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Marauder SASS #13056

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Everything posted by Marauder SASS #13056

  1. You are right to be concerned. But waiting until they are 18 would normally mean they won't be shooting. And our experience is that their radio/ear pbuds are generally a greater danger. Here is some info for the standard loads which are much hotter than we normally shoot (most of us.) https://www.m1911.org/loudness.htm This site lists the threshold of pain at 120 or so, but most now list it as 140 db for whatever reason. We generally shoot lighter loads, so 38 Special would normally be about like 140 db or even less for the shooter. Often the 22 pistols are about the same level or higher than some 38 pistols. Remember that most sound levels are measure 1 foot from the barrel and are significantly higher than being behind the pistol and certainly the long guns. The longer barrels of the rifle and shotguns give further protection. So with reasonable ear protection of 25 to 30 db, the kids should be fine. But as you say, I would limit them from exposure to full load 44 and 45 pistols. Lighter loaded 45 rifles can be as low as 100 db, but the heavy boomers can more easily cause damage. There are some folks on the wire more up to date on sound levels that may be about to help us out more.
  2. About the lowest I know of in standard powders (Clays - whatever it is designated down there) is 12.5 grains in a 12 gauge with 7/8 oz shot with a Winchester/Claybuster grey wad. In colder weather you may be 13 grains. It really is not worth the few pennies to try to shoot with anything lighter. As to 20 gauge, go with 3/4 or 7/8 oz lead the WAA20 or equivalent wad with Winchester AA or Remington hulls and stry 10 or 11 grains of Universal. As you may know, 20 gauge works better with a little slower powder. The Original Lumpy may help out with some great Unique loads, but they generally need a little more powder.
  3. What Goody & Colorado said. You could also ask at your local club if they have a top smith in your area they would recommend as an alternate. But Boomstick is one of the very bet!
  4. https://wheelergunworks.weebly.com/uploads/4/2/7/2/42723859/light_primer_hits.pdf
  5. As Grizzly Dave said. But some of the horse/cow designs were based on longer barrels and to our surprise when a shorter carbine was tried, they were much less stable or even possible to use safely. I discovered this with my first night shoot when I put my carbine onto the horse and the barrel just kept going down. It caused us to reexamine the "horse" and saw it was entirely too easy to have a problem with a short barrel. On some, we had to add thickness (2X4) to the forward part so they could safely handle both carbines and longer barrels. But such props are fine and fun but shooters cannot be as casual with them as they would a table. So we finally just cut off the cop and mounted tables on ours. But others still use them so it is good to know folks need to be careful around horses - some can be skittish
  6. As a "general rule", the faster the powder, the sharper the recoil for the same velocity. So I find titegroup to be an excellent powder but it has a louder bark and snappier recoil. I found 2.5 grains of Clays to work well with 105 grain bullets. I had to increase powder for 90 grain but it has been years since I used them. With the powder increase to get reliability, the felt recoil was about like the 105's and the 90 grain. The softest recoil for me was Unique since it is a relatively slower pistol powder. I'll have to check my data for low end loads. Perhaps The Original Lumpy Gritz can fill us in since that is one of his favorite powders and he has done great research on it. Of course, the risk with going lower is a stuck bullet in the barrel. Each powder has it's own characteristics as you get to the low end and nearly all become unreliable or inconsistent in velocity/pressure - thus stuck bullets. Have them start with .22 revolvers - great for learning basics and eliminating fear. Then go to the SAA as they are excellent with recoil design. The J frame should be last once they are comfortable with the others. As you know the little revolvers with light weight are relatively more punishing. I call my snubbies (especially light weights) fire breathing dragons. For such small guns they have a lot more fire, bark and snap.
  7. When I shoot at an indoor range or around high power shooters, I use plugs AND ear muffs. The protection is not actually doubled but significantly improved.
  8. So glad you are through the surgery. Praying for a continued good recovery! Patience...
  9. I've noticed that with properly set up targets, the larger fragments do go down. That is what we want. If you have water under the target you can see the splash. If sand, you will see the line in the sand. But the physics are such that "powder" will go in sort of a plane in 360 degrees - up down, left right - sort of like a dinner plate at the same angle as the target is set. The upper portion of the splatter go well over our heads - (and dump into that pickup parked in back ) Since it is relatively fine it is much safer. And since it is fine (light), travels far and is only gravity fed when it falls it is no real danger. But I've seen at many ranges where the lead powder can fall. And a pick-up (or car hood) in the right place is a good way to discover it.
  10. As an old Texan once told me, "Never let the truth get in the way of a great story."
  11. You bring up an excellent point. Once they are where you want them, you don't want them to move.
  12. No doubt that the Buscadero can look cool, but they have some issues shooters need to consider. Our competition holster have improved SOOO drastically since we started. We used to try "authentic" thin leather holsters patterned after 100 year old designs that were made more for secure holding the gun rather than actually using the gun. Now we find rigid holsters to be much easier and safer to use. Look at the set you picture. First, the holster position is locked in - and normally not where most shooters would like - especially as we get a little older and lack full flexibility. Thhis applies to both the position and the holster angle. Next, it helps if the mouth of the holster is slightly flared outward to make reholstering easier. Notice that this set uses leather straps to hold the lower holster in place. That is an option, but it makes movement, setting down, etc more difficult. Most really good holster rigs (Holster & belt) now can hold the holster in place due to their more rigid construction. So the need for the extra string is eliminated.
  13. Great advice. Practice slow (and smooth). think, see and feel every movement. Bring your gun (front sight) up to your eye level fairly early in the draw. As you practice, you should see the front sight pretty quickly and then as you begin to push the pistol to the target, it should be pretty well lined up and ready to fire.
  14. http://www.curtrich.com/GettingStarted01.html
  15. Did you have to go to the coast to find yourself?
  16. Lengthening the forcing cone slightly reduces pressures and is needed for some older guns that have only 1/2 inch forcing cones. (This is for smokeless powders. Some find that the shorter forcing cone works well for black powder.) Some guns (such as Winchester 97's) chambers were made for the older shells, which when open, were shorter than modern star-crimped shells. So it helps to do those with standard modern chambers and 1 1/2 forcing cones - assuming the barrels are not too thin. Honing is where you merely want a nice smooth chamber. Sometimes the manufacturing process leaves very minor machining marks that can cause the hull to drag - thus need to be slightly smoother out but not actually enlarged or lengthened. Some modern guns have chrome-lined barrels and chambers. These are usually pretty smooth and much harder material.
  17. I prefer my bullets (cartridges) to go bang And the targets to ding Velocity consistency and accuracy are more important that the variance between guns.
  18. Funny story. Early in SASS I was shooting a 20 gauge (Stoeger, I think) Back then we didn't have as good of facilities at a lot of ranges, so we had a rifle rack and shotgun rack (essentially vertical staging.) Of course the Stoegers are pretty common. I got my shotgun and was shooting the stage, loaded the SXS and when I pulled the trigger, nothing happened! I couldn't figure it out (and since it was after the beep, we all know we are partially brain dead.) So I quickly pulled more shells and started to load them when I thought, I probably need to figure this out. The timer operator was also looking around the ground trying to see where in the world my shells went. Well those 20 gauge shells slipped right down that chamber - of the 12 gauge gun I had mistakenly picked up - and they looked identical. We got a kick out of it since nothing went wrong, but realized it could have been dangerous. So if you use the 2 different gauge guns, make certain to mark them in some manner to know which is which - a nice medallion, different buttstock, etc.
  19. And check the cylinder/barrel gap. Be careful about slugging your barrels. I did that one and my knuckles still hurt! We're here all week.
  20. I have used the flex hone but did use the special oil as Colorado Coffinmaker says. I've also used the mop and metal polish and both worked well. You merely need to be sure the chamber is smooth - it doesn't have to be mirror polished really. And as for the Walmark link, be careful when you post links as they often have a lot more info about you than we realize. For example the proper link to the flitz is: https://www.walmart.com/ip/FLITZ-METAL-POLISH-1-76-OZ/16493905 All the rest is relatively personal data to track someone. I copy until I get to the question mark, then I have the required link.
  21. I had a friend that worked for the police. He gave several of us scales confiscated from drug dealers. It works well, but I mainly use an old balance beam scale I bought used.
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