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Doc Coles SASS 1188

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Everything posted by Doc Coles SASS 1188

  1. I am looking for a 44-40 Colt barrel that will fit a first or second generation Colt single action. I am more interested in finding a barrel in good condition than a specific barrel length. Send me a PM and let me know what you have.
  2. Every range and/or club should have a gunshot trauma kit on hand. It could save lives.
  3. There were different makers of these over time and the parts vary a bit. I have adapted Italian parts and made entirely new parts for 2nd gen gun’s and originals. I just made a hand from scratch for my original 1862 police. I have a pair of tuned ASM 1860s that have original Manhattan bolts in them. 25 years and still ticking. As for uberti making parts for the second gen Colts, decades ago a pal ordered some 1860s from uberti for cavalry reenacting. They came in uberti boxes with the standard uberti finish, marks etc, but the barrel roll marks were for the Colt. I think they were over-runs or were grabbed out of the wrong bin.
  4. Lots of ways to go here. In general, I would not recommend anything from CVA. They don’t use good steels and they are not durable. I would not recommend a brass frame anything as they are less durable than steel frame guns (but to each his own). The Ruger old armies are extremely durable but they are expensive, no longer made, and not really period guns. As such, they don’t interest me. The 2nd gen Colts are very good, but they are pricy and there are no spare parts. I like the current Uberti’s better than the Piettas. I think the finish is better, though I have both. The biggest issue for the Italian guns is poorly made springs. I view them as spring kits. You can make them into pretty good springs by filing and polishing them. In any case parts are readily available. I have 1858 Remington's, 1860 armies, a Paterson, Walkers, and am currently looking for some colt 2nd gen 1851s. I like the solid frame of the 1858s and it’s nice to be able to change cylinders. But I don’t like the grip very much. Paterson’s are not practical. The walkers (and dragoon’s) are cannons. Fun to shoot but very heavy. The 1851s have the same grip as the SAA, which is nice. They are very handy and the .36 is frugal to feed. But my favorites are the 1860 colts. They point extremely well and the .44 is powerful enough to knock things over if needed (pretty rare on SASS stages). I like them so much I also have 1860 conversions and 1872 open tops. I agree that you should hold and shoot as many different cap and ball guns as you can. None of the guns available are perfect. They will all have a down side or need work of some type. You just need to find the one you like best. After that, have fun.
  5. Here are a couple. All of them were engraved by my dad. The Henry with the rough engraving is a copy of one owned by a relative who was awarded the Medal of Honor in the civil war. It hurt dad to copy engraving that bad!
  6. Also make sure that the ffl will accept shipped guns from private parties. Some will not.
  7. Lots of opinions, lots of good advice. But it comes down to what you want to do and what your dream is. 45-70 is a good choice for a lot of things. Components are easy to get, good load data exists, and they are always in demand so they have good resale value. As noted above, there are some other good calibers, you just need to compare what they have to offer with what you want. Personally, I chose a business rifle in 45-90 and duplicated a specific original rifle I liked in 50-70 (both Shiloh). I also have a Garret cap-lock carbine. They are not mainstream, but I like them and that’s what counts. Now if I only had time to shoot them, but that’s a different problem.
  8. You need to figure out and fix what is binding. Is the arbor oversized? Are there burs in the arbor hole? Are the pins misaligned? Forcing it on and off if it is too tight is not a good solution and will further damage the gun. My advice is to fix the base problem. Since the gun is new, I would see about getting it fixed under warranty.
  9. I love shooting big bore rifles in matches. I have used my 86 carbine in 45-70 and a uberti 1876 in 45-75. I have an 1886 deluxe (built in 1888) in 45-70 on the way and can’t wait to use it in a match. I save the big bore single shots for plainsman. Back in the 80s and 90s, there was a great match at the Chabot Range in the East Bay (near San Francisco) that shot both big-bores and pistol caliber rifles on the same targets at 50 to 75 yards. If you hit them anywhere with a 45-70 they flew over. If you hit them on the top half with a potent 45 LLC or 44-40 they flopped over. If you hit them anywhere with a 38, they just stood there. It was a simple way of making folks shoot full house loads. Not SASS, but lots of fun. It was a monthly match that went on for years.
  10. Here is a shot of the gun with the paint stripped from the grips. I used a chemical stripper with no abrasion so it didn’t change to wood at all. The parts in the background are for a nice 1862 pocket police that I just built a new hand for.
  11. Just wanted to say how happy I am with the gun. It is all matching, including the grips (which had been painted for some reason). The Jersey Kid and his nephew were great to deal with.
  12. Jersey, I will take it. Pm me your contact information so we can work out the payment details. Doc
  13. I will take the 38-55 dies and brass. Send me a pm with payment information.
  14. This video raises a lot of questions but does not provide many answers. What was the issue that caused this?
  15. I shoot full cases of bp with a 535 grain bullet in my 45-90 and a 500 grain bullet in my 50-70, both using SPG lube. I think I am getting enough case expansion. I don’t use lube cookies, but I could look into it.
  16. Do other folks Sharps rifles not kick the brass out when you flip the lever down? Both my Shilohs do. Original 1885s do this as well if you flip the lever down with your thumb. My problem doing rapid fire with a Sharps is chamber fouling, which makes it tough to get rounds in after a few shots.
  17. Call the seller and get them to take it back and refund your money if you can. These are not that rare and it would have to be very cheap indeed to make it worth the repair bill.
  18. I have been shooting CAS for more than 30 years. I have always enjoyed the competition aspect, but I do think that over the time I have been in the sport there has been a larger focus on winning at all cost, which in my opinion is not very interesting. But, at its heart, I think the sport is really about the people. SASS folks are generally great, but it can be hard to find really good friends to shoot and hang out with. But they are out there. Spend some time looking and shooting SASS could get more fun.
  19. This topic is pretty clearly about stage conventions, which the section of the rule book you quote clearly states can be overridden by the stage descriptions. I don’t think whether you have to knock down all the shotgun targets or not on a stage or for a whole match has much to do with safety rules, but hey these days who knows.
  20. A convention is not a rule and I have shot stages that have no shotgun make ups specified. How the stage is shot is defined in the stage directions. My point was simply that I do whatever the stage calls for. I don’t see a problem either way.
  21. It’s dealer’s choice. If the stage directions say shoot em till they fall, I do. If it says no make ups, I do that. Not a big deal either way. One thing no make ups has going for it is that it gets shooters though a stage faster, if that is an issue for a match.
  22. An engraved 2nd gen SAA with checkered ivory grips, two engraved Henry’s and an 1866. The middle Henry is a copy of the one owned by a relative, Captain Samual Hymer, who was awarded the Medal of Honor in the civil war.
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