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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. The Series 80 and 90 models have the firing pin block. The reissued Series 70s do not. Series 70s are much appreciated by gunsmiths when trying to make a smooth and light trigger pull. Some having No firing pin block: 1911 Classic - "A tribute to the revered Commercial Government Model pistols of the past, the 1911 Classic features the Series 70 firing system" Royal Blue 1911 Classic Competition, Competition Titanium, Competition Plus, Custom Competition Wiley Clapp Commander, Government, Light Wt Commander, CCO Special Combat Carry Combat Elite Gove
  2. Reverse those two. Stick-on wheel weights, like used on aluminum and mag wheels, are very soft - essentially pure lead. Right off the wheels, they look like shiny gray Chicklets (but larger). 5 Brinell Hardness Clip on wheel weights vary a lot, but today are between 8 and 11 Brinell hardness, normally. As will radioactive isotope storage containers from hospitals. 9 Brinell is hard enough for almost any cowboy bullet. Even 1911 semi-autos. good luck, GJ
  3. With vertical faces to reflect fragments, I would expect some higher than normal splatter problems, which might limit them to 50 yards or longer distances. Just because they will swing does not mean the dynamics of hits at 1400 FPS or higher will overcome the inertia of the plate in the first couple of milliseconds when splatter occurs (they will appear to be fixed in that time period). good luck, GJ
  4. A great title for this post would be "Coated Bullet Vendors?" The better the title, the better the advice you can gather and the less time it takes us all to parse it out. The short to-the-point question was great. It's a hard time to be laying in loading supplies, however. Be ready to make several inquiries and searches. And remember that with bullets, buying from a close vendor or at a bigger match you plan to attend can save you the high shipping costs that are only getting higher. Often times, asking your pards at a local match gets you a vendor name or two you may
  5. You will get tired or expensive (with automation) trying to reset a knockdown target past 10 yards. One target standing alone is rarely used in SASS - start thinking arrays of 5 of the same shape, and it gets VERY useful for practice. So, if you want to hit 'em with mild 45-70, you need 1/2" thick AR-500 alloy steel for the target face. No .38 spl would even begin to tip over that target, so as recommended by ERSC above, think stationary targets on sturdy stands. Because of the expense of making a target to handle large bore rifle, most folks buy practice targets JUST for cast b
  6. Check underside of barrel, under the forearm. good luck, GJ
  7. Many duelist style shooters only feel comfortable with Bisleys. But, it still depends on your hand size and strength. You do not have enough time in the game to be able to make a decision based on experience. So, you can be easily swayed by others' opinions and appearance. If you are a two handed shooter, there's more hammer to thumb with a standard hogleg grip. Few 2-handers use Bisleys. If you are shooting 2-handed, shoot those Patrons! And sell the Bises. This is a lousy time to try swapping either parts or guns. You will take a bigger bath than normal due to
  8. Can you say "auto-ejecting annealing machine" ? My luck, I'd toss hot cases in my lap.
  9. Did you ask specifically what's going on with the IMR powders they now own the rights to? thanks, GJ
  10. There's really no benefit from trying to get lube into a shotshell load, IMHO. And lots of potential to deaden your powder. No way to force the lube to the barrel walls, where the lube could soften the fouling. Using fiber wads rather than plastic shot cups helps reduce barrel fouling some. But slower to load and harder to make tight patterns (if that matters to you). good luck, GJ
  11. I see that rig and wonder how many revolutions it would take to anneal at 33 1/3 RPM? I've got an old turntable that would make that speed..... What's the drive and gearing on the one in the pictures? GJ
  12. Winchester 209 shotgun primers do have a flatter primer cup profile than, say, Federal 209A primers. And I have had a couple of lots of the Federal 209A primers in the last 10 years where the primer cup was set REAL DEEP below the flange of the battery cup around the outside of the primer. This can also be a reason to move over to Win primers for shotshells. It surely was for me. good luck, GJ
  13. You mean that they still have the catalog listing for them on their web site? I see nothing on Hodgdon's site that guarantees that the powders are still being made. The end-of-production info came from several shooters on Shotgun World and Trapshooter forums who have some good ties with distributors and even Hodgdon personnel. None of the on-line vendors have had any since January. That could be said for lots of powders now, but the dot clones went to out of stock status earlier than many others. MidSouth has pulled them (color-dot clones and 800-X) from their on-line catalog e
  14. Load to powder weight, not to bushing number! No two folks run even the same model of shotgun loader with a particular powder and bushing to give the same powder weight drops. Bushings are not precision instruments. You have the weight that IT uses. Find the bushing that drops very close to that weight in your loader and when using your loading technique. good luck, GJ
  15. Nope, hammer either cocks fully or not at all. Cocking involves the sear catching and holding the hammer back by means of slipping into the full-cock notch on the hammer. There is no "almost cocked" notch to catch on. You could possibly have a weak hammer spring on that side. If so, try to find a new pair and replace both sides at same time. You should be seeing light hammer strikes that dimple the primer (but not set it off) if that is the problem. This would be a rarely seen problem. First thing to check for - Stoeger firing pins mushroom over years of use an
  16. I have split a lot of cases over the years, and have used annealing to help with splitting from the cases being work hardened by repeated firing and resizing. But the easier solution has been adopting the Redding dual-sizing-ring dies which eliminate excessive resizing on straight wall cartridge cases. https://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/124-dual-ring-carbide-dies There are two carbide rings in these dies, a tighter one to size the neck of the case, and a loose one to GENTLY size the lower 2/3 of the case. Yep, they are expensive. And they AR
  17. Take off butt stock and examine the wood or the receiver parts next to the hammer for anything that has recently developed to become a block of the right hammer path. Splinters off the wood where it fits to receiver, a metal burr, dirty action, etc. Then fix that. Single trigger guns need the first hammer to fall to switch the trigger over to the second hammer. That is why the left fails. Now you have to find why the right side fails. I would second the ridiculously bad customer service you would probably receive if you contact Stoeger for service on a 5 year old
  18. Soy wax - Supposed to have a softening temp at about 120F. Would have to keep ammo out of direct sun and out of vehicle during day. Sounds a little too low temp for general use. Sure you don't want to use hot glue gun? That's very common now. good luck, GJ
  19. Manufacturers bailed largely because only Classic Cowboy category requires the generally slower external-hammer side-by-side shotgun. Pioneer was PREMIUM priced. Hammered guns can be used in any other SASS category, but most folks don't do that for very long. good luck, GJ
  20. Oh, they will work, but are not light loads like the Win Featherlites and the Rem STS light target one ounce loads. Will be less attractive to reload, since they need a shot wad made for a European straight wall hull. The height of the metal on the base makes NO difference anymore to power of shotshells. They will go bang and they will knock down almost ANY cowboy KD target. If you have a side-by-side that is reluctant to shuck shells easily, these may be more difficult to shuck than the Rem or Win target hulls. good luck, GJ
  21. Yeah, we have folks around here using some of those Ginex centerfire primers from Bosnia. They generally work well. Not as soft a cup as Federal, though, more like Remington. good luck, GJ
  22. The traditional 1800's method of sealing the over-shot card in the brass hull was to apply a ring of water glass (sodium silicate dissolved in a little water) around the contact between wad and hull. Shoots right out when fired. Here's a source to order a pail of it if you can't find at a local hardware store: https://www.lehmans.com/product/water-glass-liquid-sodium-silicate A pail will make thousands of rounds, I'm sure. good luck, GJ
  23. Soy wax proven to be compatible with BP by many BP lube makers. Paraffin wax is a petroleum distillate - most of which are proven not to be compatible with BP (causing very hard fouling). Choice would be clear to me - use the soy wax. good luck, GJ
  24. REAL important to have a pattern of what an unbent lever shape is. See if you or a friend have a new spare part to compare to. I keep a new lever in my gun smithing tools bag. Then I bend the damaged lever cold. And test it to make sure the lever closes enough to hit the trigger safety bar tip to release the trigger safety. Then you also get to check how the lever is lifting the carrier, to see if THAT geometry is right.. With careful attention, you can get it bent back on the first try. Do not add any side twist - lever needs to stay in one single flat plane.
  25. Most credit cards are 100% protected from fraudulent charges - ones that you did not make. You let the card company know, and they erase the charge and usually issue a new card. Pretty easy to dispute a charge on most if you can't get the vendor to provide typical refunds for poor quality, or poor service. Then the card company will take on the vendor. However - Most check cards (aka cash cards, teller machine cards, debit cards) ARE NOT protected uniformly and the amount of coverage for fraud depends on the issuing bank or credit union. Be real careful with them!
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