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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Pretty simple job, if one really wants to do that. Gun gets more expensive and painful to shoot! But Joe Alves at Pioneer Gun Works is up in your neighborhood and might be able to handle that. Also, Randy Redman in Omak, WA does great barrel work. http://www.pioneergunworks.com/ https://redmansrifling.com/ I'd trust either to get it just right. good luck, GJ
  2. Went by a Hobby Lobby today. The cheap set (which works fine) was $10. I picked up that set as a backup for my other two sets Not to put too fine a point on it! You can do well with just these pencils - 4B - 6 Brinell - 30-1 lead-tin 3B - 9 Brinell (great for cowboy, and semiautos below 1000 FPS) B - 12 Brinell wheel weights (Old alloy; modern will be softer)) F - 16 Brinell - 6 Sb - 2 Sn commercial alloy H - 20 Brinell water quench Wheel Weight - about right for moderate cast rifle slugs 2H - 24 Brinell - water quench 6/2 alloy - high velocity
  3. Several folks have developed something very cheap. Search Cast Boolits "lead alloys" forum for testing with drawing pencil sets. A $20 set from Hobby Lobby or Michaels or other art supply store will test bullets for you for next 20 years. The set come with different hardness marks. The Cast Boolits forum gives you a conversion from art-pencil hardness to Brinell hardness. It's just about as accurate as my Cabine Tree hardness tester. good luck, GJ
  4. Soft bullets (Brinell 8 or 9) are PLENTY hard enough for our loads. If you are leading at cowboy game velocities, you are shooting a bullet that is too small and/or lubed (or coated) badly. Of course, when we shoot a game where accuracy largely does not matter, you can shoot almost any hardness of cast bullets and still be on the steel. How hard is that? Still soft enough to scratch a groove with the edge of a fingernail if you press hard. Now, since commercial casters have to make slugs that will work (no leading) at magnum velocities and pressures - about all they want to
  5. Shot in size 9 will work fine. As close as we shoot targets with shotguns, the pattern will be the size of a saucer, and you will never know the difference from #7.5 good luck, GJ
  6. RCBS handles are built even better than the 2 mentioned above, and will usually fit Lyman molds. Lyman makes two sizes of handles. one to fit 1 and 2 cavity molds, and one to fit 4 cavity molds. Saeco/Redding handles are out there (very high quality), but fit only Saecos unless you grind on the tangs. Be aware of what you are buying. Looked at Lyman's own catalog on-line https://www.lymanproducts.com/mould-handles and the picture they show looks exactly like a Saeco handle. Perhaps they are farming out handle production to Saeco/Redding and ensuring that
  7. They will make great sporting clays or trap ammo! good luck, GJ
  8. Yep, if you are a little careful, a primer can be tapped out or punched out with sizer/decapper die without setting it off. Been doing that for 45 years. Wearing good eye protection is a minimum when doing that. good luck, GJ
  9. But they made so few that few of us have ever seen one. I would bet at least they used high-alloy steel in the frame and bolt and links. They use lower-strength (high-carbon only) steels for those same parts in the regular 73s. Do NOT expect to run 40,000 PSI like a .44 Mag can in a .357 mag rifle, unless it's a Win 92 or 94 design. Good luck, GJ
  10. Yeah, once you shoot a cowboy match, you will realize you don't need OR WANT to shoot .357 magnum factory loads at one. good luck, GJ
  11. If your lizard litter is dusty, you need a used dryer sheet in your vibratory bowl. No more dust and cleaner media afterwards, too. good luck, GJ
  12. I think you may have read too many old articles about the weakness of an original Winchester 73 action. And, there are no maximum SAAMI pressure limits. There are SAAMI pressure limits. And proof testing runs a little above that. You either buy factory ammo and reload to factory ammo specifications (from ANY good loading manual), or you hot-rod past those limits. Me, I'd stick to a Miroku built 73 in .357 magnum, currently made under the Winchester brand name. It would be tested to SAAMI factory .357 magnum ammo levels. Would be fairly slick right out of the box
  13. The standard spring weight for a 1911 recoil spring is 16 pounds. That would be much stiffer than the 11 pounder that you first tried. Bet that was what you should have used. good luck, GJ
  14. I really wish you would state the name of the powder consistently. Even in your last post, you mix TiteWad and TiteGroup. They are TWO DIFFERENT powders! In fact, looking this last reply over again, you also mention Red Dot as the shotgun powder, too. That is just plain dangerous for others to follow! good luck, GJ
  15. And remind ROs to keep the timer close to gun especially if muzzles are going through a window or door. Some of the standard velocity .22 ammo is really quiet. Avoid the Aguila sub-sonic ammo - several types of those are so slow they will stick/stack up in barrels! good luck, GJ
  16. And I believe the "approximately" applies to 1860, and the 1899 cutoff is a hard date. Perhaps a rules committee member would like to comment? As always, requests to your Territorial Governor would be a way to try to effect a rules modification.... Good luck, GJ
  17. I'll give you some "retail-used, excellent condition" prices and you can knock off from there. Dings, rust, damaged cavities or mating surfaces, heavy dirt or leading on molds, etc will be major deductions. Lyman 1 cavity - $50 Lyman 2 cavity - $60 Lyman 4 cavity - $80 Lyman handles around $15 Lee 1 cavity $10 Lee 2 cavity $20 Lee 6 Cavity $40 Lee handles around $8, but 6 cavity set about $15 The mold with a hollow base pin - if single cavity Lyman $60 Gonna have to get lucky to find someone who is a caster any mor
  18. It's not even a lot of reading to look up the use of primers. good luck, GJ
  19. As I understand the reasoning on Big Boy, it is considered a "commercial copy" of Marlin's 1894 design. THAT certainly was not my idea of good enough. But it has been our rule for several years. And just because it's legal doesn't make it viable and competitive. But a copy of a 1906 or an actual 1910 gun falls outside the date period allowed. good luck, GJ
  20. It was introduced by Marlin in 1910. I would expect it to be disallowed due to the rule in the Rifle Requirements section: Cool looking, seems pretty close to the Winchester 1906 pump rifle design. good luck, GJ
  21. Nope, fiber wads will work fine. They are (will be): * slower to load in a progressive loader (non-progressive is less of a problem, but still slower) * more likely to tip a wad during insertion , which can ruin a pattern or make crimp impossible to fold tightly * going to launch fiber in the air after a shot * harder to load a heavy load that shoots well without weak cores (but light loads are much easier) * shoot looser patterns in most guns * cost more than plastic wads any more, and harder to find But, they allow a load to be very adjustable to
  22. The roll crimp put on a brass hull is there just to enable easy entry into the chamber. The less you need there, the better the brass hull lasts. It will not shoot out for many rounds put through each hull. There are shell holders and sizing dies made by RCBS (iirc) to occasionally resize the fired hull in a single stage press. You WILL NOT successfully resize in a progressive shotgun press! Elmer's glue, carpenter's glue, PVA glue, water glass (real name is sodium silicate made into a gel with a little water), hot glue - all will shoot out of the hull when the wads and shot pa
  23. If you publish your loads for an international audience, you should abbreviate GRAINS with "gr". An abbreviation of just "g" is grams. Big difference. You measured powder to the hundredth of grain? Why, and how - a Mettler balance? good luck, GJ
  24. Messy? It's fine grained and tends to leak out of measures a bit. But it shoots very clean in cowboy cartridges and 12 gauge shotgun target loads. And about as accurate as a pistol powder can be. good luck, GJ
  25. Have used 5.2 grains ClayDot and 200 grain bullet to get Wild Bunch PF. Shot accurately too. Clay Dot is really good in cowboy .38 special loads too. Just those pesky little primers. good luck,, GJ
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