Frenchy Cannuck Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 I'm curious about the advantages of having my SA worked on. I shoot a pair of Ruger NM Vaqueros, .357mag 4'5/8' barrels in SS. I have looked at the LongHunter site at what he does as far as what an action job would be about. Now sending my Rugers out isn't an option for me. I have access to a great gunsmith, I sure he can do the job if I can get the parts for him. Springs are no problem, Longhunter can send me those, I'm thinking of Montado hammers, where can I buy'em? I'd also like a clear explanation of the diffrent modification like forcing cones and the likes so I can explain it to him or even better if there's a website that explains the process. Thanks Frenchy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Rider Rudy Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Howdy Frenchy, just changing the springs makes a differance. Some folks thats all they do to them. As for the hammers you should shoot someones gun that has them? As some folks put them in and take them back out as they don't like them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowCatcher Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 I'm curious about the advantages of having my SA worked on. I shoot a pair of Ruger NM Vaqueros, .357mag 4'5/8' barrels in SS. I have looked at the LongHunter site at what he does as far as what an action job would be about. Now sending my Rugers out isn't an option for me. I have access to a great gunsmith, I sure he can do the job if I can get the parts for him. Springs are no problem, Longhunter can send me those, I'm thinking of Montado hammers, where can I buy'em? I'd also like a clear explanation of the diffrent modification like forcing cones and the likes so I can explain it to him or even better if there's a website that explains the process. Thanks Frenchy Stock Rugers are usually quite fine for most shooters, and I contend any top shooter could still be a top shooter with a stock Ruger. A craftsman never blames his tools. You can easily change out the stock Ruger springs, and give the gun a detail cleaning while you're at it. There are kits available, and wolff makes calibrated reduced power springs. Stock RNV is 17# main - I use a 16# in all of mine. The trigger return spring is another one that effects trigger pull, and can be reduced using either of the two weights Wolff provides. While you're inside the gun you can clean surfaces off, making sure to NOT touch Trigger/Hammer Sear surfaces. Most of the metal will be pretty well clean anyway - Ruger folks don't leave gravel in the works, but some cleaning up is always a possibility. The reason to have the forcing cone opened up a bit is to smooth the bullets entry into the barrel, reducing the battering (if any) of the bullets front as it transitions from the chamber to the barrel, which might impair accuracy, and to reduce leading, simplifying clean up after all the fun is over. The Ruger Super Blackhawk hammer is the same as the Montado, except that the Montado is checkered, whereas the RSB is serated. They both have the wide hammer spur, and are drop in replacment parts. The forcing cone requires some specific tools, but the other improvements require buying the springs, the hammer, and maybe a little judicious clean up with a fine file, or stone. Now - why send it to a gunsmith? A competent professional will be able to spot any issues like timing or endshake, sear misalignment, sloppy fitment, etc. (S)he will be able to fix that, align the barrel and sights so POA=POI, adjust timing, smooth and set trigger pull to a specific weight, hone the chambers, and in general make it function as well as it was designed to function, which is usually better than the assembly line actually made it function. Two of my Rugers were worked over by Bob Munden, a third is stock except for springs and the hammer replacement. The 3rd gun shoots very well, and is used is CAS all the time, as are my two Munden guns. IS there a difference - You bet your bottom there is - the gunsmith worked guns feel far better. Doesn't mean the stock gun is no good, the gunsmith tuned guns are just better. I have a Colt SAA I want to send to Eddie Janis as soon as I can find the money! Talk to your Gunsmith and make sure he already knows what you're talking about - in fact he should be explaining to you all the choices and option. He better already know this - you don't want to be his first! Shadow Catcher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Howdy If you have to explain about recutting the forcing cone, you don't want that smith working on your Rugers. I have always said, working on Rugers is not brain surgery. They are much simpler to work on than a revolver with a Colt style lockwork. There are plenty of terrific cowboy smiths who can tune your New Vaqueros, but if you don't want to send them out I'll bet you there is a guy at one of the clubs where you shoot who can do a good job tuning your Rugers. Replacing springs with lighter springs is easy, simply replacing the hammer spring with a lighter one will help reduce trigger pull, because the trigger is overcoming less friction as the sear slides out of the full cock notch. But if you are going to replace the springs you really should have somebody remove the extra friction left inside by the manufacturer. Ruger mass produced guns and they do not take the time to polish parts that rub against each other, or remove tooling marks that can cause extra friction. That's what you pay somebody for when he does an action job. Ask around your club, I'll bet you will find somebody who can tune your Rugers for you. You won't have to send them off anywhere and you won't have to get on a long wait list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe West, SASS#1532 L Regulator Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Also if your gunsmith can not order parts then you need to keep looking. Set up really right the Rugers are more pleasant to use and you avoid issues with binding or even point of aim. Poorly worked on is worse than stock. Good Luck, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Howdy If you have to explain about recutting the forcing cone, you don't want that smith working on your Rugers. ... I was thinking the same thing. I've not done anything, nor had anything done to my Rugers, I've just shot them a lot and cleaned them. My rifle and one of my shotguns on the other hand have been worked over by gunsmiths that are cowboy shooters and know what needs to be done for this game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chili Ron Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Howdy, I shipped a pair of used rugers to Coyote Cap. He smoothed them up and took a while to get them back to me. What was the holdup?? One ruger had a bent part and Cap had to order it and for some reason it took a while to get. When you get an experienced smith who knows your gun to look it over and work on it, that is very different from having a local guy learn on your gun. Cap did my guns in 1998 or thereabouts and Ive had em so dirty they would hardly chamber a 38 special and they work just fine. I had Rusty Marlin tune my marlin, too. Why? HE wrote the article on how to cure the dreaded Marlin Jam. Again, I dont need some local guy learning on my guns. Hey, they are your guns, do what you like. I have had problems with an action job due to missed communication about what I wanted. Talk over what you want and what the smith can do. Best CR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Frank Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Buy the spring kit from Longhunter. It will take you about 10 minutes to install in the first pistol and about 5 for the second (once you know what you are doing). Shoot and enjoy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Solo Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Most NMV Ruger "tuning" can be accomplished just by shooting. You will be surprised how much smoother they become after a few hundred rounds. The NMV is just about the only gun that come from the factory ready to use in our game. If your NMV isn't pretty good right out of the box you have a real problem that should be dealt with by Ruger. If you want you can install lighter springs. I watched a good smith swap out the springs on my SASS Vaqueros (we both agreed the difference between before and after wasn't that much but I had a hankering for "lighter" springs.) It took him a couple of minutes to do the job. I did my second pair of Vaqueros myself. It took 10 minutes to install the first set and five for the second. Spring kits and Super Blackhawk hammers can be purchased from Brownells. If you have smaller hands or shorter fingers or if you shoot duelist or gunfighter, you will really want the Super Blackhawk hammers. I had a smith check my forcing cones, and discovered that my 45s needed a little tweak, one a little more than the other. He did the work for not much money. After he opened the forcing cones the pistols now match precisely and are more accurate. Since opening forcing cones requires the right tools and you have to be very precise in the amount of metal removed, a competent gunsmith needs to do the work. Most of the big name cowboy smiths you have been reading about are very good and that means they are very busy. A good local smith, especially one who shoots cowboy himself, should be able to do the job of "tuning" your Vaqueros far quicker and for less money. Like I said, if you are handy and pay attention you can change the springs and drop in hammers all by yourself. For me the big reason to tune a pair of NMVs is to make them as close to identical as possible. I don't want to have to be aware of which gun is in which holster. These days I don't pay any attention, in the days before I have the forcing cones looked at I had to remember that one gun shot a little different than the other. Thinking takes time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hashknife Cowboy Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I have OMV's and NMV's with really smooth actions and not lightened. All done by Gary Reeder, love em! I also change out grips and the base pin latch spring. I think a extremely smooth action is far more important that a light action. I don't want to limit my primers to one brand and risk a round not going off when I really need it too. Had that happen to some really lightened up actions on Rugers and S&W. Just my opinion on the topic... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Ron Wayne Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 The only thing I have done to my 8 Rugers is put in spring kits and run them. I cant out run a stock Ruger so ad springs and shoot ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchy Cannuck Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Howdy, I'll be putting in hammer springs, the trigger spring feels good as is. The SBH hammers I'm still thinking on. I think I'll wait and see how the hammer spring works out and I'll go from there. The local gunsmith I have in mind is very good I'll have a chat with him and make up my mind from there. Thanks for the great advise, I'm much obliged! Frenchy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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