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Ripsaw

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  • SASS #
    101497
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Cavalier Cowboys, KC's Corral, Mattaponi Sundowners, Pungo Posse, Pepper Mill Creek Gang

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central Virginia
  • Interests
    Boating and fishing, woodworking, restoring/collecting IH Cub Cadets, shooting and reloading. Tinkering. RO1, RO2.

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  1. I stand on their strong side and slightly behind them but with a view of the guns (left for lefties, right for righties) and always hold the timer in my left hand so my right hand is free if needed. If the stage includes movement (and many do) I try to stand on the side away from the movement to avoid causing interference. I'm not watching the targets except in rare situations where it's a new shooter that needs help. Props, windows, doorways, etc., sometimes dictate where you must stand.
  2. Had my normal progressive lenses made in yellow tint/ANSI safety lenses (polycarbonate I think) and put in safety glasses frames with side shields. Having the same prescription as my normal every day wear makes the transition to the range glasses seamless.
  3. I gave up on the Frankfort Arsenal primer loading tool. Been looking at the Double Alpha machine. Currently loading tubes by hand. I sit down with a brick of primers and 10 tubes and just fill 'em up. That lasts me 2 or 3 days if I'm on a loading binge.
  4. Deadeye, I subscribed to your channel when you posted the first video. Your videos are some of the best I've ever seen on CAS techniques and the 360 match video was stunning. I look forward eagerly to each new release!
  5. I think the NMV comes stock with a 17 lb hammer spring. I run 14 lb springs in mine and use Federal primers exclusively. I use the 40 oz trigger springs.
  6. Ripsaw

    Rossi 92

    Started out with a Rossi 92 in 38/357. Lasted me about 6 mos. Fired a friend's CodyMatic Uberti '73 and ordered one that day. The 92 is in the safe, hasn't seen daylight in 4 years. Bought a Marlin '94 for possible B Western use and a couple more CocyMatic Uberti '73s since then. I've seen people like Deuce Stevens run the '92 but nobody I know and shoot with can run one as fast as they can run the '73. So, yes the 92 can be competitive, but most people seem to be able to run the 73 faster.
  7. I've been a fan of the Dillon Square Deal B press since before it was call a "B". (actually have 4 of them now). It's affordable, and is auto indexing. The 550 is not auto indexing. In my opinion, auto indexing helps avoid double charges or no charge in cases. The 750 is auto indexing as well, but is considerably more expensive. True, you can't load rifle ammo on a SDB but we're talking about CAS and loading .38s. I load 400 rounds/hour on the SDB. I leave the different presses set up for the pistol calibers I shoot most often. I load rifle on a single stage RCBS Rock Chucker.
  8. Have one, maybe more recent, also marked Kahr. (Didn't they buy Auto/Ordnance). So far, I like it, but it's my first 1911, so I don't have anything to compare it to. Price was right.
  9. Here are some pics of the modified 45Colt die insert for the SDB for crimping C45S. Just make sure you grind off the correct end! Bevel and Polish the new "bottom ".
  10. I run the SDB as well. For C45S I ground down a 45Colt crimp die (bought an extra one from Dillon) so that it would work with the shorter cases. I use a 45Colt sizer, 45ACP expander and seating die, and the ground down 45Colt crimp die.
  11. Would it be possible to see a picture of where you added metal to the locking lug of your stoeger?

    1. Ripsaw

      Ripsaw

      sure, here you go. once you add some weld metal, you need to file it down flat and put the barrel and stock together and then make sure the locking plate fully engages that lug. File it down until the locking plate completely closes over the lug. You can tell by how the opening lever behaves. Any play between that lug and the locking plate is not permissible because as that lug wears, the barrels will move.  On both of my stoegers, the locking plate, when new, just barely engaged that lug. So it wore it away a bit, creating looseness. Now it fully engages. I don't shoot this gun any more, have moved to an SKB. The area shown is dirty and a bit wonky, but it works fine. The little shiny flat spot under the tip of the pointer is the critical area, should be smooth and flat and have essentially zero clearance with the locking plate. 

      20190805_121656.jpg

    2. Procedural Pete
  12. I've also added some weight to the top of the primer follower rod. Keeping things clean, and replacing the primer tube tip periodically seems to be the answer. I get 5k to 10k rounds out of a plastic tip.
  13. I've not seen much this problem, though the last box of Missouri Bullet Co. bullets had two or three that were not properly formed. Out of probably 20,000 that I've used over the past 3 years, these were the first such poorly formed bullets. When I went to seat them on the belled case, they fell into the case. I didn't think much of it, as it was only a couple out of so many thousand, but the fact that they all occurred in a single box of 1000, seemed odd. If you have a bunch of bad bullets, I'd call the mfg and let them know. Most if not all will gladly make things right for you.
  14. Assuming you are not shooting B-Western, where you'd need a buscadero rig (low slung, double strong side) rig, then I'd suggest you get a conventional set up like Mernickle's High Performance rig and have him make you a third holster for cross draw. That way, you'll have matching gear for either double strong side or cross draw shooting. The extra holster is about $150 IIRC. I bought a B-Western rig before I really knew what I was doing, and used it for a year. Switched to the HP rig last year. Mernickle stuff is top grade, and Bob's a hoot to talk to on the phone. With the Mernickle HP rig, you can move the holsters around to suit, so you have flexibility in positioning them.
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