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Levi Astorbilt

Stoeger Coach Gun Supreme opening when fired.

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I purchased a new Stoeger Coach Gun Supreme exclusively for the single trigger. When the gun arrived, I cut the locking lever rod to disable the auto safety engagement. I elected to leave everything else alone to let the gun break in with use.

FWIW, I had ZERO issues with my previous Stoeger which had been modified with both lighter hammer and locking lever springs.I believed I would get the same enjoyment out of another Stoeger.

After a few matches with the new Stoeger, I began experiencing misfires with the second shot (left barrel). Investigation led to the conclusion that the gun was breaking open slightly and the primer strike on the second barrel was off center.
To remedy the "opening when fired" problem I dismantled and inspected. I was hoping to find a broken locking lever spring but the factory spring is unmolested and strong. 

I noticed the reciprocating locking lug in the receiver that engages the lugs on the barrel had a burr preventing full engagement. Knowing that this beveled lug is designed to wear in and is not supposed to FULLY engage I only removed the burr and polished the face for a little smoother mating and lessen the odds of a new burr being created.

 

Well, seems I made the issue worse. Instead of opening once or twice during a match, it opens every single shot now.

 

Should I buy some spring stock from Brownells and increase lever spring tension or rough up the lugs to make some drag? What could be the cause of this issue?

 

Those "in the know", please chime in.

 

Advice is much appreciated, Thanks!

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Look up Marauder's Cowboy Page.  There is a link to a mechanical fix for this problem written by Coyote Cap.  It's on his Old Irons page under tuning shotguns, then "A fix for Stoeger misfires".

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Thanks Sam. I did some reading at Marauders Page. I think I am on the right track. Seems the bur has reemerged. I think I will modify the latch to lever mating to increase the latch to barrel lug engagement.I am only going to remove metal from the latch. Seems this part is made of unobtanium so I need to be certain I am actually on the right track. Anyone here ever have to do this????

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Before you remove any material from the area shown in your bottom two photos do a little check.  Put in the barrels and then look at the latch surface in your photos.  In most unmodified Stoegers that area is not in contact with the top lever.  Very easy to tell just look at the latch and start pushing the top lever to the right.  Chances are the lever is not contacting the latch until the lever has been moved to the right a bit.  If that is the case removing more material from the latch will not increase travel since it is already in as far as it can go.  Before grinding anything else put some blacking on with a Sharpie or Prussian Blue on the barrel lug and the locking latch surfaces and move the latch back and forth a few times so you can see what is contacting where.

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Larson, You are correct
I used ink to cover the wear surfaces and re assembled.So it seems there is a gap between the latch and lever when the latch rests on the lug. I need to first taper the latch so it can travel further forward along the lug.....The front lug has never made contact with the latch.

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The front lug never makes contact on a stock Stoeger.  Here is a photo of the stock setup.  The plate is a machined plate that is the thickness of the water table on the Stoeger receiver.  You can see that the front lug makes no contact.

 

 

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I'm sure you have already checked but is the locking latch warped?  If you remove the barrels and top lever does it move freely in and out of the frame?  A lot of these have a significant upward or downward bow.  The 51KB limit sure plays heck with trying to post detailed photos but see if this one shows some detail.  On this latch it is not bowed but the bottom was nowhere near flat and it would bind in the receiver slots.  Put your latch on a known FLAT surface and check it for bows.  Then turn it over and check the top.  This one is from a brand new out-of-the-box gun.

 

 

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Found not much contact. Slowly fitted the latch to the lug until the latch contacted the face of the lever.

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SUCCESS!!! Test fired and all is good. I previously had some play in the opening lever. Not anymore, Thanks Larson for the advice!

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Levi-Thank you for the great pictures.

That helps all of us.

Larsen does much to help us all out!

OLG

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Replacing the factory lever lock spring and shaft is quite easy if you utilize the hole provided!

 

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I had the same issue with my first Stoeger after about a year of use. I added a bit of weld metal with my MIG welder to the lug, then ground it back down so that it would properly engage the latch tab. No more opening when firing.  Different approach to solving the same issue. 

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At the end of last season I was experiencing somewhat the same issues.  Misfires, inconsistencies, etc. and when I checked my forearm had split right up the middle.  That allowed the metal parts to move and not always cock both barrels.  I replaced the forearm, but then the barrels would not open all of the way.  Had to go back to the drawing board and treat it like a new gun and make the parts fit again.  Stoeger was no help as they said my gun was no longer under warrantee.  

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I shot a full match with this Stoeger yesterday. Approx 30 shells fired.Functioned flawlessly.
So nice to have this single trigger SG in order.
A great deal of satisfaction comes along with personally resolving it's issues.

 

 

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Great info.

This is the kind of info that needs to get Pinned and saved when all done.

Just sayin.

Rooster 

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  You took the right approach and performed the correct work to correct the problem.  This is not an unusual happening with a Stoeger Coach Gun, equipped with either double or single triggers.  One thing I found out several years ago is that using standard target or hunting loads adds to the problem, due to the higher pressures generated by that ammo.  Using the Winchester low noise/low recoil loads that run 980 FPS will usually remedy the problem, as will reloading your own ammo to reduced velocities.  It's quite easy to hand load low velocity ammo that will also greatly reduce the pressures, and many times eliminate the "shooting open" problem.   The lower velocity ammo is just as effective on our KD targets as standard target ammo is.

 

    RBK

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Recently, a cowboy started having the opening when fired troubles with his Stoeger SxS. The problem was the barrel engagement lug. The action job performed created a slope to the lug and the receiver "catch" would bounce off the lug.

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I remember Spur Roberts held his closed to fire but he was a bit different in his abilities. Glad you got it fixed. 

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Red, the latch engagement angle can be modified to help...

I don't know how long it would take to get a replacement latch, but they are only a few dollars. 

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Thanks for bringing "closure" to this topic.  So many times a problem is presented and then discussed but often you never know if or how the problem was resolved.  

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Seller is fixing it.

Originally, he filed the engagement surface of the primary lug into a steep slope. Sounds good but.......I think the recoil and /or rebound recoil made the receiver latch  bounce back and allow the SxS to open.  The SxS would stay closed sometimes. There is a groove across the face of the engagement surface of the lug that looks similar to the Marlin jam line where the leading edge of the latch contacted the lug. I was surprised to see the indentation.

One would have to weld up the lug engagement and file flat.

 

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