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LawMan Mark, SASS #57095L

I'd rather hit my thumb with a hammer than...

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46 minutes ago, LawMan Mark, SASS #57095L said:

Battery is less than 2 years old, but I'll have it checked as well.  

 

I have seen more than one new battery with internal issues. Age of the battery has nothing to do with it.

 

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Technician at the dealership today said he's pretty certain it's in the ignition module.  He'll be trying a new module tomorrow.  They're also going to put the battery and alternator through a test.  

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Ign module is way cheaper than the main MCU.

Good luck-Keep us posted.

OLG

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They replaced ignition module.  Still got issues.   The temperature gauge is pegged out, even though the truck isn't running.  Only one side of the injectors are working.  

 

They are checking the ECM (Engine Control Module).  I was by there at lunch time, and haven't heard from them as of current time, so another weekend without the truck.  

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Has the battery and altenator been changed out? Might be time to do such........

Have the wiring from the alternator's wiring loom checked for internal wire breakage(tug on it while running).

OLG

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Just a story that came to mind. 

 

Up the way from us is a recycling business.  Much of his business is in wrecked cars, trucks, and industrial equipment and machines.  I'm always amazed at how many current model cars are on his lot.  Some are damaged beyond repair.  But many look just fine.  One l asked the story on.   It was a Buick LaSaber of current body style.  Looked good from where I could see.  He said the lady that owned it had taken it to the local Chrysler dealship to have problems fixed. He listed all the stuff they replaced but still didn't get the problem fixed.   The repair bills were mounting up pretty big.  She ended up traiding it in on a new car.  I know he didn't pay over salvage price for the car. He was going to see if he could figure it out. 

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2 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Has the battery and altenator been changed out? Might be time to do such........

Have the wiring from the alternator's wiring loom checked for internal wire breakage(tug on it while running).

OLG

I was only able to talk to the service manager, as the tech was not available. The battery and alternator were discussed with them. 

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I have had an altenator on my Jeep CJ-7, do what you are seeing now with intermittent voltage drop.

Turned out to be a dying rectifier.

Tell the guys to tap the altenator with a block of wood while they test it. That may well 'tigger' the issue, if it's intermittent.

You want this alternator tested for voltage and amps. Voltage means nut'n, if the amps ain't there..........

OLG

 

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20 hours ago, LawMan Mark, SASS #57095L said:

They replaced ignition module.  Still got issues.   The temperature gauge is pegged out, even though the truck isn't running.  Only one side of the injectors are working.  

 

They are checking the ECM (Engine Control Module).  I was by there at lunch time, and haven't heard from them as of current time, so another weekend without the truck.  

 

Pegged gauge is usually a symptom of a short to ground.  It’s not a power wire, so blowing a fuse will not be there.  The sensor controls how much resistance in relationship to what it is monitoring.  Most current gauges are reading what the computer is reading, so a pegged gauge may be your “Over Heat” condition even with the ignition on but engine not running.  Also, a short/broken wire could also explain the intermittent problems you’ve mentioned.  Did you notice if the drop in RPM corresponded to a dip or bump in the road?  

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It’s also been my experience that today’s auto repair places have a serious lack of TRUE TROUBLESHOOTING SKILLS.  If there is not a hard fault that they can pin point, then they will load up the parts cannon and change out parts until it works as it should, without fully understanding what is actually going on or how the parts relate to one another.  Of course, at your expense!!

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2 hours ago, Clueless Bob said:

 

Pegged gauge is usually a symptom of a short to ground.  It’s not a power wire, so blowing a fuse will not be there.  The sensor controls how much resistance in relationship to what it is monitoring.  Most current gauges are reading what the computer is reading, so a pegged gauge may be your “Over Heat” condition even with the ignition on but engine not running.  Also, a short/broken wire could also explain the intermittent problems you’ve mentioned.  Did you notice if the drop in RPM corresponded to a dip or bump in the road?  

If it's a rectifier issue in the alt. It could be 'spitn' A/C current through the system. That will cause the gauges to peg.

OLG 

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1 hour ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

If it's a rectifier issue in the alt. It could be 'spitn' A/C current through the system. That will cause the gauges to peg.

OLG 

 

With the engine not running, I’m not seeing A/C current “spitn”.  Also, if the rectifier is the issue, you should be seeing more than just the temp gauge getting pegged.

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4 hours ago, Clueless Bob said:

It’s also been my experience that today’s auto repair places have a serious lack of TRUE TROUBLESHOOTING SKILLS.  If there is not a hard fault that they can pin point, then they will load up the parts cannon and change out parts until it works as it should, without fully understanding what is actually going on or how the parts relate to one another.  Of course, at your expense!!

I've already had more than one say that if it had a trouble code showing, they could fix it.  

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25 minutes ago, Clueless Bob said:

 

With the engine not running, I’m not seeing A/C current “spitn”.  Also, if the rectifier is the issue, you should be seeing more than just the temp gauge getting pegged.

The pegged gauge would indicate high resistence.   

It can also indicate the battery might be back feeding a bit through the altenator.

OP-Try disconnecting the alternator's wiring, and just run it on a fully charged battery-see what happens.

OLG

 

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Per the dealership, it's repaired.  It was the engine control module (ECM).  The battery and alternator checked ok, and no bad grounds were noted.  The ECM has been replaced, and I'll pick the truck up this afternoon.  

 

 

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1 hour ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Find out what the warranty is on this new ECM.

Good luck! ;)

OLG

 

What Lumpy sez.  

 

Local dealer replaced PCM/ECM in my car under a recall order.  Gave me fits for a year and a half chasing seemingly unrelated problems.  Finally took it back to the dealer; after over six hours of diagnosis the technicians - with the assistance of their national help center - determined the PCM/ECM was faulty. They then then claimed that as it had been a recall repair it was not warranted.  Parts and labor would be $1800...!  :blink:

 

Over a dozen conversations with the local dealer and national HQ - best they would offer was a $300 discount.

 

Off to court we went. 

 

Dealer fixed it.   ;)

 

 

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On 1/30/2019 at 1:49 PM, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Find out what the warranty is on this new ECM.

Good luck! ;)

OLG

Two years from date of installation (yesterday), written on the receipt, signed by the dealership.  

 

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If you need to really count on your truck buy a new one. IF this is a gremlin, then more are there. If the truck is just an occasional driver then stick it out and try to fix it.

 

oops, I see it is "fixed". good luck

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