Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Ejector Rod options?


Fordyce Beals

Recommended Posts

As a long term cap and ball shooter I just recently started shooting a few matches FCGF with a pair of Ruger Old model Bisley revolvers. When ejecting the cases the ejector rod stops on contact with the head of the base pin. At this point the cartridge case is still not clear of the cylinder. As I see it to get more ejector rod travel and get the case clear of the cylinder I could:

 

Cut off the head of the cylinder base pin

 

Change the shape of the ejector rod head to pass clear of the base pin

 

Extend the ejector rod housing to the end of the barrel to lengthen the ejector rod

 

Use shorter brass and hotter, smokier powder to compensate

 

Let go of the ejector rod head and grab the case and pull it out

 

Bang the grip frame on the unloading table to get the case to fall out

 

Some of these ideas constitute external modifications that may not have approval of the ROC. Is there some better ideas out there or do I just have to learn to live with this?

 

Fordyce

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Technique (popping the rounds out instead of pushing), good quality brass and keeping the chambers as xlean as possible works for me 90% of the time.

If I shoot BP, I will pull the cylinder, spray Ballistol in the chmbers and wipe clean after three stages.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Belt Mountain makes some base pins with short heads, giving you more ejector travel. Or you can saw off and finish the heads yourself, shortening to where only one groove exists to let you pull the base pin.

 

Learning how to snap the ejector rod to let momentum carry the fired case out of the cylinder works for me with Ruger Bisley (old) Vaqueros in 45 Colt.

 

But what really made extraction easy was switching to Cowboy .45 Spl cases. (Kinda ideal for BP in .45 caliber - just fill case and you still have a pussycat loading.)

 

Good luck, GJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There already exists an OEM Ruger part for their 3 1/2 inch barrel guns. That part is flush with the flange on the current base pin. Cut your to that length and finish/polish it. Done.

 

Coffinmaker

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a long term cap and ball shooter I just recently started shooting a few matches FCGF with a pair of Ruger Old model Bisley revolvers. When ejecting the cases the ejector rod stops on contact with the head of the base pin. At this point the cartridge case is still not clear of the cylinder. As I see it to get more ejector rod travel and get the case clear of the cylinder I could:

 

Cut off the head of the cylinder base pin

LEGAL MOD

 

Change the shape of the ejector rod head to pass clear of the base pin

LEGAL MOD

 

Extend the ejector rod housing to the end of the barrel to lengthen the ejector rod

Sounds like more trouble than it's worth to me.

<_<

 

Use shorter brass and hotter, smokier powder to compensate

YES!

;)

 

Let go of the ejector rod head and grab the case and pull it out

Don't break a nail doing that.

^_^

 

Bang the grip frame on the unloading table to get the case to fall out

This works sometimes...watched a shooter do that on the last case at the ULT once; when I mentioned that there was an "ejector thingy" under the barrel to help empty his cylinder, I got "the look".

:ph34r:

Some of these ideas constitute external modifications that may not have approval of the ROC. Is there some better ideas out there or do I just have to learn to live with this?

Lots of LEGAL options available.

 

Fordyce

REVOLVER EJECTOR RODS

• Colt style bullseye or crescent ejector rods may be installed.

...

REVOLVER CYLINDER PINS

• The cylinder pin may be shortened.

• A screw may be used to secure the cylinder pin.

SHB pp. 8-9

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or just buy a pair of New Vaquero Bisleys which comes with a longer ejector rod. Problem solved. Ruger fixed the problem with the new models.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Belt Mountain makes some base pins with short heads, giving you more ejector travel.

Hey Fordyce, used to shoot with a guy in Norco with the same guns and the same problem, he went the Belt Mountain route to solve the problem. Regards to the Mrs!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fordyce,

 

I cut off the cylinder pin at the groove closest to the frame. No other modification was needed as the ejector spring bottomed out before the ejector button hit the modified pin yet fully ejected the brass. Using the ejector with a little bit of speed helps also.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Smoke

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the cylinder pin to be long enough to grab on to pull out and hate to grab it with pliers when it gets stuck with black powder fouling so I won't cut it shorter.

 

 

REVOLVER EJECTOR RODS
• Colt style bullseye or crescent ejector rods may be installed.

 

Does this mean I could profile the ejector rod head to miss the cylinder pin head? (Is an after market solution for this available?)

 

Fordyce

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the cylinder pin to be long enough to grab on to pull out and hate to grab it with pliers when it gets stuck with black powder fouling so I won't cut it shorter.

 

 

REVOLVER EJECTOR RODS

• Colt style bullseye or crescent ejector rods may be installed.

 

Does this mean I could profile the ejector rod head to miss the cylinder pin head? (Is an after market solution for this available?)

 

Fordyce

 

 

Does the mod you cited from the rules justify re-shaping the existing ejector rod tab? Not really. Will anyone notice it? Probably not. Is there an existing ejector rod replacement part to do what you want? Don't think so.

 

To be totally safe, sketch out what you plan to do and submit it to the Rules Committee as a proposed external modification. And that will be a harder/riskier path to travel than some of the other suggestions already made.

 

Good luck, GJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Does the mod you cited from the rules justify re-shaping the existing ejector rod tab? Not really. Will anyone notice it? Probably not. Is there an existing ejector rod replacement part to do what you want? Don't think so.

 

To be totally safe, sketch out what you plan to do and submit it to the Rules Committee as a proposed external modification. And that will be a harder/riskier path to travel than some of the other suggestions already made.

 

Good luck, GJ

See PWBs post. Reshaping the ejector rod tab is ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Howdy,

STOP......STOP....STOP

 

Don't cut anything don't buy anything.

Just clean the firing chambers really clean.

Even put a little cheep toothpaste on a patch on a brush and scrub em clean.

This will let those cases just slide right on out. Hit em hard.

 

IF that aint enuf just rotate the cylinder so the ejector rod hits the MOUTH of the case

instead of the bottom of the case. It just takes a little bit of practice.

You can do it.

Catch the end of the ejector rod on the edge of the case mouth and push.

This works way better with a clean firing chamber.

 

And or you can do all that other stuff.

Remember even tho a modification is SASS legal the gun is no longer factory

original and it very well may hurt the future collector value.

Best

CR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.