Can too much extractor work cause light primer strikes on Stoeger SxS

[Old Man Graybeard]

One other thing to check...especially if you have humidity where you live...pull the stock off and see if the hammers are rubbing on the wood of the stock. I had that problem on a single trigger stoeger. Took a dremel tool with a sanding drum and took off a little wood where the hammers were dragging. Used a small burr to clean up the edges...problem solved

 

[Assassin]

15 hours ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

PLUS ONE for Griff.  Additionally, "Funneling" a shotgun's breach destroys its value to anyone but a SASS Shooter.  regular shotgunners won't touch it.  It is unsellable as is.  Your 20Ga doesn't need "bandaids," it needs to have the chambers sleeved.  The rim shelves are "gone" and the grinding has the barrels "off face."  At this point, without sleeving, it's actually a write-off.  Unless you're willing to have the chambers sleeved, just send me the money.  At least one of us will be happy with your purchase.

That's a lot of work for a $300 shotgun. 

[Oak Ridge Regulator]

One last thing to try, my gun did some of the same things as yours stock from the factory, after a LOT of screwing around that dident work I ended up drilling the firing pin holes out one number drill bigger than they were from the factory ( ended up being a few thousands ) I also did a very slight chamfer on the back side of the firing pin holes, problem solved I think the bushings were probably drilled with a dull drill bit and were a bit undersized 

[Springfield Slim SASS #24733]

It really doesn't matter if the top of the extractor is a bit low as long as it holds the shells out far enough. Low extractor is fine, low shells are not.

   Instead of e clips or duct tape, try using some aluminum tape under the extractor first. It holds up  pretty well on holding bullet moulds a bit wider and they get much hotter. Easy to adjust and remove with no damage to the gun.

   Also, assuming you are loading your own shells, you don't set the primers to a certain depth, you bottom them out. Not firing the first time is the same thing non bottomed primers do, as the first hit bottoms them, the second fires them.

[Bearfoot Tracker]

4 hours ago, Assassin said:

That's a lot of work for a $300 shotgun. 

No. Try $500 new after taxes and shipping. $825 all in right now with the new lever spring kit, tuning, SS extended firing pins and cylinder chokes.. That's why I have been slow to give up on it, and I'll eventually get there.

 

You and Griff may be correct, but time will tell. If I get rid of the light primer strikes, and the gun last my wife 10 years of shooting matches 6-8 times a year, it will have been worth it to me .... and after that's all that counts here.

 

[Bearfoot Tracker]

4 hours ago, Oak Ridge Regulator said:

One last thing to try, my gun did some of the same things as yours stock from the factory, after a LOT of screwing around that dident work I ended up drilling the firing pin holes out one number drill bigger than they were from the factory ( ended up being a few thousands ) I also did a very slight chamfer on the back side of the firing pin holes, problem solved I think the bushings were probably drilled with a dull drill bit and were a bit undersized 

I had read that somewhere else. That may be in cards latter.

[Bearfoot Tracker]

3 hours ago, Springfield Slim SASS #24733 said:

It really doesn't matter if the top of the extractor is a bit low as long as it holds the shells out far enough. Low extractor is fine, low shells are not.

   Instead of e clips or duct tape, try using some aluminum tape under the extractor first. It holds up  pretty well on holding bullet moulds a bit wider and they get much hotter. Easy to adjust and remove with no damage to the gun.

   Also, assuming you are loading your own shells, you don't set the primers to a certain depth, you bottom them out. Not firing the first time is the same thing non bottomed primers do, as the first hit bottoms them, the second fires them.

I now believe that is correct as far as the extractor sitting a little low. If the chamber mouth has not been funneled too deep and the shells are sitting in the proper place, the extractor should not matter if it sets a little low.

 

I believe I have seral issues happening: the mouth may have been funneled a little too much, I took too much tension off of the break open lever spring: and I never really cleaned/lubed the internal workings good when I bought it.

 

Just today, I added some card stock behind the extractor and to it too the range and shot it. Still had some light primer strikes. While at the range I  put the full tension back on the lever opening spring, and I had less light primer strikes. Came home added the actual e-clip behind the extractor, cleaned & lubricated the internal workings. Looking at it with the butt stock off the hammers seem to be dropping much better than before. I then sanded some more off the inside of the butt stock. I have now done all I can do for the gun and will take it to the range again later tomorrow and see what happens.

 

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

I hate to be a Grump Butt (no I don't) nor a harbinger of ill Tidings (yes I am) but, there comes a point when you just need to quit.  Almost shoveled the cost of the gun into it trying to make it run.  Based on the amount of shooting your sweetheart is going to do, you should have stopped at cutting the stock and adding a nice recoil pad.  Your "ALL-IN" At this point is well past the value of the gun anywhere and as-is it's unsellable.   START.  OVER.  LEAVE THE NEW ONE MOSTLY ALONE!!

[Beartrap SASS#57175]

12 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

I hate to be a Grump Butt (no I don't) nor a harbinger of ill Tidings (yes I am) but, there comes a point when you just need to quit.  Almost shoveled the cost of the gun into it trying to make it run.  Based on the amount of shooting your sweetheart is going to do, you should have stopped at cutting the stock and adding a nice recoil pad.  Your "ALL-IN" At this point is well past the value of the gun anywhere and as-is it's unsellable.   START.  OVER.  LEAVE THE NEW ONE MOSTLY ALONE!!

Some people like a challenge and it's his time and money. Let him try@

[Bearfoot Tracker]

22 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

I hate to be a Grump Butt (no I don't) nor a harbinger of ill Tidings (yes I am) but, there comes a point when you just need to quit.  Almost shoveled the cost of the gun into it trying to make it run.  Based on the amount of shooting your sweetheart is going to do, you should have stopped at cutting the stock and adding a nice recoil pad.  Your "ALL-IN" At this point is well past the value of the gun anywhere and as-is it's unsellable.   START.  OVER.  LEAVE THE NEW ONE MOSTLY ALONE!!

CC, Are you going to be there to break open a stock gun  for her on each stage? She is lifting light weights many times a week trying to get stronger. There were reasons we could not leave the gun stock. You would need to know my wife and the background of the situation in order to understand the reason for diving into the tuning the gun to begin with. But this is not the place where this needs to be discussed. I appreciate and understand what you are saying, and I agree with you had the situation been different. Thanks for your input.

[Assassin]

2 hours ago, Beartrap SASS#57175 said:

Some people like a challenge and it's his time and money. Let him try@

I've had quite a few Stoeger shot guns and worked on many. I have funneled the chambers. First, I removed the extractor and reinstalled it after working on the chamber mouth. The extractor keeps the headspace at the proper distance. Any work to the extractor is not going to make any difference when loading. You might be able to add some metal with some welding and then  polishing it down until you've decreased the headspace.  

 

[Bearfoot Tracker]

NO MORE LIGHT PRIMER STRIKES.

Just posted another thread "The light primer strike drama ends" to end the story.