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BP in a '92


German Jim

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Is it hard cleaning a '92 that's been shooting real BP? Using a bottle-necked cartridge of course. Maybe .38WCF or .32WCF. I shoot a '73 now, and I only take the side plates off every 18 months or so. Its always pretty clean inside. Just wondering how to look at the inards of a '92.

 

 

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If you shoot a bottle necked case with Black Powder, and the neck expands to seal the chamber, all the fouling should be in the barrel and not in the action.

With the use of Modern non-mercuric primers, which were the Enemy of Rifle Bores, cleaning can even wait a day or two. Black Powder didn't do the damage as much as not a thorough cleaning after shooting Old ammo with Mercury in the Primers. It pitted the bores when left unattended.

 

Jake

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Take the butt stock off and spray the action down with Windex w/Vinegar. Run a toothbrush around the insides. Flush again with Windex.

Blow it out with compressed air and lube it up with "Borebutter".

Go have fun...

LG

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Take the butt stock off and spray the action down with Windex w/Vinegar. Run a toothbrush around the insides. Flush again with Windex.

Blow it out with compressed air and lube it up with "Borebutter".

Go have fun...

LG

Great advice! Could read pretty much the same for any gun that you wanted to blow BP through for out game.

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With the use of Modern non-mercuric primers, which were the Enemy of Rifle Bores, cleaning can even wait a day or two. Black Powder didn't do the damage as much as not a thorough cleaning after shooting Old ammo with Mercury in the Primers. It pitted the bores when left unattended.

Common confusion about 2 of the components of turn-of-the-century to mid 20th century primers.

 

Mercury in old style primers weaked brass cases.

It was the potassium chlorate in primers that pitted rifle bores badly.

 

For a GREAT review of that history, see:

 

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/primer.cfm

 

Good luck, GJ

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I shoot both smokeless and BP in my 92.

 

To clean after BP.

 

The 92 it only requires removing 1 screw to remove the butt stock. Using a spray bottle with hot water and dish soap, I spray the action while opening and closing until the water runs fairly clear.

 

Then to rinse the action of all the soap, I have a large pot of boiling water I dunk the open receiver in and out of several times. Keeping the fore stock out of the water.

 

Now the trick is to have a can of WD-40 liquid ready. The spray works but I prefer a can I can dunk the receiver in and completely amerce the metal. Getting WD-40 on the wood isn't a bother.

 

The boiling water will evaporate quickly. If left to dry, the metal rusts almost immediately. So I put the receiver from boiling water directly in to the WD-40. No rusting at all.

 

I then let the receiver drip dry for an hour or so before I lube with oil and/or grease. Once this is completed, I put the butt stock back on.

 

I only do this after using BP. No need with smokeless. Just flood with WD-40 until it runs clear.

 

The rifle I am using now is the same rifle I have been using in cas since 1992.

 

I guess you can use and other light oil after the boiling water bath if you want.

 

 

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I live in SE Texas not far from the Gulf and with the humidity here I can watch thing rust. I shoot BP almost exclusively for CAS and one of my guns is an original 92 made in 1895. At the range, I use a 10 to 1 mix of Balistol and water in a spray bottle to keep thing loose in all my guns and when I`m through for the day I spray them all inside and out one last time because sometimes I don`t get around to cleaning for several days. All this does is keep the fouling loose and oily until I can clean the guns.


When it`s time to clean I use two primary products that are readily available. I use Windex Multi-Surface Cleaner with Vinegar. This is the clear Windex but regular Windex will work if you add some vinegar. The vinegar is important because it is slightly acidic and helps neutralize the salts in the BP. I have tried some of the other methods that don't use the neutralizing agent such as vinegar and the do OK for short term storeage but eventually the left-over salts will cause rust.

The next product that I use is Brake parts Cleaner available from AutoZone. This stuff is
the same as BC Gunscrub but alot cheaper.
For a 92 rifle, take the butstock off and you will want
to remove the magazine plug, the mag spring and follower. With the Windex, spray inside and out working the action, use a rod and brush in the barrel and mag tube. Use the the windex and a tooth brush to wash everything out working the action till it runs clear. I have a sink in my shop and to speed things up, I run hot water through it, too. The heat helps dry the gun faster.

 

The next step is spray it out until it runs clear with the Auto Zone brand Brake parts cleaner. This will displace any left over water but it will also completely dry the gun of all the oils so you will need to oil it. For gun oils I don't have a preference other than it should be a spray type oil. This is the best way to insure that the oil gets down in all the right places. I use WD-40 or Rem Oil. Some like to use straight Balistol. Spray it down dripping, on a rag stand it on it`s muzzle and let it drain overnight, wipe it down, put it back together and your done.

 

This sounds like a lot of work, but because I do this on a regular bases, I have an area in my shop just for this and it only takes me about 30 minute to clean two or three pistols, and one or two shotguns and rifles.



 




 

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The foul of black powder is comprised of potassium bicarbonate and a trace of potassium sulfide. The pH of the bicarbonate is 8.2, slightly higher than a neutral pH.of 7.0

 

Ok, ... I have two '92 Rossi's and both are 45 Colt, more blow back than a bottle neck caliber. One has about 14,000 black powder rounds shot. I have field stripped the rifle for cleaning twice.

Cleaning procedure:

* Hand steam cleaner sprayed in the bore and in the receiver port to remove all foul

* Brass brush and patched with Eezox

* Squirt of Eezox in the receiver, trigger assembly, on the magazine plug and inside the hammer

* Wipe the bolt rails and open action with a shop swab, then external metal with a shop rag coated with Eezox

 

That's It and both rifles were in 36" of salt water from Super Storm Sandy!

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