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    Where ever there's a Bounty to be had........

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    Jersey City, NJ
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    Spaghetti Westerns

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  1. That's a pretty good Kinks album. Underrated I think.
  2. Like mentioned above, Citristrip is the way to go. Got it at the Home Depot. I redid my '66 back in '12. Used Citristrip to loosen all the varnish off it, and the wiped it all down with one of those plastic brillow type pads, also from the Home Depot, designed for wood stripping. Scrubbed it all off, then washed the remaining goop off, and let wood try for a few days. Then lightly sanded down with 600grain sandpaper, wiped down with a damp cloth, and let sit for a day or two. I also used a sandstone powder, not sure if it was before or after staining. I followed directions from some scenic artists I worked with at the time, figured that since doing this type of stuff was their job, they would know best. Believe it, or not, there's an actual science to restaining wood to prevent internal mold, and rot, which will destroy the furniture on your firearm. But we're dealing with Uberti rifles for SASS use, not a $10k+ shotgun for trap or dove hunting.
  3. I was also told, I think by Coffinmaker, that using a lighter mainspring obviously reduces pressure triggering the hammer going forward, and the spring on the hand, can still be still, and when that hammer falls, the hand and spring get compressed in the hand channel, and a stiff hand spring can actually slow down a hammer falling. I thought about this and it made sense. Then one day cleaning my Uberti 1860s I snapped a hand spring. Well, did the Ruger style coil spring conversion thing a ma jig, and I noticed how much smoother that made the action.
  4. One thing to do is not run heavy loads. Take it from somebody who likes to get 60grains of black into a space that holds 25grains. All that back pressure coming out the back can push the nipple off, which helps it stick to the hammer face, and sometimes gets into the works when cocking the next round. Meaning it gets stuck between the frame and the cylinder.
  5. How do you fix this 'ring'? My 1860s with Slix Nipples have this, almost crater like.
  6. Got these spurs way back in ‘06, never used them. They have CSC stamped on the inside so I guess they’re from Colorado Saddlery. They come with two sets of boot straps. $40 Shipped.
  7. Will these be for Uberti, original Winny's, Miruko's, or all three?
  8. Real black or APP is my suggestion.
  9. hmmmm........ Barley Pop Bill Loose Change Critter T Longshot
  10. I have been told by a few people over the years that cookie wads will ooze under the pressure of seating the boolit, which why I don't use them. Now, are you talking strictly about these cookies? Cause I dont have problems with bp loobed boolits I rolled up a number of years ago.
  11. *****STAY AWAY FROM PYRODEX***** Pyrodex needs to be cleaned up immediately after a shoot otherwise your guns will rot and pit. I thought this was a myth till a seen a photo of a destroyed Ruger Old Army were the owner used Pyrodex and never cleaned it right away. Also, a shooter near me used Pyrodex for a monthly match, and had his shotgun chamber pitted after sitting for one day! I'm lazy, I don't clean my guns right away unless they're originals from way back when. Used APP in my C&B's in a match two weeks ago, just cleaned them up last night, cause I'm lazy, no pitting or damage of any kind. I like real black for that deep satisfying boom, and the sparks & flames. For subs I prefer APP, nice and smokey, but can be too smokey if you're facing the sun. APP in 2F is very very soft on the recoil, so soft in fact that it can play with your head since the gun don't move. Triple Seven is ok, not very smokey, has extra umpf to it. I recommend staying with 2F. People seem to like Black MZ, which is like $10 a pound from Sportsman's Warehouse. I never used it.
  12. Triple Tap. I've been using my Lee Dies for 44.40 since 2010 with no problems.
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