The light primer strike drama ends (almost)

[Bearfoot Tracker]

If you have read/followed my two previous threads about the 20 Gauge AA factory ammo, and 20 gauge Stoeger extractor work, I believe it is all done .... NO MORE LIGHT PRIMER STRIKES. Time will tell.

 

I had bought a new Stoeger Uplander Youth for my wife, and I lightened the break open lever spring as she could barely push the lever (her hands and wrist were very week). After that, she still could not break open the gun so I sent it to a cowboy gunsmith for tuning.  Long story short ..... we were getting lot of light primer strikes (5-7 / box of shells) that I have been trying to resolve over the past month.

 

We just got back from the range. Shot 1.5 boxes of factory AA ammo, and 1/4 box of reloads. NO LIGHT PRIMER STRIKES.

 

What I think I have learned through this whole experience:

1. Immediately clean and lube the inner workings of your Stoeger SxS upon purchase, and test it out thoroughly before having any work done.

2. Shoot the gun a bit before having any work done to it .... the gun actions may lighten up over a little time shooting.

3. If you need to have it tuned, be specific with the gunsmith what you want done. There are YouTubes available as to what can be done (don't take off too much metal when polishing).

4. Do not lighten up the break open lever spring too much, it has other functions besides the break open lever.

5. I do not believe there is a need to bevel/funnel the entire chamber mouth of the gun (just the upper 1/3 of the chamber mouth to help in sliding the shells in from the top (others may disagree).

6. I do not believe there is a need to do any work to the extractor unless absolutely needed.

 

If you are having light primer strikes after the above is done, try these fixes one at time and test before moving to next:

1. Check the inside of the butt stock to make sure the hammers are not rubbing against the wood, and if so, sand the inside down a little.

2. And while you are doing the above, clean and lube the internal actions again.

3. Stiffen up the break open lever spring.

3. Make sure you do not have any open head space, and the gun is closing tightly, fix if needed.

4. Install extended SS firing pins.

 

After receiving back from gunsmith, this is what I did to the gun and tested after each step:

1. Installed extended SS firing pins. Still had light primer strikes.

2. Stiffened up break open lever spring a little. Still had light primer strikes.

3. Sanded a little off the inside of the butt stock. Still had light primer strikes.

4. Stiffened up break open lever spring a more, and installed some card stock washers on the extractor rod. Had less light primer strikes.

5. Installed e-clip on extractor rod (to resolve headspace issue), sanded more wood on stock, cleaned/lubed internal workings. NO MORE LIGHT PRIMER STRIKES.

 

If I was to do the above items again, I would have done them in a different order.

 

Thanks for everyone's suggestions on possible fixes, and things not to do next time around. It was appreciated.

 

 

 

[Waimea]

This is truly valuable information.

Thanks for sharing!

[Hellbender]

Glad you solved that problem!

[Rusty Marlin, SASS #33284]

Sounds like you had/have a long head space problem if holding the extractor back a little solved the light strikes, might want to have the headspace and firing pin protrusion checked.

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Keep an eye on your fix with the e-clip on the extractor rod.   Those are not a real strong chunk of metal, and may bend under use.  But, it sounds like it could turn out to be the cheapest solution to what was pretty obviously excessive headspace, as shown in your pictures with a straight edge.  Did you ever run a feeler gauge in that headspace gap to see how much you had without the e-clip installation?

 

good luck, GJ

[Bearfoot Tracker]

27 minutes ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

Keep an eye on your fix with the e-clip on the extractor rod.   Those are not a real strong chunk of metal, and may bend under use.  But, it sounds like it could turn out to be the cheapest solution to what was pretty obviously excessive headspace, as shown in your pictures with a straight edge.  Did you ever run a feeler gauge in that headspace gap to see how much you had without the e-clip installation?

 

good luck, GJ

GJ, I did not use a feeler gauge but the shells were  flush with the chamber top. With the e-ring, the extractor lifted the shells slightly but the shells seem to be set pretty solid in the chamber mouth. I honestly think it is good to go now. When the new extractor I ordered comes in, I will try it and see if I can ditch the worked extractor and e-ring.  Again, thanks for your help and might get to meet you in September.

[Bearfoot Tracker]

2 hours ago, Rusty Marlin, SASS #33284 said:

Sounds like you had/have a long head space problem if holding the extractor back a little solved the light strikes, might want to have the headspace and firing pin protrusion checked.

The headspace problem was just slight, and I don't believe the only cause of light primer strikes. The firing pin extrusion was fine as can be seen with the gun apart and the triggers pulled. The other issues causing the light strikes was I lightened up the lever main spring too much, and cleaning/lubricating the action. I had not done that since I bought the gun, and it was all pretty dry. After I did that, you could actually see the hammers drop a lot smoother and faster when I tested it with the butt stock off.

[Kid Rich]

The hammers rubbing on the inside of the stock was what caused our stogers light strikes many years ago, sanding fixed it. I had for gotten about that. It was easy to tell where they rubbed as it made the wood look polished.

kR

[Bearfoot Tracker]

Well it's not over yet. My wife took it to the match yesterday and had a light primer strikes on the first trigger pull on three stages. She quickly cracked it open again, and everything was fine on the following shots. Even with that issue, she had the fastest match she has ever had.

 

I on the other hand got my first MDQ on the first stage. I need to put the revolver on the table when I can't get that last round to fire, and not get frustrated and rushing those dropping it on the ground. 

 

I am going to start another tread to discuss the below since it is headed into a different possible fix.

 

This morning I took the firing pins, firing pin springs and holder bushing out. I took a small round file and ran through the bushing hole to take care of any rough spots or burrs that might have been there, and  cleaned inside good. Both springs seem to have the same amount of tension and I think fairly stiff for the hammer drop on this gun.

 

Has anyone ever lightened the firing pin spring slightly to help the hammer hit the pins a little harder? And if so, would it have a problem pulling the firing pin back in once breaking open gun to reset hammers? I was thinking if you could get away with this, it might help in some situations where either the hammer is not dropping as hard on one trigger pull vs another, or if the pin does get caught/rubbing in the bushing hole once hammer drops.

 

 

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

3 hours ago, Bearfoot Tracker said:

Well it's not over yet. My wife took it to the match yesterday and had a light primer strikes on the first trigger pull on three stages. She quickly cracked it open again, and everything was fine on the following shots. Even with that issue, she had the fastest match she has ever had.

 

I on the other hand got my first MDQ on the first stage. I need to put the revolver on the table when I can't get that last round to fire, and not get frustrated and rushing those dropping it on the ground. 

 

I am going to start another tread to discuss the below since it is headed into a different possible fix.

 

This morning I took the firing pins, firing pin springs and holder bushing out. I took a small round file and ran through the bushing hole to take care of any rough spots or burrs that might have been there, and  cleaned inside good. Both springs seem to have the same amount of tension and I think fairly stiff for the hammer drop on this gun.

 

Has anyone ever lightened the firing pin spring slightly to help the hammer hit the pins a little harder? And if so, would it have a problem pulling the firing pin back in once breaking open gun to reset hammers? I was thinking if you could get away with this, it might help in some situations where either the hammer is not dropping as hard on one trigger pull vs another, or if the pin does get caught/rubbing in the bushing hole once hammer drops.

 

 

Leave the FP springs alone.

Use a AN washer, and shim both hammer springs. 

[Howdy Pardner]

Has this problem been solved yet? howdypardner

[Marauder SASS #13056]

As to the opening lever spring, that is made extra strong to make up for poor fitting of the locking lugs.  Have your smith remove a little metal to have the locking lug fully extend into the locking slot.  Otherwise, the gun will wear and you will start having it open after the first shot.  That may also help the lock up.

 

It does sound like the gun may need to be refaced/rejoin.

 

 

 

[Reverend P. Babcock Chase]

Howdy Shotgunners,

 

The video that Marauder put up is a great tutorial for "tightening'" a loose shotgun. I had seen it before and used what I learned to fix an old Belgian side by side. It worked very well. It does take a bit of gumption to take a hammer to the barrel lug, but that appears to be the proper way to fix problems like this.

 

FYI

Rev. Chase