Marauder SASS #13056

As far as I know, the Chinese guns were all solid frames. If that is the case, their tube's probably would not work for a take-down 97. I don't know who makes the new tubes for Numrich, but I would try one of those. Used tubes can have a lot of wear since they are not thick steel.

Although alcohol will work, it dries out the leather a great deal and removes important "oils." So most leather workers I know do not recommend it. You do not need to soak the leather in water, just get it wet. The sprays for setching seem to work well too. Just don't over stretch or the shells will fall out. You see that a lot.

If the threads are good, a god smith may be able to reform the tube. You may be able to do it using either metal or even wood for a form, but you have to be careful of the threats. If it doesn't work, order a new tube as mentioned.

I too was surprised to see that temperatures about 40 degrees and below lead to erratic reports on many lighter loads. I had thought that the temperature would have had to be lower before impacting the loads. Live and learn.

Thanks! Merry Christmas to all!

That would add quite a bit of cost to the gun as you may know. But many smiths could change the barrel but would probably have to craft a new tube. Is the gun for hunting?

The chambers are all made for the shorter roll crimp shells. The forcing cone allows them to be shot safely, but you will notice more felt recoil unless the chamber and forcing cone is extended to modern standards.

It was probably made in 1906 http://marauder.homestead.com/Model97sn.html The 16 gauges are not as common and many really enjoy them.

Definitely have her test the shotguns. The recoil of the Stoeger can be a problem for many due of the drop of the stock and the slightly lighter weight. Some have no problem with it, but my bride and a few others hated them, even with recoil reducers, padded stock, lighter loads, etc. If that is the case, contact Johnny as mentioned for a slicked up Baikel. The external hammer guns are fun, but a bit more challenging for someone to start, slower for practically all of us, and they are heavier, if that matters.

Click Bang dropped out due to family and work commitments. Yup, we miss him.

Amazing...

Check for proper fit, then change to a lighter spring.

Clays will work, but the velocities will be low since it is a fast powder and gets the pressure up easily. I have used it but it doesn't work as well in a semi-auto often times. "Medium speed pistol powders" work best for 9mm. Such as Unique, WW 231, AA #%, AA #7, Universal, etc. Titegroup is a surprising powder that works well with 9mm, but you may notice a little more recoil and louder bang. But it is worth a try as so many top shooters are happy with it. And evidently Clean shoot works very well as Widder has shown.

First, the weasel worded lie: If they were actually concerned about safety and security, they would know that the incident was a freak "accident". And that true safety and security requires arms. Or are they providing armed security for us? Then saying essentially "we don't give a damn what you think and you won't really do anything about it anyway." Boy, I see they really want my business!

Good advice - Rugers, a 73 Rifle and a good shotgun. And as you have noticed it is best to buy the gun slicked up from a good smith. Don't forget that good leather is also vital. A set up by folks such as Kirkpatrick, Mernicle and some relatively new or local folks such as Doc Nopper make great competition leather. You want the good stuff so the only limits are your own - not having to worry if the guns will work or the holster will close up, etc. Go to a shoot and ask around as a final check before buying. As to SxS or 97, either can be really fast. Many of the top shooters now use SxS shotguns. Generally an SKB SxS. If you are strong, you can also use a heavier gun such as a Baikel that is well tuned. Some of the top still us a 97. The techniques for shotgun have evolved to where there is practically no difference between the pump and SxS. Some find they fumble less with one or the other. The 97 is slightly more complex design so it will need just a little more maintenance but can run well and fast for over a year before a part replacement is needed. All of our guns will need a little maintenance after shooting a bunch like we do. A spring here, an ejector there, etc. Welcome to the fun!!!

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=54635.0

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?138965-which-bottom-pour-melting-pot-is-best-and-why

Just curious, have you contacted Lee about this? They are normally pretty good about working with you. Then you can save some $ and get another unit more to your liking as well.

Better safe than sorry. So Yes. Why risk it since it is a well known problem. While the part is out, either try the JB weld fix or talk with a pard that can braze or silver solder or ?

What Larsen said! When you look at the original design, it becomes obvious they should never have went to a weak little bent tab to be the cartridge stop.

Actually, back in the 1980's the lowest weight lead bullet i could find for 38's was 138 grain by one company in Ohio. Essentially all lead bullets were either 148 wad-cutter or 158 grain or a little larger. There were beginning to be lighter self defense bullets as promoted by Hi-val in Indiana, but they were pioneers. I think it was in the late or mid-1990's before 125 grain lead bullets were common - and those were initially from 9 mm molds. So, Thanks, SASS for the great fun I've had!

With rank scoring, it can be like in a football game as to the impact of a problem. Say that two teams are nearly equal. Your team fumbles on your 10 yard line which resulted in the opponent quickly scoring. The opponent also fumbled, but on you 30 yard line. And you were able to defend that distance better. Or a gunfight where it is at more distance with barriers. Both folks miss some. and it doesn't matter too much. In another gunfight, it is up close with no barriers. One miss may and that fumble was fatal.... But Bud points out a weakness in that if you are competing towards the bottom of the bunch. You are being beat a little by your pard, then he screws up and gets a P and a MS. But since you are low on the board, that doesn't result in many rank points lost at all. So you still lose. His suggestion would largely improve that. I lost first place in my category by one rank point but was 1 second faster. But I realized that slight fumble on a fast stage did me in. I was beaten fair and square.

Bud, I agree with your analysis and proposed solution. You have highlighted one of the two major issues with rank scoring and it would be a great improvement as you have noted.