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Everything posted by Griff

  1. The .30-30 will only be legal for long range side matches, not for plainsman, which requires a traditional black powder cartridge. In addition, the 30-30 is not well suited to loading with BP if you were looking to shoot in a long range BP category. The "buffalo single shot" category requires a minimum .375" bore.
  2. 1 oz of shot & a #43 bushing full of 2F Goex in a AA hull. Takes down targets with authority. (As long as I can see 'em)! Anything heavier is overkill and aggravates my shoulder.
  3. For 35 years I've loaded on a Dillon 550B. Last year it finally gave up and I sent it to Dillon... received a new 550C! Love their no BS warranty! I did keep the RCBS Jr II I had been loading on, and upgraded it to a Rock Chucker and donated my old Jr to my B-I-L for his reloading needs.
  4. I installed a PGW Super Short stroke kit in my 1873 and a C45S carrier. I don't know that it's made me any faster, but... it sure makes working the lever less work!
  5. shoot slow and make up for it by missing often... sage advice. It is the guy with the highest score that wins, right?
  6. When you call Shiloh, ask what they have in inventory... they almost always have a few rifles that are unsold... they may not be exactly what you're looking for, but... you won't know if you don't ask. A friend of mine wanted a plain "business rifle" and they had one when he called, so he drove out to Big Timber from Seattle the next day. The last time I stopped in they had 7 or 8 hanging on the wall for immediate delivery.
  7. Another couple of considerations not mentioned: 1 - if you ever consider NRA BPCRS matches your rifle weight is limited to 12lbs 3 ozs. My Long Range Express in 40-90BN with a 30" bbl comes in one oz under max. When I ordered my rifle the plan was for SASS long range and hunting. But after seeing BPCRS I changed the wood to XXfancy and cut the bbl to 30" to make weight. Basically, I can't add anything to the rifle help manage recoil, so I simply have a shotgun buttplate. 2 -,you mentioned paper-patch bullets. They work best in a slightly longer chamber throat to accept the paper patch. Trying to paper patch bullets in a short grease groove chamber will be frustrating. 3 - know what weight bullet & velocity you want so you can optimize the rifling twist rate. More to discuss with Kirk or Lucinda. Like was said earlier, you will be pestered as soon as you set up & touch off a few rounds, especially at a public range. Even at our private gun club, if there's anyone on any of the rifle ranges, they'll usually stop by and ask questions, hoping to get an invite to shoot it! Don't offer that on a public range, they'll soon be lined up to help dispose of your ammo!
  8. Griff

    Corrosion X

    I'll be looking forward to your report... jb!
  9. I shoot slow and make up for by missing often... Ammo is ammo... either you shoot it or you save it for ??? You can eliminate pistol brass as a concern if you simply shoot Frontiersman. There, half your problems are solved. I feel better already! Need the other half solved? WHAT? You think I'm going to solve ALL your problems for you? Sorry, some things you're just going to have to tackle your-ownself!
  10. I haven't wondered about this question for a LONG time... And for the first 10 years I played this game... the rule was "no colored sights..." Yet, sometime between my 2000 SHB and the 2006 SHB, it was changed to read that various "natural" colored sights were legal. And while it didn't specifically allow painting of revolver sights, it did specifically state that sights colored match were legal. It makes me wonder where you've been hiding for at least the past 16 years?
  11. I have 3 p/us... a 2003 ½T Silverado, 65K on it... Worth every penny I paid for it... #2 a 2005 K3500 Silverado 4 dr dually. 92K, and still singing along... I am on my 3rd set of tires... An oil change once a year for both of these and I feel like they've been well maintained. Both have 4 wheel disc brakes and are on their second set of pads. #3 is arguably the best of the 3, but it hasn't been registered in over 22 years... It's been in the "I'll-get-round-to-it" category for that long. A 55-½ SW (small window) 3100, with a 427 & 4 spd... disc brakes up front, drum rear... some assembly still required... but patience is required, as cops near and far are forever stopping you... just to see/hear what's under the hood. "Warning tickets of all types, a mile deep... from unregistered, excessive noise, exhibition of ??? and no ins/safety inspection... "where're your bumpers man?" and all such nit-pickin' details..." Still looking for a set of '55 farm truck plates... hint, hint!
  12. If your water ain't scalding hot... just be ready to wipe and dry immediately... It does require a quick application of a preservative that will protect the metal from said flash rust... Or he's confusing the effects of Pyrodex to hot water. Ever since I quit using Pyrodex (abt. 1987), I haven't had an issue of rust after cleaning with plain old HOT water. If you can stand it running over your hands, it ain't hot enough...
  13. No LARP here... I've not found the reset or replay button.
  14. I'm just the opposite, I ALWAYS want a tiny amount of flair to any case getting a lead bullet. Absolutely ensures that you won't be shaving lead off the side of the bullet, and makes it MUCH easier to align the bullet on tops of the case.
  15. If I may be so bold as to offer a suggestion or two. 1 - Anneal your brass. And when you get tired of that, 2 - Take the carrier out and trim the sides. I put a piece of 150 grit sandpaper on a block of wood, 8-1/2" x 11" held in place with thumbtacks at the corners. Keep the carrier flat. The sides will come out parallel with uniform pressure. Slowly change to finer and finer sandpaper. Inuit at a out 1,000 grit. I took about .010" off per side. I can run either of my 45 Colt '73 Ubertis, or my 45 Colt 1860 Henry for a 12 stage 3-day day match & clean when I get home. I'll be taking my own advise this weekend for my C45S carriers! The carrier block needn't be a precision fit part. A little slop is your friend! 3 - What ever you do, do NOTuse a wet lube on it!
  16. Why Larsen, last week is a vintage, my Uberti Sporting Rifle is of a 1986 vintage... And I suspect someone coulda bubba'd a Winchester '73 into a 357? But otherwise I suspect you're spot on. I have seen some different angles and lengths to the ramp at the front of Uberti carriers, but in the main, they're fairly uniform. That '86 vintage has the longest ramp I've seen. It'll feed very short ammo.
  17. Griff

    .45 to .38?

    Hmmm... going from .45s to .38s... is kinda gamey... leaves me wonderin' how long it'll be before you're shootin' two-handed?
  18. At max length, to cycle thru the action will be 1.600", x 10 = 16.00", is your compressed spring & follower over 4" long? Your rifle may be different than anyone elses... My "Short Rifle" 1873 is only 18=½". But, FWIW, it holds 10 45 Colts, does NOT hold 11. (Also a 1.600" max length cartridge).
  19. Okay, you've read all the answers above, now here is unvarnished truth. You haven't provided enough information to get a succinct answer. Great cartridge, lousy choice in arms. Whether it's good choice for this game depends on a lot of factors, all in your court. I.e., do you already reload for it... in fact, do you already reload? THAT answer will probably change a bunch of the advice you may get. I'd probably discount any answers you get until that is known.
  20. BTW Big Boston, those Duck Unlimited brass shotshells from Remington are Berdan primed.
  21. I have 3 different toggle links in 45 Colt... they all take slightly different max overall length and function, so I just make my ammo to meet the requirements of the shortest of them.
  22. With ANY ammo under 1.600" in length you're having a round partially feed into the carrier block. When the lever is pushed forward, the block raises forcing that next round back into the magazine. 1.600" being the spec'd length of the carrier mortise.
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