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Does anyone use an skb 280 for sass?


Doc Coles SASS 1188

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I prefer an English stock double over a pistol grip.  I like the look of the SKB 280 (though I would get rid of the beaver tail forearm in favor of a sliver forearm as used on the 100).  However, I understand that the 280 came with ejectors.  Can they be converted to extractors and has anyone done this for sass shooting?  

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We have pristine a 280 in the safe as a backup. The action work was done by Johnny Meadows, which includes the removal of the ejectors, as is routinely done with the 200E. Our match sgs are SKBs from JM, Squeaky shoots a 100 & I use a 200E, and have served us well for over 10 yrs. There is/was some concern about the 280 & the English stock in that SASS shooters can be purty rough on their shotguns, especially during restaging. The concern has been whether the thinner stock can hold up to all that abuse without breaking.

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Glad to hear going to extractors can be done on the 280.  I am not that Worried about the strength of the wrist.  For years I shot an original English hammer gun for sass that with a far thinner wrist than the skb and managed not to break it.  

 

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I've been shooting  SKB 280 for about 3 years and love it, I wish I could afford another one just to have as a back up.

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Great, thanks.  As in most things, it's a matter of taste.  I like a lighter shotgun with a straight stock.  I don't understand why they put a beaver tail forend on it, but that can be changed.  I also like the 26 inch barrel (I have never liked coach guns as the don't point well).  If there is enough meat in the barrels, I would have them cut for screw in chokes.   With a little tuning (not a full sass tune), it would be a good gun for sass and upland game. 

 

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10 hours ago, Doc Coles SASS 1188 said:

There is some aftermarket wood available but I would think there Is someone with the sliver forearm that would like a beaver tail.  

 

Doc,

 

I'll be willing to trade you even up if you get the 280.

I have a Splinter but prefer the beavertail.

 

Just let me know.

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20 minutes ago, Judge'm All Duncan, SASS#67320 said:

 

Doc,

 

I'll be willing to trade you even up if you get the 280.

I have a Splinter but prefer the beavertail.

 

Just let me know.

JAD, Doc

If you trade you will each more than likely need to keep your main forend hardware (the exposed "chocking piece") but see than each gets the "push rod shaft for that particular piece.  280 beaver will require long one where splinter will need short one.  I have a splinter converted from beaver and I bought the appropriate front portion to attach to beaver's "cocking piece" .  hope that makes sense.  This would possible only apply to exposed hardware that has match engraving to is attached component.  Exposed forend hardware from 100 might not be as fancy as hardware from 200E, Royal, etc.

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1 hour ago, Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator said:

JAD, Doc

If you trade you will each more than likely need to keep your main forend hardware (the exposed "chocking piece") but see than each gets the "push rod shaft for that particular piece.  280 beaver will require long one where splinter will need short one.  I have a splinter converted from beaver and I bought the appropriate front portion to attach to beaver's "cocking piece" .  hope that makes sense.  This would possible only apply to exposed hardware that has match engraving to is attached component.  Exposed forend hardware from 100 might not be as fancy as hardware from 200E, Royal, etc.

Billy is spot on. My first SKB was a 100 with a splinter forend. As I stated earlier, I shoot BP and the barrels will get hot enough to blister fingers and thumb. I made a large forend (I do stock work), but had to use model 200 hardware because the larger forend is longer. You can replace a beavertail forend with a splinter, but will need the model 100 hardware.

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Thanks for the advise on what needs to be changed and what does not.  

 

I have shot shot a lot of bp in sass.  As I mentioned I used to shoot an original English Damascus barreled hammer gun the required it.  To deal with the heat issue, I have a spring steel and leather sleeve that slides over the barrels to keep your hand from touching them when they are hot.  They were commonly used in England during the bp era and are still made (I bought mine new from an English gunshop).  

 

I have no no idea if it is sass legal these days, but no one ever complained when I used to use it.  

 

I any case, one of the reasons I am looking to buy an skb is so I can stop having to use bp all the time.  Recently I have been shooting a tuned 97 and sometimes an 1887, but I like a double better.  I don't use my old double anymore because of the tendency of Damascus steel to rust at the welds and fail, often with catastrophic results.  

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2 hours ago, Big Sage, SASS #49891 Life said:

Billy is spot on. My first SKB was a 100 with a splinter forend. As I stated earlier, I shoot BP and the barrels will get hot enough to blister fingers and thumb. I made a large forend (I do stock work), but had to use model 200 hardware because the larger forend is longer. You can replace a beavertail forend with a splinter, but will need the model 100 hardware.

MORE....If one's forend hardware does not particularly match the receiver in engraving or buyer/selller does not have preferance, it is possible that one will just snap on one gun to other and work.  I have been fortunate to have a few shotguns where forends "interchange", but that is certainly not always case.,  

Sassy has a Royal I just obtained that had pretty wood including beaver forend.  I really did not want to have this wood cut for her LOP plus she prefers splinter, so I was able to find used butt stock and splinter to install for her.  Splinter accepted the hardware with exception of "rod".  We obtained a short rod mechanism and attached it to main hardware to make splinter fit.  

As OS mentions Beaver is nice with us BP shooters, but some of those leather sleeves are very nice also, whether a BP shooter or just prefer a larger grip on forend.

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