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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. So who thinks that having other parts of the body, such as forearms (even belly, knee) touching firearms provides any degree of competitive advantage at the start? Seems the rule is clear, that at default position the HANDS may not touch any firearm. I might understand that we now need to add "or ammo" to keep those potato grubbers (or chile snatchers) off the shotgun shells as well. good luck, GJ
  2. Be aware that the SASS type slicking up of a Stoeger is normally considered by Stoeger to void any new-gun warranty. Good luck, GJ
  3. Remington STS or (gold) Nitro hulls. Smoothest hull wall, soft brass head cover, small volume internally. Those first two design elements make those Remington hulls shuck easier and more reliably from the side-by-side non-ejector shotguns that most of us shoot. The smaller internal volume means it's easier to shoot a very light reload, like 3/4 ounce of shot moving at 900 FPS or so. Lighter than the Win LNLR. Federal now is producing that same exact design as their (Maroon) HOA (High Overall) shotshell. Loads same, shucks same, but hard to find still. Winchester AAs usually come in second in most folk's lists. The AA has a design "difference" due to their inserted plastic base wad, rather than Remington's base wad being molded when the rest of the plastic hull is made. That inserted basewad has a small top edge which can catch the skirts of wads pushed down deep in the hull, which then tends to make an outer hull wall bump 1/2" higher than the top of the brass head cover. This CAN stick in tighter (factory) chambers of side-by-sides. But, if you are shooting a pump or even a well-set up lever shotgun, you MAY find that you can reload about any hull because of the positive extraction and ejection those shotguns can be tuned up to. good luck, GJ
  4. That 4.0 grains TG load will not make the WB power factor in most 1911s. Probably is a nice soft target load, though. I'd guess you don't have a bullet that is large enough diameter. good luck, GJ
  5. Sizing just the upper third of the case works real well, too. Leave most of the case unsized. And, using thinner brass works well, even if it is headstamped wrong for the rifle used. Like .44-40 in a .45 Colt rifle. On your testing, you seem to have compared maybe twice-fired brass cases with perhaps several times fired nickel cases. I would expect the nickel case to have been much harder due to work hardening from resizing the case several times without any annealing. This may account for the brass cases seeming to be better able to seal than the nickel. good luck, GJ
  6. From a metallurgy and internal ballistics point of view, no real difference in sealing the chamber. Nickel cases tend to split for me about 5 times as often as brass cases in the same caliber. So, I never run nickel plated cases in rifles. In revolvers, the majority of combustion gas blows out the cylinder gap. So, no use worrying about sealing there, really. I never leave important ammo in leather gun belts for long. So the real benefit of nickel plating - it's corrosion resistance - is not valuable to me. Much ado about nothing, other than, don't use nickel plated cases if you want to have high reliability of operations. Stay out of rabbit holes would be my major advice. good luck, GJ
  7. Submitted for serious consideration - If we really go back to safety fundamentals, there is a much simpler way to determine if safety has been endangered by this situation. Situation being, a long gun has been restaged, but when picked up, has been found to be laying such that the gun's action was over an empty case. A fired case never causes a true safety issue. But, I also understand that we want to be cautious about when a fired case in a long gun might instead be a live round left in a long gun. So, if the empty case is actually held within the long gun (in a chamber, crosswise in the action, trapped by the extractor, etc.) I suggest that case IS in the gun. And that a round or empty "being retained" within the action would be perhaps one movement of a lever or pump away from a closed, cocked and "loaded" firearm. But when the gun is picked up and a case is found to be laying on the table, that is NO proof that the case was in the gun at the time the gun was restaged. And, of course, the long gun is not a danger of any sort now that it has been picked up and the empty is still lying on the table. Our main opportunity to detect an empty case having been left in lever or slide action guns is when the shooter (or a safety officer) picks up the gun after the stage has been completed. If an empty falls out during the pickup, well, let's call that the empty was in gun. If the case stays on the table, empty declared not in the gun and this was a laid-down gun covering the case. If the empty stays in the gun and rides all the way to the next inspection (unloading table), of course the gun was restaged with the case in it. We have as much time as we want to take, when the shooter moves to pickup a restaged long gun. This proposed approach seems like a much more easily understood situation, and one where we never penalize a shooter with a safety penalty, when there was no firearms safety issue ever having occurred. All because we are implying that a empty on the table but covered by the action must have actually been in the action during restaging. Even if the case was dislodged during slamming the gun down onto the table, it's now in a safe condition - laying on the table. I believe would should penalize actual safety conditions, not implied conditions that we can take to the time to look at (after stage completed) and understand. good luck, GJ
  8. Ours is a small community and my guess is even fewer of us are trying to wrangle more YouTube subscribers. Most of the stuff you ask for is kind the core of how cowboy gunsmiths make their living. I'd rather have THOSE folks succeed. I can count the number of times I have trusted a YT video to be correct on cowboy firearms work on about the fingers on one hand. good luck, GJ
  9. GunBroker does not BOOST prices. They are not a dealer, just essentially an advertising platform and transaction monitor....... the SELLER sets the fixed prices, and the potential buyers OFFER their bids on minimum-price proffers and no-minimum proffers by sellers. Of course, any auction that has lots of eyeballs watching tends to drive the settlement price up, because it goes at the highest price that was "slapped on the barrel head" by a buyer. If the seller asks too much on a fixed price or a minimum bid, then the gun won't sell. If the buyers are not offering enough on their bids to meet minimum, then the gun won't sell. In between, there is a meeting point, and the gun sells. To find out the prices from actual sales that completed, look at completed auctions only. You can filter out the items that have not (yet) sold. Yes, the panic of 2020 has raised asking prices, and on almost all firearms, not just Colt revolvers. Some of our cowboy sellers, both commercial vendors and private sellers, can give you very good deals. And some, not so much. So, check the Vendors section of this forum, and the SASS Classifieds section, regularly. I've found some very good deals there by being patient and very watchful. good luck, GJ
  10. As specified by SASS rules, unless it is ON the carrier, it's not, and shooter gets the benefit of doubt. No call. Next shooter. GJ
  11. Ummm, would be an expensive operation to broach or electromill the slot for the tail of the safety interlock lever. I've had two OBDs with my '73 rifles, which have a lever safety. The design is not foolproof. If you go fast enough and have not learned to time your lever stroke completion with your trigger pull, you CAN have one even with a lever safety. I've seen several other shooters have OBDs with 73s. And a few with 66s. Guess I have at times shot with the "Fast Kids from Ridgemont High." Guess 10 BTs, 8 WRs and about 15 EOTs can do that to you. So, depends upon your risk acceptance/avoidance level, and your coordination and timing. You have to make your own decision on those, unless you find a good CAS instructor who will observe you, video you, and give his best guess of what you can expect to master. Remember to always wear safety glasses, carry a first aid kit, and tweezers or pliers to extract brass fragments from face. Some notions seem attractive until you examine some scars. good luck, GJ
  12. Unique doesn't build up pressure very quick. TiteGroup will, and so will WST. Both of those will give you higher pressure that makes it EASIER to get cases to seal. The SAAMI chamber specs are huge for the .45 Colt, in deference to old Single Actions from before 1900. And modern sizing dies are made real tight - sizing the whole case down to 0.473" to hold onto jacketed bullets.. So the case has to flex from 0.473" to 0.480" every firing. With low pressure loads like we run, the case never fully flexes to seal the chamber, unless you either anneal or quit sizing the case so much. What REALLY works for me is the Redding two-ring carbide sizer die. It allows you to leave the lower 2/3 of the case at almost full diameter, and size just the neck so it holds the bullet firmly. Put on a firm roll crimp, use a faster burning powder, and you can run 12 or 18 stages without fouling up a .45 Colt Uberti rifle. That Redding die reduced case splitting to almost nothing, and reduced powder fouling too. I run .45 Colt in my rifles for WB, and for Cowboy too. HOWEVER, I see Redding has recently discontinued this die (at least for now), probably due to small sales volume. I see one listed on EBay though. That is TOO BAD, as this is one of the best dies I have ever used for .45 Colt. You can simulate the sizing action of this, by adjusting your conventional sizer die up, and only size the top third of the case. Avoid running other folk's brass though, if you decide to go this route, as you can find REALLY large fired cases laying on the range from the shooters who hot-rod .45 Colt loads good luck, GJ
  13. See Lonnie at Run-N-Iron Gunworks. He does lots of work on old Winchesters. My guess is that is a rivet that was set into the side plates, and there will be significant fouling and rust internally since the action was not accessible. http://www.runniron.com/index_cowboy.html You have a pretty nice condition gun, just one that has been shade-tree or kitchen-table hacked. Don't get too carried away with DIY just because you have worked on modern guns a lot. Easy to ruin both sentimental AND collector's value on it. And an original Winchester will be hard to find some parts. Go easy. New hammer spring? A good smith can hourglass or thin that original spring, or can even make a new one. good luck, GJ
  14. I loaded pyrodex 15 years ago when I started cowboy shooting. Didn't take me long to discover how fast it rusts steel. 5 times faster than real BP. Either shoot real BP, or get some APP. You will thank yourself! good luck, GJ
  15. Sounds like a TON more work than just spraying some BP solvent down bore, then running a tight patch 5 minutes later. I use PAM to clean and leave an oil barrier behind in the barrel. PAM is a widely used home-made BP cleaner. Equal parts of: P hydrogen Peroxide A rubbing Alcohol M Murphys oil soap. Why boil water when I can be done in half that time? This isn't as hard as delivering a baby. Besides, this is JUST as easy to do at the range or at an out-of-town match! good luck, GJ
  16. Can't crimp a .45 auto cartridge more than just tapering the mouth back to the case diameter. If you roll it any, you loose the headspace location (the mouth of the case!) That can lead to rounds going in chamber too far and not firing, and even no longer reachable by the extractor, so you have a loaded round stuck in chamber. No, this is NOT a crimp problem, it's a bullet fit in grooves of barrel problem. Some carbine type guns might have a sloppy, oversize barrel that needs a 0.452" or even larger bullet! You won't know unless you slug the barrel. The .45 auto is a much different cartridge than Cowboy rimmed cartridges! A great powder for .45 auto is Win Super Target (WST). Very accurate in many guns. good luck, GJ
  17. Had same problems in my 1911 pistols. The fouling really IS lead, just very thin coats of it. If it were simply powder fouling, it would clean out immediately with any good powder solvent. Much more leading occurs in the grooves than on the lands. It comes from gas cutting of the bullet sides because the bullet is not sealing into the grooves fast enough. Farther along the barrel, the bullet finally expands enough to stop the gas cutting, and thus there is no fouling out there. The Red Dot load is producing more pressure than your Clay Dot load, and that helps a hard bullet upset enough to fill grooves. Go to a Brinnell Hardness of about 9 on your bullets. Most commercial casters are using a 6-2 alloy that has a hardness of about 15 BNH. Use a bullet matching or 0.001" over the barrel's groove diameter. It will go away. Desperado Bullets and a few other casters can provide softer bullets. A poly (plastic) coated bullet will reduce (but probably not completely clean up) the fouling. It's the better fit of bullet to barrel that helps the most. good luck, GJ
  18. Miroku 500 is the most commonly imported of their side-bys. Either with Miroku or Charles Daly names on them. Excellent guns. A better value than SKB Ithacas have become. A little heavier, though. good luck, GJ
  19. I like how Bordertown (AZ State) handles it. Applications become available to anyone regardless of where they live. It's faster for in-state folks to send them (drive them) in, so mostly in-state folks get in. Awards clearly differentiate between the "winner" and the State Champion. The State Champion is a nicer award, usually. And in-staters can win both awards! Like that. Even if I AM an out-of-stater. GJ
  20. Get an extractor pin punch block from Scarlett! Makes knocking out the extractor pin easier. Then, spot chamfer the ends of the pin hole in the bolt with a suitable drill bit. That very slight dimple in the bolt makes it VERY easy to both knock out AND install the new pin next time. Not necessary. And that small a diameter, won't hold any tighter. And hard to find that small a roll pin that has length. I have used both 1/16" drill shanks and annealed black iron (rebar tie) wire sanded to 1/16". I like the wire since if the pin sticks tight, I can drill it out of the much harder bolt. If your bent, reshaped extractor was not providing the tension you need to run dummies, maybe it just no longer had the correct tension. Fingertip pull on the sharp nose of the extractor tip is a great way to test tension. If the tip hurts your finger and you can't pull extractor up all the way out of the bolt's slot, you have enough tension. And, you could have easily bent or broken the cartridge support tab on the bottom of the bolt face. Check that it is still present and straight, as it holds the case into the hook of the extractor. good luck, GJ
  21. And the 3" chambered "duck gun" Model 12 has a reputation of NOT feeding 2 3/4" ammo very reliably. I would avoid those. And watch out that you don't get a Model 25, which was an economy Model 12 and it is NOT legal in WB. good luck, GJ
  22. Longhunter Supply - I've seen their color case results, and would be proud to have them do it. They might also be talked into refinishing your stock. That would be DIY for me. Another one stop shop, for gorgeous work on metal and wood, Run-N-Iron in Nebraska. They specialize in refinish and restoration work. good luck, GJ
  23. Second that. That is what I used before 366 s. Very easy to keep up with 400 shells a month! GJ
  24. Hornady 366. Very often these are available used at very reasonable prices. Parts easily available and design has not changed much for 40 years. VERY satisfied with the two I run, which replaced MEC machines. It takes a lot of shells to come close to paying for a multi-thousand dollar shotshell loader. I'm shooting a lot of sporting clays (over 15,000 a year), and still would not be able to pay off $4000+ for a loader. good luck, GJ
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