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Remington New Army cap seating


Mountain George

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Ted Nash straight capper. It fits into the space around the nipples. Use some sort of push stick to push down on the caps to insure they are seated. I use a 1/4"dia. wood dowel. Some use the tip of an antler.

 

Some folks use a loading stand that puts the revolver barrel up. Then they can use two hands. Me I hold the pistol with one hand, pour powder in 5 chambers rotating the cylinder with the hand holding the pistol, then same for wads, then same for balls. When I seat the balls the end of the grip is sitting on something solid as in table top.

Ike

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Take a Dremel tool and round out around each nipple and any capping tool will work.

i am from Germany there it ist not legal to do this at home, only a certificated gun smith can do it

and after this the Revolvers have to pass a test at a official Gun Test Labor

it would cost round about 250 Dollar to do this for 2 Revolver

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i am from Germany there it ist not legal to do this at home, only a certificated gun smith can do it

and after this the Revolvers have to pass a test at a official Gun Test Labor

it would cost round about 250 Dollar to do this for 2 Revolver

Does that mean that by law, you are not allowed to work on(replace parts, do minor modifications etc)on your own firearms?

Is so-What as a gun owner are you permitted to do then?

OLG

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I use the Ted Cash capper on my Remington revolver. I did grind down the brass tip a little and it works better for me. The brass tip under the caps is what I filed off.

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whre can i buy this tool?

I bought mine on sale at Wal*Mart after muzzle loader hunting season. They are inexpensive and commonly available where muzzle loading supplies are sold in the US. I have spares and would give a German shooter at EOT one to give to you.

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Does that mean that by law, you are not allowed to work on(replace parts, do minor modifications etc)on your own firearms?

Is so-What as a gun owner are you permitted to do then?

OLG

minor modifications i can do, but everything like drilling, cutting, welding and grinding at the frame or barrel or the cylinder is not allowed,

a gun smith can do this, but as i wrote after this the gun must pass a offical gun test whre they shoot the gun with 30% more power as normal.

i can change a spring or screw, i can replace many parts but not so as you can do in America.

also i can not buy al the parts of a gun, some parts are only sold to a gun smith or a dealer

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If you cannot find a Ted Cash capper to modify, try using forceps/tweezers to pick the cap out of the tin and insert it on the nipple.

Then seat them firmly with a wooden dowel.

For me, using forceps is easier than using my fingers.

I burn out any residual oil when I cap & fire each nipple twice the night before a match..

Then I load up for the first stage the next day.

I use my forceps to do this and, for 2 pistols, it is not tedious at all.

--Dawg

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minor modifications i can do, but everything like drilling, cutting, welding and grinding at the frame or barrel or the cylinder is not allowed,

a gun smith can do this, but as i wrote after this the gun must pass a offical gun test whre they shoot the gun with 30% more power as normal.

i can change a spring or screw, i can replace many parts but not so as you can do in America.

also i can not buy al the parts of a gun, some parts are only sold to a gun smith or a dealer

WOW-Those laws must be very frustrating to deal with. About the only part we can not buy directly and have to go through a dealer for is the frame or the part of the gun that has the serial number.

THX for the info and time.

My I ask where you are located? My grandmother(Mom's side)was from Baumholder-Last name of Haan.

OLG

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Inline capper from Dixie Gun Works, I don't know their shipping policy. Pull the plunder back and swing the loop over it to hold it back while loading it, then release the plunder and spring pressure keeps cap in the tip. Using one on a Remington, might require rounding of the brass "hood" that part under the spring "lips" as seen on the left side of the this pic.

NA0601.JPG

I found that that using them with the Remington, required holding it at an angle from the gun to get the cap started and then all I needed to do to "seat" caps, was to flip the capper over, and then press a bit more to get the caps seated. This was using the stock nipples on an old ASM 1858. I can't say if I ever had misfires, or FTFs, as I only used it one season nearly 27 years ago, and finally traded it off about 3 years ago. Other manufacturer's copies may have other idiosyncrasies that I'm unaware of.

 

Good luck.

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WOW-Those laws must be very frustrating to deal with. About the only part we can not buy directly and have to go through a dealer for is the frame or the part of the gun that has the serial number.

THX for the info and time.

My I ask where you are located? My grandmother(Mom's side)was from Baumholder-Last name of Haan.

OLG

originally from a small Town in the middle of Germany it's calles Erndtebrueck

https://www.google.de/maps/place/Erndtebr%C3%BCck/@50.9891778,8.2677924,12z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x47bc0922c6025e9b:0x3c067be70165847

 

no i live 25km east from Frankfurt/ Main: Bruchkoebel

https://www.google.de/maps/place/Bruchk%C3%B6bel/@50.1842384,8.9319354,13z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x47bd19c246fd957b:0x422435029b09da0

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@Prairie Dawg

If you cannot find a Ted Cash capper to modify, try using forceps/tweezers to pick the cap out of the tin and insert it on the nipple.

 

is this a right one?

5585538.80075128.jpg

 

and can you please explain me how that one should be modified?

 

here are 2 other i can get over here

5581111.1154210875.jpg

 

5578743.35562677.jpg

 

 

or is that one from Dixie better?

NA0601.JPG

 

 

TX & Best Regards

Juergen

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The straight one is it. I use #10 Remington caps. If you have a problem with the caps falling off during shooting you might look into replacing the nipples. No matter what C&B gun anyone shoots we all replace the nipples immediately. SLIX-Shot cap and ball nipples ww.cowboygunparts.com/cap-&-ball-nipples.html.

 

Ike

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Hi Juergen:

The top capper is the correct Ted Cash capper. I like this one very much and carry a dozen fully loaded (with Remington #10 or #11 caps) in my kit.

The second one is a Ted Cash rifle capper. it will not work

The third one is a Ted Cash teardrop capper. Many folks use these with their pistols. I personally do not like them.

The fourth is a straight-line capper from Dixie. I think they are inferior to the Ted Cash straight line. I have some, but do not like them.

 

The general procedure is to file down the brass piece that protrudes under the springy jaws of the capper, so that, instead of all of it supporting the flat base of the cap, it supports only 1/2 to 2/3 of the cap base.

 

You'll have to file & try it, file some more & try again, etc.

I have modified the cap recesses of my Remmies instead, which I understand that you can't do.

That is why my instructions are general and I have no picture to show you.

 

By the way, it is beneficial to change out the factory nipples, which are junk, to Slix or Treso nipples.

Irish Ike gave you a link for Slix nipples. Here is one for Treso nipples.

http://possibleshop.com/s-s-nipples-cb.html

 

Hope this helps.

--Dawg

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Yep, Yusta B. is correct -- and that is a Treso nipple.

Much better contour & made to work with Remington caps.

--Dawg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did it, a friend of mine

has a drilling maschine an he made it for me, it works

 

this is the cylinder from the Uberti

2015-10-0211-36-30-im78jvm.jpg

 

 

and this is the cylinder from the Pieta

2015-10-0211-38-44-imc5jso.jpg

 

 

also i modified the cap seating tool

2015-10-0211-39-10-imzhkao.jpg

 

2015-10-0211-37-59-im5sk80.jpg

 

2015-10-0121-06-33-imk6j8b.jpg

 

the next i have to do is to clean both cylinders in a ultrasonic cleaner

and to blue them

 

TX to all

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