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annealing question


Alpo

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Posted

I plan to make some 300 Savage brass out of 308 Winchester. Basically, it's just run it into a 300 die, and then shorten the neck.

 

Would it make more sense to anneal it first, then size it down and shorten it? Or size it down and shorten it and then anneal it?

Posted

When I couldn't find any .243 brass up here, we resorted to .308 brass.

Heated the neck of the cases, with a torch, while they were standing in a tray of water, then tipped them over to cool.

Next, through the neck sizer, then trimmed them to the correct OAL.

YMMV

Good luck.

Posted
2 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Anneal, reform and Anneal again.

Sounds like my grandma’s advice when she caught me doing something wrong. :lol:

Posted
2 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Anneal, reform and Anneal again.

Yes working the brass will make it brittle. Anneal before forming and after so the sizing or crimp die doesn't Crack it

 

Non ferrous metals anneal on the quench unlike ferrous that gets brittle when quenched

Posted
1 hour ago, Texas Joker said:

 

Non ferrous metals anneal on the quench unlike ferrous that gets brittle when quenched

 NOPE :o

The heat does the annealing on nonferrous metal ;)

Do some research.....

Posted

OK hit it with a blow torch get it hot enough to anneal and try to work it hot.

 

Screenshot_20240814_163052_Brave.thumb.jpg.4daf0a72352d7bed61784f18a55697ba.jpg

Posted

I just googled it and that came up.

 

Ya heat it and it gets soft. When ya quench it you can work it sooner. I have been working metal since highschool. Worked non ferrous foundry can smelt pour and form metal Maybe I don't say it right but I know how to do it.

Posted

More brass cases are ruined by overheating while attempting to anneal them than by any other method.  Properly annealing cases is a lot more than heating with a propane torch and letting them cool. Like I posted before I have been annealing brass cases for over 50 years and have seen hundreds of them ruined.  That is why I gave up on all other methods and use a AMP machine since it became available. Perfect job every time. You can take your chances with other methods, but when I am using cases which cost $3.00+ each It is worth it to get it right. 

Posted
44 minutes ago, Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001 said:

ALPO 

 

  did you find any proper 300 Sav brass ? 

 

tryin to get hold of another guy , I think he had some , not sure how many , 

 

 he has more strange stuff than , I have 

 

CB 

Nope. Apparently the only ammunition, and thus the only brass or bullets, being made nowadays is 223, 308, 6.5 creedmoor and 762x39.

 

Just like the only pistol ammo is 9 mm, 40 and 45 ACP.

 

So if you need something that is not one of these seven chamberings, you're pretty much SOL.

I'm also looking for 35 Remington.

 

And I thought Unique powder was made of unobtainium.

Posted

Since I have none, I'm thinking a couple of hundred rounds.

Posted

If I was going to pray for brass I believe I would pray for 35 Remington.

 

If push absolutely comes to shove, I can cut down some longer brass for 300 (like I cut 270s down for 9.3 by 57).

 

I don't think anything except 35 Remington uses that case.

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