load may not completely burn, get really sooty, or even stick a bullet in the longer barrel. All in all, it would be good to check the .357 load data for your choice of powder and if you have to bump the charge up a bit to meet the minimum listed load, then I would recommend doing so.

You didn't say what length it is currently, but I looks like a 26" field gun. If so, and especially if new, I'd leave it as is. You can always change your mind and cut it later if you decide you really need to do so. I've shot a 26" Miroku SXS for years and never had any issues moving around props, etc. The so called advantage of cutting it down are greatly over-exaggerated, at least in my opinion. Good luck and good shooting to all.