John Boy Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 For each screw of a 38/357, what is purpose for proper adjustment? * Bolt Pin * Cartridge Guide * Carrier Screw - both sides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G W Wade Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Believe tight is proper answer. Screws hold parts in, not adjust. GW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Ron Wayne Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Believe tight is proper answer. Screws hold parts in, not adjust. GW +1 :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 Not getting anywhere are we? Hello Nate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Occasionally the Bolt Pin Stop Screw (Which is actually just a plug) will protrude too far through the frame and interfere with the smooth operation of the action. If that happens remove the crew and using a little 400 grit sand paper shorten the screw slightly. Otherwise all screws should be tight. Same applies to the right side as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Occasionally the Bolt Pin Stop Screw (Which is actually just a plug) will protrude too far through the frame and interfere with the smooth operation of the action. If that happens remove the crew and using a little 400 grit sand paper shorten the screw slightly. Otherwise all screws should be tight. Same applies to the right side as well. Yep. Are ye wantin' the torque specs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 Griff, if you have the torque. I have not found any source reference for them - Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Griff, if you have the torque. I have not found any source reference for them - Thanks There is a standardized set of torque specifications for each SAE or USS thread pitch, material, and screw/bolt size. Here's one such source: Federal Screw Products Torque Specifications. Be advised, that as noted above, the bolt/lever pin screw cover needs to be long enough to keep the pin out of the guide, and short enough not to interfere with the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 JB, Unfortunately most firearm manufacturers neglect to provide this data even when asked directly. The problem with bolt and screw torque tables for fasteners especially very small ones is that the material the fastener is made of, the physical design of the fastener, thread pitch, cut of the thread, are the the threads are dry, oiled, or coated with a thread locking compound, length of thread engagement, and a whole host of other variables can vary the torque specification by as much a factor of 10. Add to this that screws of the sizes above need to be torqued in inch-ounces not inch-pounds so maintaining even a 10% tolerance is heavily dependant on your technique and the length of the bit you are using. The strength of the fastener is highly dependant of how good of a job the manufacturer did on maintaining design specifications. the smaller the fastener the greater the chance for error in machining. My answer would to get yourself a torque screwdriver rated for less than 16 inch-ounces inch ounces, some similar size screws and nuts in a assortment of materials including mild steel, brass, aluminium and stainless steel and experiment to see how much torque you apply without the wrench using the 1 click of the wrist vs what you can find listed in torque tables using the wrench. Experiment with the recommended torque vs the torque required to damage the fastener. Keep in mind that there are over a dozen different grades of steel. Same is also true of aluminium and brass. Each grade/alloy composition will have a different yield strength. With firearms determining the strength of the metal is all but impossible without access to a metallurgical lab. It is doubtful that the manufacturer will provide this information. Bet you are surprised by what you learn. Keep in mind that when it comes to torque values this low that the tools are not going to be inexpensive. Expect to pay a hundred dollars or more for an inch-ounce torque screwdriver. Also these tools cover very limited ranges so you will likely need 2 or 3 different wrenches. Here especially you get what you pay for and dropping it just once can invalidate the calibration. This is why thread locker is so widely used on firearms. Allows you to snug down the fastener without danger of over torquing yet still have the fastener remain in place. After years of experience working with with fasteners smaller than 1/4 of an inch. If the manufacturer did not publish a torque specification; learn to have a calibrated wrist and let locktite be you ally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid Rich Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 EASY to tell on the bolt pin stop screw. If you get it to far in you either cannot lever the gun or it will be difficult. kR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Occasionally the Bolt Pin Stop Screw (Which is actually just a plug) will protrude too far through the frame and interfere with the smooth operation of the action. If that happens remove the crew and using a little 400 grit sand paper shorten the screw slightly. Otherwise all screws should be tight. Same applies to the right side as well. EASY to tell on the bolt pin stop screw. If you get it to far in you either cannot lever the gun or it will be difficult. kR True that. For some reason Rossi can't seem to drill that hole to the right depth. About half the guns I get here have this problem. With some you can remove some from the tip of the plug screw. But, some are so deep the actual threads will bind the bolt and the head is way below the receiver. So it's not the plug screws, it's the hole in the receivers. For the really bad ones I make a washer to space it out flush with the side. As for torque specs I have never seen any info from Rossi. Probably because some of their screws are so brittle if you tighten them too much half the heads will snap off. As for thread locker, use the 222 LocTite, the purple one. Loctite only recommends using the blue for screws 1/4" or larger. If you use it on the smaller typical gun screw you won't get it out with out some heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 Gents - have to thank all for the answers: tight and get a torque screwdriver ...to get educated! Torquing screws on all my firearms has never been within the table of science - but it makes total sense And Nate - thanks for the 222 purple Loctite tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flint N. Steele Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 Rossi's stainless screws are pretty soft.See if you can guess how I know. . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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