reloading tips

[Hoss]

Just bought a brand new Lee Loadmaster. I have it set up on a bench now, I think I have it mostly figured out. The instructions arn't the clearest in the world, but with the help of some videos, and a tiny bit of common sense, I think I have it set up correctly. Now gathering components, hope to start loading next week. Press came set up for 38 sp with 3 dies, (deprimer/sizer, powder, bullet seater) I'm considering adding a universal deprimer, then prime in station 2 while sizing. any other thoughts/reccomendations?

[White Buffalo]

Factory Crimp is nice.

 

It is a pretty good press and well worth the time to set it up right have one on my bench

[Warden Callaway]

If you didn't get it with the set, carbide sizing die would be a wise investment.

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

Call Lee if/when you have questions.

X2 on carbide size die and Lee Factory Crimp die.

Get a case checker gauge(Dillon sells them)for each caliber you load.

Buy a GOOD set of dial calipers.

NEVER-allow yourownself to be distracted when reloading

LG

[Phiren Smoke GUNFIGHTER]

Hoss,

 

That is the press I started with and still use for almost all my loading. I have a Lee turret press for 22-250 and 45-70.

 

As for the Load Master place a level across the top (where the die plate sits). If it is mounted level most of the potential problems will be eliminated. I also replaced the chain for the powder drop with a stretch type spring short enough that the spring is stretched about 1&1/2 it's at rest length when the ram is at the bottom of it's stroke.

 

I am very happy with mine I think you will be too.

 

If you have any questions please feel free to PM me.

 

Hope this helps

 

Smoke

[BLACKFOOT SASS #11947]

I used a Loadmaster for a number of years and at times they can be a challenge. I found that a deprime die on #1 then sizeing on station #2 worked well.

 

If you are a new reloader I recommend that you load a lot of ammo with only one case in the machine at a time before you start feeding a empty case at each stroke of the lever.

 

Good luck,

Lafitte

[Marauder SASS #13056]

The most common problem with the Loadmaster is the priming system. This was vastly improved in the last year or so when they changed the priming slider.

To start with, I would use the regular depriming and sizing die in position one. That way you get a better feel for priming. After you get a little used to it, then try the universal deprime in position one and see what you prefer.

 

And to start learning, just load one round at a time. Then when you are all adjusted and comfortable, go to the progressive operation.

 

You do not need the factory crimp die if you properly adjust the seating/crimp die, but the factory crimp die is a nice addition if you would like it.

 

You bigger challenge now is finding a good supply of powder and primers. For 38 Special in cowboy, I recommend a faster powder such as Clays, ClayDot, 700X, Solo 1000, AA#2,, Trail Boss, or possibly Tightgroup.

[captqueeze]

Here's the authority on Lee Loadmaster fixes. You will find out how to fine tune the loader and make it spot on reliable.

 

http://www.loadmastervideos.com/

 

 

Within that site is a forum which contains everything you will ever need to know.

Capt

[Papa Irish]

Get a Lee factory crimp die for your final stage (if it doesn't have one, that is)

[Shorty Jack Hammer]

I don't have experience with other presses other than my loadmaster, but I have tried to follow the advice I can find so I'm not reinventing the wheel. I have had great luck with it. I too eventually got the universal decapper die and moved the sizing die to station 2. And +1 on the factory crimp die. The only issue I have ever had is literally every time I refill the primer tray the first primer goes in the shell upside down...every time without fail. Not sure why or if it's something I'm doing but basically it's become part of my routine to pull the first shell after priming, deprime it and run it through again...

[Coffin Filler #51633]

If you spend any time on the Cast Boolit forums you will learn that the Lee FCD is just about useless or worse. It can swage the bullet on seating such that the bullet is no longer is a good fit to the bore. That will lead to leading and/or poor accuracy. If a normal die set is properly set up, you will make better reloads. All you need to do is iron our the case belling and put a slight roll crimp into the bullet (usually at the crimp groove). It certainly is not rocket surgery and match quality ammo was being produced decades before the FCD was introduced. Do not waste your money.

 

Some Lee progressives (most?) do not run smoothly from the get go. Do not get too discouraged if yours is one. There are mods/tweaks that help. Do not go for speed. Try for a smooth steady rhythm.

 

If you are new to reloading, a Lee progressive is not a good place to start. As mentioned, use it as a single stage tool for a few hundred rounds to understand the process and how the Lee works. I normally do not recommend Trail Boss as it there are better choices but you should start with it if you have never used a progressive before. With Trail Boss you will know when you double charge a case (and you likely will). A double charge with almost any other powder will go undetected until it is time for a change of undergarments.

 

Once you have used up a couple of lbs of TB, switch to a lesser cost powder. My CAS powder for the .38 is Clays. HP 38 (same as W231) is another good one. An inexpensive option is Promo - produced by Alliant. Promo uses the same load data as Red Dot but is about 75% of the cost. I cannot give load data but there is some on the Alliant site. The only issue with Promo is that its density varies lot to lot but that is not a concern if you check powder drops. It only comes in 8 lb. jugs. I use it for both pistol,, cast rifle reduced loads, and shotgun loads so an 8 lb. jug is not a negative. In fact, I like so much I have 12 jugs of the stuff. The best to place to buy it is at a trap, skeet or sporting clays club that sells components or at one of the big shotgun shoots.

 

Coffin Filler

[Griff]

If I were to offer any advice, it would to be to buy more reloading manuals. I have manuals that span over 50 years of expertise... (others, not mine), but in the 40 years I've been reloading, I've collected upwards of 15 or so manuals... several from the same manufacturers... which do change by the way... adding and deleting cartridges, bullets and powders. In the beginning, I just had the then latest Sierra manual... then bought a Speer; and while their descriptions of the reloading process are pretty close... they aren't quite identical. There've been times when that differences had helped me understand a step in better detail... and the reasons behind it! Don't think for an instant that by reading one manual you'll have mastered the process... I'm still learning... and I hope, improving the ammo I make.

 

Another fairly new tool I've been using is an Android app that keeps my favorite recipes ready, at hand! In the past, I've written them down, marked 'em in books and still managed to lose them! XPlat Ballistics allows me to keep separate loads for CAS, WB, self-defense, hunting, etc., for the same bullet cartridge combinations where just changes in powder or primers are warranted. I can keep all the relevant data for that loading, including FPS and what firearm it was loaded for. I haven't tried any of the others that are out there... but if they contain to ability to keep your successful loads... with all the data, they can't be bad.

[Branchwater Jack SASS #88854]

Griff, good point on keeping good notes on recipes that you have used and keeping them in a place where you can easily find them.

 

I guess I am old fashioned. With as often as software and phones changeover, I still like to keep mine on paper.

 

I have a 3 ring notebook that I keep. I made up a sheet that I put all my loads on. Has spaces for load data, range performance data, notes, and whatever else I want to keep. Have tabs to separate each caliber for quick access.