73 ubertie lever difference.

[Purly SASS # 57438]

I got a 73' Uberti in 45 colt. The gun didn't work very well so I started over with a new short stroke kit. I got to comparing the lever with one I had.  My question, is a lever out of a 357 caliber different from a 45 caliber ? The 357 is the top lever.

[Lefty Wheeler]

No they are not, pistol to straight is different.  One or the other may be bent, pin the two together for an accurate comparison.

There is a difference in a renegade  

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Both the .357 and .45 Colt levers should be interchangeable in factory guns having no mods, and both having the same style of stock (either both straight, or both pistol grip, sporting).   The SAME part number (VTI part UB:240089) is used for any caliber of a straight-stock Uberti rifle.

 

Your .357 lever appears to have been heavily modified post-factory, if that was originally a Uberti lever.

 

I assume you are asking about the different positions of the the surface of the lifter arm contact on the lever boss?    The .357 lever has had a LOT of metal taken off (to make a short stroke kit work, probably).  The metal for fitting the lifter arm is usually taken off the lifter arm pad, NOT off the lever boss, to make a SS kit fit.   So, the .357 lever is NOT a good model to use if you are trying to fit the new .45 Colt gun back together.

 

The bottom (.45 Colt) lever looks like what the factory produces, before any fitting.  Since the arm contact still has a well-rounded fillet at the end of the lifter arm flat.

 

I also see the .357 lever has a flattened "spur" at the rear of trigger guard, too - probably to prevent the owner pinching his trigger finger when the lever closed (because he was not careful with his trigger finger position).

 

So, I'd want to use the bottom,  .45 Colt, lever geometry, and fit the short stroke parts to the lever, not the lever to the SS kit parts.  You will get a better fit up doing that, and in future any replacement parts will fit as Uberti designed them to.

 

good luck, GJ

 

 

 

 

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

You don't mention if you acquired the rifle second hand or ???  The lever on the top has seen some work done.  The lever on the bottom also does not appear to be a "standard" Uberti item.

 

Normally, short stroke sets have to be fit to the rifle and once fit, ONLY work with that rifle.  It take some very specific skills to start from "scratch."

 

In my sordid past, of building competition Toggle Link rifles, when I accepted one "not working well" that had seen previous "work" I first removed all the screws and shook it over the trans can and started over with all OEM parts.

 

Good Luck  

[Purly SASS # 57438]

2 hours ago, Lefty Wheeler said:

 

There is a difference in a renegade  

Thanks for the help.

This rifle was a Renegade .

[Johnny Meadows,SASS#28485L]

The top lever looks like it was fit to a short stroke carrier lift arm. It looks like whoever installed it removed material from the lever instead of removing it from

the carrier lift arm.  Apparently they didn't read the instructions.

J.M.

[Lefty Wheeler]

I'm on the impression that the bottom lever is out of a renegade and the top lever is a stock Uberti.

The renegade came with a short stroke from the factory. They brought the timing in early by modifying (adding material to) the lever rather than the lifter arm.

[Purly SASS # 57438]

Ok, the top lever has not been modified, just used a lot. The bottom lever is out of a Renegade with a factory short stroke. 

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

5 hours ago, Lefty Wheeler said:

 

The renegade came with a short stroke from the factory. They brought the timing in early by modifying (adding material to) the lever rather than the lifter arm.

Lefty, as you very well know, I do not know a tremendous amount about all the mechanics of a 73.  My question is, IYO,  this method a good one, or, as it seems to me, does it not but more strenuous work on  timing thru the levering?

[Lefty Wheeler]

Apples and oranges, don't really want to mix parts from a kit to a factory SS.  Renegade was different than current stock parts and different than kits.  You could do it with more work, but, would have a one of a kind. Then if something goes, time to start over. 

[Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator]

27 minutes ago, Lefty Wheeler said:

Apples and oranges, don't really want to mix parts from a kit to a factory SS.  Renegade was different than current stock parts and different than kits.  You could do it with more work, but, would have a one of a kind. Then if something goes, time to start over. 

Did not really state my question well, is the method used on Renegade SS a good design?

[Lefty Wheeler]

Yes the only issue I've ever seen was a loose link pin.

[Fast Enuff]

Yes, I own two of them.  They slick up incredibly well.  I would absolutely use the factory parts.  They're a good find.

[Johnny Meadows,SASS#28485L]

1 hour ago, Lefty Wheeler said:

Apples and oranges, don't really want to mix parts from a kit to a factory SS.  Renegade was different than current stock parts and different than kits.  You could do it with more work, but, would have a one of a kind. Then if something goes, time to start over. 

This all makes since.  I never looked at the lever on a Renegade, but adding the material on the lever verses adding it on the lift arm should make no difference in operation.

J.M.

[SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER]

Renegade lever on the bottom.I believe the lever and lifter are both different in the renegade, but I would have to check to be certain.

[SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER]

My lifter on my Renegade is about .030 shorter than the stock lifters I have laying around, but this is a used rifle and it may have been adjusted.