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bright stainless finish

Irish Pat

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A buffer motor, wheels and stainless-steel compatible buffing compound in several grits, down to about 1200 grit.   Be aware of the extra glare/glint you get off the top of the slide and sights - might want to leave that in matte finish.  Brownells carries all that and probably still provides some great instruction sheets.  


A light touch is needed over any lettering and screw/pin holes to avoid washing and wallowing them out    If this is your first attempt at buffing, do something real cheap as your practice piece, then you'll find if you have the steady hands and patience needed to do a nice job.  Otherwise, there's several GUN finishing shops around your location that can do this for probably $200 or so.  But never let a bumper re-chrome shop touch one.


good luck, GJ

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Howdy Irish,


While a buffing wheel and a bunch of grits and polishing stuff are an idea; however, you must be very careful and proficient (nobody is lucky enough) to keep the flat areas of of the frame and slide dead FLAT! And don't break or round over the sharp corners. The foregoing requires some real skill or very specialized machinery like that used at the factory. My opinion is that this is not a project for the novice gun beater. Screw up the job and the gun will shoot as good as new, but will embarrass the shooter whenever it comes out of the holster. It will be quite costly I imagine, but I would leave the work to a well vetted gunsmith.


Don't hate me. That's just my opinion.

Rev. Chase

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I love a shiny gun! 

On a nice sunny day, I don't want a lot of reflection on the top of my guns.
That is why you will see some stainless guns that have what look like a frosted or sandblasted finish on some parts.

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I hate a shiny gun but I do know how to polish metal.  If you need to ask what you need you probably will not like the results of your 1st to 20th tries.  The flats on old slab sides are horribly difficult to do and the transition from the flat to the radius has made many men cry.  Good luck. 

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