Cleaning 22

[Lankyframe #44046]

What do you guys use to clean the lead out of the forcing cone of a 22 revolver?

[Widder, SASS #59054]

I chuck a brass brush into my drill with a good cleaning product, such as a lead remover or good CLP 

product.   I prefer a .25 caliber brass bit because it fits tight.

 

Run your drill about 30 seconds in each chamber........... depending upon how much lead you have to 

scrub out.   Mileage varies.

 

..........Widder

 

[J-BAR #18287]

The "lead" is going to be a conglomeration of powder fouling mixed with the smeared lead.  If by "forcing cone" you mean the rearmost part of the barrel, I swab the bore with a good CLP or Ed's Red and let it sit a couple of hours, then scrub with a brass brush or a tornado brush.  Repeat until you no longer see little sparkly bits of lead coming out on the jag and patch.  (you want the patch to fit tightly; don't use a loose patch.)   Sometimes you will feel the patches drag as they pass through a region of the barrel with a lot of crud built up.  Continue your scrubbing efforts until the patches don't hesitate when they hit a constriction.

 

There is a gizmo called a Lewis Lead Remover.  Some folks swear by them.  It is essentially a scrubbing pad for the end of a cleaning rod.  They are not all that expensive but my guns clean up with Ed's Red and a tornado brush just fine.  Some folks shy away from tornado brushes.  Try the brass brush first, then a tornado, and save the Lewis Lead Remover as a last resort.

[Lankyframe #44046]

When I say forcing cone I do mean the rear most part of the barrel and Lewis lead remover doesn't make one for.22 LR. I might give the 25 caliber brush a try 

Thanks 

[J-BAR #18287]

2 minutes ago, Lankyframe #44046 said:

When I say forcing cone I do mean the rear most part of the barrel and Lewis lead remover doesn't make one for.22 LR. I might give the 25 caliber brush a try 

Thanks 

 

I won a .45 caliber LLR in a raffle, used it once, decided I preferred brushes.  I didn't know they were not made for .22s; just as well.

[Lazy Eeyour]

I found that BUTCH'S BORE SHINE works well to remove lead.

[Widder, SASS #59054]

Lankyframe,

 

I misread your OT and my post was more in reference to cleaning out chambers in

cylinders.

 

As for the 'forcing cone', I think J-Bar has a good solution.

 

..........Widder

 

[BLACKFOOT SASS #11947]

I haven"t faced he probem of lead in the forcing cone but I have removed some fouling such as carbon and powder residue.  First, remove the cylinder and aply some good solvent to the residue.  Insert a threaded pistol cleaning rod (aluminum or brass) into the barrell from the muzzle and screw on a chamber brush  of approiate size to the cleaning rod.  Now pull and twist the brush back into the frcing cone and  chamber as needed.  

Blackfoot

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

10 hours ago, Lankyframe #44046 said:

When I say forcing cone I do mean the rear most part of the barrel and Lewis lead remover doesn't make one for.22 LR. I might give the 25 caliber brush a try 

Thanks 

What ammo are you using?

 

[The Surgeon]

Get a couple copper choreboy scrubbing pads and cut it up to wrap around a brush or jag. Put solvent of choice on and run it back and forth.  

[Beartrap SASS#57175]

[Lankyframe #44046]

I shoot a variety of ammo. The chore boy idea sounds pretty close to the lewis lead remover

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

Try CCI mini-mag 40gn solid. 

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Watch muzzle velocity on that hi-speed MiniMag

CCI states:

Muzzle Velocity

1235 FPS

 

Which is probably measured in rifle.  If so, it passes max velocity test.  Revolver use might have to be tested to be sure.

good luck, GJ

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

To the OP question, I would use a worn 30 cal brush and just barely let it enter the cone, then twist rod and brush.

 

I too try to test and use the cleaner ammo - large differences between cheap promo 22 and target 22.   I've never noticed any when I shoot Federal, CCI or Rem subsonic target loads.

 

good luck, GJ

[John Kloehr]

I use a lead solvent for lead fouling. When really bad, I shove a wadded up cleaning patch in the area and soak it, then let it sit to do its job.

 

A brass brush is not likely to damage steel, but is still extra work. give the right chemical time to simply dissolve it.

 

My lady has a gun which runs well with lead ammo, but I go for copper jacket when it runs well (Ruger 10/22, Ruger Mark 4); Still get copper fouling after many rounds and then choose a copper-dissolving chem and give it time to do its work.