Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Doc Coles SASS 1188

Members
  • Posts

    918
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Doc Coles SASS 1188 last won the day on August 30 2018

Doc Coles SASS 1188 had the most liked content!

About Doc Coles SASS 1188

  • Birthday 02/13/1964

Previous Fields

  • SASS #
    1188
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    River City Regulators (#7), Alaska 49rs, NRA Life Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
  • Interests
    Historical Archaeology, American History,

Recent Profile Visitors

3,654 profile views

Doc Coles SASS 1188's Achievements

306

Reputation

  1. I am working on a restoration of an 1883 Colt Cavalry/Artillery model issued to the 7th cav in 1888. Some idiot nickel and gold plated it. They also engraved the cylinder, so I need to replace it. I am looking for a first generation cylinder from the 1880s or ca. 1900. Either one would be proper for an artillery model rebuilt for the Philippine Insurrection. I am looking for a cylinder in good mechanical condition, without rust or pitting. The notches need to be good, but the finish does not matter as it will be reblued as part of the restoration. I am looking in a number of places but thought I would ask here. Let me know if you have anything you think would fit the bill if you are willing to part with it.
  2. I have a 66 uberti carbine in 22 and have been looking for a uberti 73 in .22 for a long time. The 73s are a lot harder to find and I would grab that over the 66 if it were between the two. Winchester actually made a 73 in .22, no such 66. The 73 is rarer and probably worth a bit more than the 66. I cover all the options you mention except for the 73 in .22.
  3. I have one of those somewhere for my original alias, “Cole Thornton” from the 80s. Mistakes were made and I had to change my name…
  4. I live in Anchorage and have never heard of them. Also, no one who claims to sell things at the “best price” is based here. The shipping costs are too high.
  5. Many years (25 or so) ago I had a 3rd model Russian rebuilt by a smith in Maine. I think it was called liberty antique gun works, but I could be wrong. I checked and can’t seem to find him on line. In any case, I got his name from Smith and Wesson when I called them. They told me they didn’t work on their old stuff but that this guy was who they recommended for fixing break-tops. So, you might try calling them to see if they have someone they would recommend. Failing that, someone here might know who to send you to. Good luck.
  6. Now back to the original topic. I have a Uberti Henry and one of the US made Navy Arms ones, not a Henry brand one but I think the mechanics are pretty similar. If all you want is a shorter barrel I think you could pull the barrel, cut the magazine back with a hacksaw and file (to reduce the amount that has to be turned down and reduce chatter) then turn it between centers on a lathe to get the correct round section at the front of the barrel for the rotating section, then cut the barrel back appropriately and drill a dimple in the correct spot for the.screw that keeps the cap/front sight piece on. Reblue the barrel and screw it back on, no need to do anything to the chamber. Theoretically it’s not that hard, though I don’t know how much chatter you would get turning on the lathe with the magazine hanging off one side.
  7. On the other hand, I have a 66 carbine in 44-40 that I bought for $50 when it’s owner brought in into my shop after shooting a 44 spl in it. The case split and blew gas and brass fragments back into his face. The gun locked up and he was convinced that it was ruined. I looked it over an thought it was likely repairable. After buying it, I took it apart and drove the split case out. When reassembled it was fine. The 44 spl has a lot more pressure than .44 Russian, but is the same diameter. Even if the case does not split the first time, firing 44 Russian in the 44-40 chamber will blow it out and if you reload it will have to be squeezed back down to size, which stresses the case and will lead to case failure eventually. No reputable smith, gun shop, gun or ammunition manufacturer, or frankly any responsible shooter would recommend shooting the wrong ammunition in a gun (yes I know that some rounds are functionally interchangeable but that’s not what I am talking about).
  8. The case diameter at the base for 44 Russian is .457. The case diameter at the base for 44-40 is .471. That’s a big difference. I would never shoot 44 Russians out of a 44-40 and would never advise others to do so, especially in a rifle where the blow by is close to their eyes. Shooting the wrong cartridge in any gun is always asking for trouble.
  9. Interesting. I have used lead remover cloth to remove rust and blue, which works quite well. It works but is not instantaneous, which allows you to control how much is removed. it sounds like a good place to start. I am going to search for the parts needed (particularly a proper cylinder) before I getting going on the gun.
  10. I won’t put out a price, but you need a factory letter to properly price this. I own a very similar gun and can tell you the pistol grips are surprisingly rare in the 1886. It is uncommon to have a non checkered pistol grip with what looks like fancy wood (2x or so based on the pictures). I also see sling swivels which were a factory option. It is in the most desirable caliber which is nice. It is a special order gun. If all the features letter as factory original that is a valuable rifle. If not, the price drops considerably.
  11. I picked up the 1902 colt today and it was nicer than it looked in the pictures, which is always nice. I am quite pleased with the fast shipping and smooth sale. Wallaby Damned is a good guy to do deal with.
  12. I have had Trumbull do work for me in the past. I think Dave Lanara does better work on cavalry colts.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.