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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. I would readily use a new drill bit (of quality US manufacture if you can find it). It would exceed the strength of the original, I'd wager. Good luck, GJ
  2. If the scrap yard won't pay "clean brass" prices for fired empty cases, ask them why. Fired cases are certainly cartridge brass made of the 30% zinc, balance copper alloy. Maybe there's mud on the cases - then offer to wash it next time. If they still refuse to pay it, ask if they will scan the brass with an x-ray diffraction scanner for an analysis. If they still try to play stupid, take it to a more reputable scrap dealer. About 1 in 3 of scrap dealers are honest all the time - just my findings from knowing a lot more about metals than their crews do. Another 1/3 of them are honest
  3. Looks more like a 20 gauge to me. Hurts on both ends!
  4. Hobby drones are prohibited in restricted airspace. And must yield right of way to standard aviation in unrestricted airspace. I believe there are now "professional " licenses that allow them to land at airports. Certificated Remote Pilots including Commercial Operators See these pages if you are REALLY INTERESTED in the details: https://www.faa.gov/uas/commercial_operators/ https://www.faa.gov/uas/recreational_fliers/where_can_i_fly/airspace_restrictions/flying_near_airports/
  5. I use TruOil or LinSpeed variants of boiled linseed oil with fast-drying additives. TruOil seems to dry in one day for each coat. LinSpeed about 2 days. Your humidity may vary. Good luck, GJ
  6. The other thing to be aware of - those drop figures quoted above are for factory velocity loads. Your cowboy loads WILL DROP MORE. Many competitors in that 10 shot side match will load a few rounds for the event up around factory velocity. Then, whatever sight you like, you will have a much easier time getting your gun sighted in, and less windage drift too. Good luck, GJ
  7. Shot Baikal 2 trigger guns for several years. Light loads. Firm grip on pistol grip. TIGHT mount of butt pad to shoulder. Check that length of pull is long enough for your body configuration. Goodluck, GJ
  8. I doubt that you will find .38 special harder to buy in the future than 9mm, say. If one of those is in short supply, generally the other will be too. Trying to guess this is sorta like day trading stocks. In the long run, you will be disappointed. Besides, the common rounds in rimless ammo are usually jacketed rounds, even FMJ. Not allowed in SASS. If you can in the future load lead rimless, you will be able to load lead rimmed cartridges. Good luck, GJ
  9. That 366 in the pic - came from a fellow Cowboy shooter who grew weary of trying to make it run. I have loaded on Bair Honey Bair, Mec 600 Jr, RCBS MiniGrand, and Mec Grabber. All of them are trashed or sold or stored since I started using the 366s. If one has the patience, it will be rewarded with a 366. But if you can learn to run one without losing at least 20 shot drops, you are a faster learner than I. Good luck, GJ
  10. Rubber washer on the top of the bar (actually a recess in bottom surface of the slide housing) only. Hornady has fresh parts, of course. You've probably got a hole chewed in the washer and a few pieces are sticking there until the machine is bumped hard enough to dislodge them. If that's not it, then see if the slide bar is making a FULL travel to the front after you complete the cycle. If not, bushing/slide may not be completely closing off the shot hopper. Be real careful and follow the instructions closely when putting the powder/shot measure assembly back together
  11. Hammer springs and firing pins - Browning Parts Center - https://www.browning.com/support/parts-service.html (even for some obsolete Brownings....) Brownell's - But FP seems out of stock right now Any good shotgun smith should be able to fit a new (larger) hinge pin and get the face back against the standing breech. General approach is as shown in this set of instructions: https://www.bevfitchett.us/repair-of-firearms/shotgun-repairs.html And turning a new FP should be a piece of cake for a shotgun smith.
  12. Shot dribbles out - you mean out of the crimp? Or down from the shot drop tube? That's a rather vague problem description. I'll assume it's shot coming out of the loaded crimped shell. Either crimp dies are set a little "high" on the shell, leaving a hole in the middle of the crimp for shot to get out. A hole can also mean component stack doesn't quite fill the shell. Or the crimp is opening after being formed, usually caused by the crimp plunger not being set low enough, or you have too much of a component stack that won't quite fit, and the crimp suffe
  13. I'd venture that if you did not have 2 years of SASS component supplies in stock when Covid and racial equality demands started (again), you are going to be short and have to wait for either loaded ammo or components to re-appear. My match attendance has tapered off for several reasons, but limited supplies in the pipeline are just a smaller one of those concerns. Good luck, GJ
  14. The US no longer produces lead in smelters that treat ore dug from the ground. (Primary smelters) BUT - The US is (I believe) the largest "producer" of recycled lead (AKA secondary lead). Lead is easily recycled to be just as clean as ore-smelted lead (primary lead). And we are a major importer of lead from the countries that do produce lead from ore - Peru, China, etc. A more direct impact to shotgun sports, though, is that there are fewer SHOT manufacturing plants in the US than there used to be. Waterfowl hunting can't use lead, so there went the demand for p
  15. Clean the slide, slide housing, and support plate thoroughly. While the slide is out, check that the primer cup stud is perfectly straight in the slide arm. And that the stud is inserted fully into arm so the groove in the stud catches the lock screw. It is easy for the stud to go a little sideways, which leads to primers not being centered in the case, catching the wall of primer, and turning it sideways. THEN reassemble the slide, support arm, etc. Start the two screws that hold the primer assembly on the frame by coming up through the housing from the bottom. But leave t
  16. Griff - Yes, a 366 can be tough to set up, especially when it's not set to factory settings before starting to tinker. I've set up 2 in the last year. First one almost made me toss tools. Second one, by following the manual instructions EXACTLY, and working gradually around from first station to the last, I got running fine in about 3 hours. One thing to do right off the bat is slice an opening at the station for powder drop. It's MUCH faster to set one up that has an opening there, because powder weight can be checked immediately, and a poor drop can be
  17. Breech is the rear of something (in firearms useage, its rear of a barrel). Breach is a breaking of a promise or contract, or to open a hole in something protective. So, a 73 has a breech block. (but, it's not wrong to call it a bolt either) Good luck, GJ
  18. On the serious note, St Marks (General Dynamics) in Florida makes all the Winchester label ball powder. I'm sure that the St Marks plant does not make primers. But, I'd assume Win primers are not made by G.D. I believe primers are made by Olin (who owns the Winchester ammo production). The use of Winchester trademark for powder was sold off to Hodgdon several years ago. And they continue to have St Marks make the Winchester powder line. Good luck, GJ
  19. Don't have the complete recipe for what's in Red powder. It was developed about 4 years ago, so it could be taking advantage of newest additives. It sure burns clean in shotshells. Loads to same weight as Red Dot in my experience - in shotshells. If that is REAL true also for pistol loads, you might just try starting with same weight you used with Red Dot. But that is a guess. Use your own readings of pressure and velocity and report to gauge whether it is suitable! And, I never give out bushing numbers because that varies depending upon your type of loader and h
  20. Couple of comments. It's usually the light load (7/8 ounce) that makes it worth while to load SASS shotshells. Light loads are notoriously hard to find in factory ammo. (No one but cowboys, youth and clays shooters seem to want them) That, plus IF YOU KEEP A GOOD SUPPLY OF COMPONENTS on had, you don't worry about having to run around looking for loads. I use Rem STS hulls for all my loads, too. Shuck better from doubles, and they last longer. Now that I have switched to IMR Red powder for my loads, I am getting an honest 15 loads per hull before the crimp gets ragged. Wi
  21. Ummm, the first diagram's pin that holds the bolt and FPE together would be #104. The #108 pin holds the extractor in the bolt. I know, small parts, adjacent almost, and the numbers are small too! Good luck, GJ
  22. The Smith Shop has those hardened lifter and lever spring screws - that is what I use. And the Smith Shop's lifter/lever springs, too. One really is miles ahead putting the VTI complete kit of hardened screws in as soon as you get your Uberti rifle. Saves several panic attacks as the soft factory screws wallow out one by one! And I replace the mag tube cap with one with a hex socket - so that won't bugger up either. Good luck, GJ
  23. I used to use 700-X for my C45S loads, until I streamlined down to WST for all my cowboy and WB ammo. 700-X works very fine! WST leaves slightly less fouling on the brass. Good luck, GJ
  24. Ummm, I'm still missing your address and desired form of payment! When I get that, I'll send out those funds. Unless you just want the money sent AFTER I get the magazines..... Usually an order made across Internet proceeds along this trail: step 1 seller providing his contact info and total price (which you have done on the price) and form of payment desired. step 2 Then the buyer sends funds to the seller, including buyer's shipping address so seller knows in one letter where money came from and where merchandise ships to. step 3 Then seller ships
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