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Cap Problem


Tequila Shooter

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I’ve got 2 Pietta 1858 NMAs in .44.  I’ve got the same problem with both and I’m frustrated what to do to fix it. I’m getting cap suck, I thought it was due to light hammer springs, letting the hammers rebound off the cap.  I changed both hammer springs with new Wolf springs, the hammers are definitely stronger than the old ones.  My load is pretty much full chambers of 3F APP with a wad and then the ball.  Is there anything that I’m missing?

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I've found that factory nipples don't cut it.  Years ago, I put some Treso's in both.  Never had trouble since.

 

Hope someone can guide you better than I in finding them.

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"Cap Suck" is usually a term I associate with burs on the face of the hammer that stick to and pull the cap back into the action.  If this is your issue you can try polishing the hammer faces. 

 

What do the spent caps look like?  If they are blasting into tiny fragments the factory stock nipples might be allowing a lot of blow back.  Slix or Treso are both good aftermarket alternatives to the factory nipples.

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I’m sorry I forgot to say that I’m using Slix nipples with CCI #11 caps. 

 

@July Smith no fragmenting, the caps are split on the sides. The big issue is that after each shot the spent cap jams between the frame and cylinder.   I’ll double check the hammers and smooth if necessary. 

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48 minutes ago, Burn Through said:

I have 51s they had the v notch in hammer face .. Fire and Fallback saw them one day told me to weld it up file flat … that took care of my problem

Yup.  That fix your issue.  Believe at one time it was recommended to use JB Weld to fill in the notch then file down.

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Cap suck is when spent caps get sucked thru the hammer slot.  Check your hammer face for burrs, also the recoil shield., especially around the hammer slot.  Your hammer spring may still be too light for a full load of 3F.  Back off the charge weight to less than 30 grains, maybe as low as 25 or so.  You ony need to ding the plates.  If my 15 grain .36's will take down the KDs, your 44. surely will!

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I agree with Griff.
I assume your cap is backing into the slot in the frame where the hammer face comes through.
I think excessive back pressure through the nipple is causing this.
It is less pronounced with Treso Nipples IMHO, because the exit hole in the nipple is very tiny.
Also, I believe that the side vent hole contribute to this.
I don't know if you remember, but nipples with side holes like those in Slix were introduced many years ago by (if I remember correctly) Butler Creek, and us muzzleloaders were warned not to use them on revolvers.
I remember & laughed a bit when Slix recently came out with this design.

Anyway, I personally use 20 grains FFFg in a 44 and have never had a problem with caps flowing back into the recess behind the nipple.
So...I would do what Griff suggests, and back off on the powder a bit, and see if that doesn't solve your problem.
--Dawg 

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PLUS ONE for Griff and Prairie Dawg.  Going with a full wallop load for this game is > > > > silly (My Opine).  We only need get the Ball from the gun to a target Five to Seven Yards away and make it "Ding" and or take the not too common knock-down down.  In al honesty, a full load is a waste of perfectly good powder.  Back off the load and if necessary, fill the excess space with a good Breakfast Food (Cream-0-Wheat anyone??) 

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In my 1860's, I had that issue. Using TOW nipples, 24gr. 3F, lubed wad, and round ball. I installed cap rakes, polished the hammer faces and the groove in the recoil shield. Been no issue since. I'm not familiar with 51s, so this might be of no help.

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Slix shot Nipples are designed and advertised to work with Remington #10 caps .

Then defang the hammer and use a heaver hammer spring .

Rooster 

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