Presidio Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Well, it ain't really concerning Wild Bunch, but I do, or may, have a problem with my Kimber .45 1911. Let me say right off, I'm a fair hand at fixing my cylinder and lever guns.....but ain't worth Ahab's spit for working on automatics. So, I had made up some of my usual work/home loads, yes..for life other than SASS, of a 230 hollowpoint jacket with a recommended amount of Universal powder, using mixed brass and a Wolf Primer. Went out to test fire and had one in the chamber and with the clip removed. Son of a gun stove piped on me. Never done that before. So before I load anymore of these up or test fire anymore....Do I have a problem with my loads? With the gun? Or was this because I just had the clip out when I test fired that round? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tascosa, SASS# 24838 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Hi Pres... First let me ask you how you loaded the one round in the chamber. Never, ever drop a round into the chamber and let the slide go. This will wear the extractor out very quickly. Always load from a mag. I learned this the hard way. After my second extractor in less than 6 months the gunsmith show me how it wears out the extractor to do it this way. FRom the mag the rim slides up under the extractor and dropping the cartridge in the chamber first forces the extractor over the rim, causing wear.. I would experience stove pipes when I did it the wrong way, and after I started loading from a mag I have not had one stove pipe in 1,000's of rounds... give or take a few hundred.. Good Luck, Tascosa PS the part Im talking about (not sure if its the ejector or extractor) is the hook that goes over the rim of the cartridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subdeacon Joe Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Did it do it just the once? Why no magazine? Did you shove a round into the chamber and close the slide? Some automatics (as in Colt Automatic Pistol and Automatic Loading Pistol, before someone jumps on me for calling it an automatic), heck, some bolt actions, don't function well when you load other than from the magazine as designed. Try loading one into the magazine and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Presidio Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 Yup. I chambered the round from the mag - then dropped the mag with the rest of the rounds in it. Just wanted to test fire the one round at the time and didn't see the need to have the mag in the well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex Jones, SASS 2263 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 I think you're going to have to fire more than one round. Could be overall length, could be that piece of brass had a bad rim or some other reason. Is it a new pistol? Are the bullets and/or load new? If you used it for Wild Bunch, I assume that there were no problems with lead bullets/powder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Shoot some more. Any semi auto can have an occasional stovepipe. Could be a number of causes from a weak grip to a bad extractor to bad brass etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Presidio Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 I think you're going to have to fire more than one round. Could be overall length, could be that piece of brass had a bad rim or some other reason. Is it a new pistol? Are the bullets and/or load new? If you used it for Wild Bunch, I assume that there were no problems with lead bullets/powder. Checked my length against some "store bought" I have on hand and they matched. Pistol is "new" to me, but the pard I bought it from only run about 300rds out of it using 250gr RNFP & Black for SASS Modern. Don't know if he actually ran any jacketed ammo or heathen stuff out of it. Bullets are, of course, new...but brass is used and mixed brands. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- U.B, what do you mean by a "weak grip"? Me or the pistol? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Will fire a few more rounds with a full mag in place and see what happens then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Go buy a bx of factory "Hardball" and OIL that gun......... Does it have a plastic "sock-buf" on the recoil spring?? IF it does remove it. 250grn. bullets are awfull heavy for the .45acp, could the PO have installed a super heavy recoil spring maybe? For your .45acp powder switch to WW 231......PM me for load. When you say "stove-pipe" you do mean the empty/fired case does NOT clear the weapon. CORRECT? Respectfully, LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sneaky Gun Runner SASS 79775 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 My Kimber can be sensitve to "limp wristing" or what UB meant (I thnk). 1911's like to be held tight with your hand and wrist extended in line with the action. When I first started shooting SASS my USFA's were killing me by peeling skin off the inside of my thumb. I was using my semi-auto hold and not allowing the pistol to recoil as it was intended. I think you may be experiencing the other side of the phenomena by allowing the pistol to attempt to roll in your hand. This will cause the recoil pulse to stretch out to the point that the empty case does not strike the ejector with enough force to kick out. The extractor holds the shell in place as the slide attempts to return to battery and you have a stovepipe. If you had the magazine in you would have then learned about the tap/wrack/bang drill for clearing it. Load it up and lock that wrist in and see what happens. I am betting your problem go's away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 My Kimber can be sensitve to "limp wristing" or what UB meant (I thnk). 1911's like to be held tight with your hand and wrist extended in line with the action. When I first started shooting SASS my USFA's were killing me by peeling skin off the inside of my thumb. I was using my semi-auto hold and not allowing the pistol to recoil as it was intended. I think you may be experiencing the other side of the phenomena by allowing the pistol to attempt to roll in your hand. This will cause the recoil pulse to stretch out to the point that the empty case does not strike the ejector with enough force to kick out. The extractor holds the shell in place as the slide attempts to return to battery and you have a stovepipe. If you had the magazine in you would have then learned about the tap/wrack/bang drill for clearing it. Load it up and lock that wrist in and see what happens. I am betting your problem go's away. Yup. Has nothing to do with your interpersonal relationships. Lock your wrist and hang on tight. Some semi's will stovepipe of fail to feed otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Logan #12252 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 If you read the info that came with the Kimber, it will say it has a brake in period, forgot how many, but will take a few. If you are loading lite loads the main spring is not right. They come with a spring that will handle factory 230 ball, with that said if you put a lighter main spring in and shoot a lota full loades it will cause undu wear and hammer the gun on the back slide if the slide.. I service quite a few every month for a local outfitter, and find the main spring is key to preformance I just finished a 1911 in .460 Roland, what aw thumper, it takes at least a 22lb spring... But with that said I can fire it with triger finger thumb and social finger, with ring and little finger not on the grip,, If the gun is tumed and springs are propper you will get NO STOVE pipes.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Logan #12252 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 If you read the info that came with the Kimber, it will say it has a brake in period, forgot how many, but will take a few. If you are loading lite loads the main spring is not right. They come with a spring that will handle factory 230 ball, with that said if you put a lighter main spring in and shoot a lota full loades it will cause undu wear and hammer the gun on the back slide if the slide.. I service quite a few every month for a local outfitter, and find the main spring is key to preformance I just finished a 1911 in .460 Roland, what aw thumper, it takes at least a 22lb spring... But with that said I can fire it with triger finger thumb and social finger, with ring and little finger not on the grip,, If the gun is tumed and springs are propper you will get NO STOVE pipes.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Presidio Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 Thanky kindly fer the input, Folks. Ain't had a chance ta' run anymore through it today. Maybe I can this weekend. I'll let ya' know the outcome . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badlands Bob #61228 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Could be too heavy of a recoil spring but I suspect it may be the dreaded limp wrist syndrome if your trying to shoot it one handed. The paperwork with my Kimber said it would take about 500 rounds to break in the gun. Use good quality magazines. I found that mine likes the OAL to be 1.20". I was having feeding problems and finally bought a digital caliper. My loads were 1.27". I corrected the OAL and it runs fine now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowCatcher Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Thanky kindly fer the input, Folks. Ain't had a chance ta' run anymore through it today. Maybe I can this weekend. I'll let ya' know the outcome . Stove pipes happen from a few causes - 1. weak grip/wrist allowing the gun to move under recoil, 2. weak loads not moving the slide far enough back to allow the round to be ejected before the slide goes forward, and 3. too heavy a slide spring causing the gun to fail to cycle at the correct speed, These being the three most common. There are other potential issues, such as a bad extractor or ejector, but those are more likely to occur if a Kitchen Table Gunsmith has improved the gun. Stock Kimber stuff works pretty okay otherwise . . . . Make sure you have a standard 16# recoil spring, and that your loads are up to snuff, I assume you already know how to hold a pistol. My lead 200 LSWC loads for IPSC run 1.250 COL, and the ball ammo I buy is usually a bit longer . . . . but I use Colts . . . . Shadow Catcher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex Jones, SASS 2263 Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 I forgot to mention the 1911 site, www.forum.M1911.org. The site includes individual sections on almost all manufacturers. The Kimber site has a couple of threads on stove piping. The consensus on the site is that Kimbers need about 500 rounds to "break in". Some people have experienced this problem while others have not. Keep shooting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rye Miles #13621 Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 I don't wanna slam Kimber cause I've never owned one but the gun shop/range that I work at part time will NOT carry Kimber at all. The owner thinks they're overpriced and we've had several problems with the ones we sold. Jamming issues, parts breaking etc. Just my 2 cents. I've never had a problem with my Colt Series 80, I wanna git a Series 70 for WB. Rye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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