Bitterroot Jake, SASS #9532

When I first had this problem I took a 45 caliber bore brush and scrubbed the chamber using a military grade bore cleaner. Tried it again, it did work better but still was way too hard open and close, I repeated the cleaning several more time with little or no improvement. I may plug the barrel just ahead of the chamber and fill it with Butch's Bore Shine and let it soak for about 48 hours and scrub it again and see if there is any improvement.

Thanks for all the suggestions and info. I tried everything suggested except trying factory ammo, no one within 50 miles had any 38-40 ammo of any kind in stock. I had the same issue with Remington,Winchester and Starline brass. Did not matter if was a loaded or a sized empty case. I then took one of each band of case and removed .oo15 off the rim and resized them and they chamber and extract easily .

I took .0025 off the bottom of the die today. Will try it when i get home. I have loaded for several other guns with them with no problem. Being i have had them for 20+ year i do t think sending them back is a viable idea. I did trim several cases but the results were the same. My try factory ammo if this fails. Only problem is its very hard to get around my neck of the woods.

About 20 years ago I bought a fairly nice old Winchester Highwall in 38WCF (38-40 Win.). I shot it some over the next few months, then put in the safe and haven't shot it since till a couple days ago.. My first loads were in my old Remington brass with .402 cast bullets, the action was almost impossible to close, after firing rounds it took a lot of force to open but the empty case extracted with no problem, loaded some more up with .401 bullets with the same results. I had two boxes of new Starline brass so i opened one up and resized a few round (using Lee dies) , tried clambering the empty cases. It was still very difficult to close and open the action. I don't remember have this problems when I shot it the first time. I then thoroughly cleaned the chamber and tried it again. Better but still very difficult. Anyone have any ideas? Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. (As a side note, i kept 20 rounds in a two circle at 60 yards with a fairly stiff crosswind)

Some one needs these more than me, already have 8 SAA in 45 that i rarely shot, gone to shooting frontierman all the time now.

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Rooster I like odd and unusual stuff. You think these are rare gun you should try to find the ammo for them. It's a bit tricky but you can make it from 45 Colt brass but you have to be real careful expanding the neck up to 55 caliber. Bitterroot

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I have for sale a pair of Ruger SASS Vaqueros, 5.5" SS in 45 Colt. These are new in the origanal case with all paper work. Plastic cylinder rings have never been removed. . I am not interested in any trades at this time. $1525.00 shipped and insured to your FFL.

Then scheduled time for the long range side matches at the the Kentucky state shoot have been changed, hopefully for the better. Long range side matches will be on Thursday, May 2nd, with Rifle claliber lever action and single shot rifle beginning at 8:00 AM and ending at 11:30 AM. Pistol and Pistol caliber lever acttion rifle will begin at 12:30 PM and end at 4:00 PM. Rifle caliber matches will be shot at approximately 400 yards, 6 shots with a 5 minute time limit to shoot all 6 shoots. Pistol will be 6 rounds at 50 yards, Lever action rilfle will be 10 rounds at 100 yards. How winners will be determined in case of ties has not been decidedat at this time. If this schedule works out as I hope it will also be used at Black Gold

On the Uberti double set trigger you set the triggers with the rear trigger, when the front trigger is pulled it releases the rear trigger which is "set", as the rear trigger moves back to the forward position an arm on the trigger moves upward hitting bottom of the sear, moving it up and releasing the hammer. The arm on the rear trigger was not hitting the sear hard enough to dis-engage it from the trigger. This evening I removed the sear spring and lightened it and now will release as it should( had to remove the spring and lighten it several times before it worked). This was suggested to me by the gunsmith who does work for Cimarron. If you look on Cimarron's web site in the parts section , look at the diagram of the double set triggers and you will see what I'm talking about. Thanks for all the responses

i had thought of that. I removed the screws but the problem is still there. I removed the trigger assemly, tried it again by manully tripping the trigger by hand, still seemed way too hard. reintalled the trigger group and tried it without the side plate screws in, still did not work.

I started to do some dryfire practice with Ubiberti Highwall {has double set triggers} a couple days ago but when I pulled the trigger the Hammer did not fall. tried several times with same result, i pulled the butt stock off and found nothhing loose or broken. I cocked the hammer, set the triggers, puled the trigger and they functioned like it was supposed to except when the rear trigger hit the sear it did not trip the hammer. It seems to me that the trigger is not hitting the sear with enough force to disengage it from the trigger notch. I can push the rear trigger forward it it will disengage the sear and the hammer will fall, but it seems to take way too much force to do so. Any thoughts or suggestion as to what the problem might be and the cause? Thanks in advacnce for any and all suggestiions.

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TT, if you c&b are Pietta i also have 4 extra cylinders you can use.