Waimea Posted January 25 Posted January 25 (edited) I have a pair of open top Uberti 1851 Mason R. Conversions. Once I take the wedge out it is nearly impossible without a sledgehammer (kidding, kind of) to get the barrel assembly to let go of the arbor and frame. I believe the two little nubs and holes are the culprits. I've tried lightly sanding each nub with 800 grit but still it holds like it's been welded. Anyone else have this issue? Question 2: where to get parts for these guns? I need a PAWL (not hand) assembly as the pawl spring broke in one of them. Edited January 25 by Waimea Quote
Abilene, SASS # 27489 Posted January 25 Posted January 25 (edited) Is it really hard to push them together as well? Do the locator pins and holes line up? Parts from VTI, Taylors, Cimarron. You will probably have to fit it. Why not just replace the spring? edit to add: when I have to take apart a really tight one (usually when new), I put a dowel down the bore until it is up against the recoil shield and tap the end while holding the barrel to push the frame off. Edited January 25 by Abilene, SASS # 27489 1 1 Quote
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted January 25 Posted January 25 Waimea, It's not just the pins. The major problem is the fit of the Arbor in the Barrel Lug Bore. First, take an old fashioned spring Clothes pin apart. Turn the two parts inside out so they act as wedges to one another and put them together just under the Arbor on the lug flat. Tap them together with a small hammer and they will push the gun apart easily (remember to remove the wedge first). then you will need to dress the Arbor with some 220 Grit Wet/Dry to remove burrs. then make a flap sander out of a 3/8 dowel with a slot cut across it. Use the resulting flap sander to dress the inside of the bore to remove any burrs (they ARE there) and to make a nice smooth fit. Thought you were done?? Nope Now you will have to address the atrocious Barrel to Arbor fit (Short Arbor Syndrome). It is also fairly easy to convert them to Coil Spring and Plunger for the Hand. And THAT is a "forever" fix. 1 Quote
Dapper Dave Posted January 25 Posted January 25 All I can say is I know a guy who specializes in black powder revolvers in Bisbee AZ who can fix them for you. He did my 1860 and it's fantastic. Quote
Choctaw Jack Posted January 25 Posted January 25 Ken Griner, Griner Gunworks,can correct the arbor fitment issue as well as the coil spring conversion. He's done two pairs of pistols for me and they are great! Choctaw Quote
Waimea Posted January 25 Author Posted January 25 11 hours ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said: Is it really hard to push them together as well? Do the locator pins and holes line up? Parts from VTI, Taylors, Cimarron. You will probably have to fit it. Why not just replace the spring? edit to add: when I have to take apart a really tight one (usually when new), I put a dowel down the bore until it is up against the recoil shield and tap the end while holding the barrel to push the frame off. It is hard to get them together, yes. I have kind of tested just the arbor barrel fit by twisting the barrel assembly so the pins and holes don't line up and the barrel goes onto the arbor easily. Dowel idea is BRILLIANT! Thanks. 10 hours ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said: Waimea, It's not just the pins. The major problem is the fit of the Arbor in the Barrel Lug Bore. First, take an old fashioned spring Clothes pin apart. Turn the two parts inside out so they act as wedges to one another and put them together just under the Arbor on the lug flat. Tap them together with a small hammer and they will push the gun apart easily (remember to remove the wedge first). then you will need to dress the Arbor with some 220 Grit Wet/Dry to remove burrs. then make a flap sander out of a 3/8 dowel with a slot cut across it. Use the resulting flap sander to dress the inside of the bore to remove any burrs (they ARE there) and to make a nice smooth fit. Thought you were done?? Nope Now you will have to address the atrocious Barrel to Arbor fit (Short Arbor Syndrome). It is also fairly easy to convert them to Coil Spring and Plunger for the Hand. And THAT is a "forever" fix. I may have short Arbor Syndrome on one of the guns bc when I apply the wedge it draws the barrel in so tight the cylinder has a hard time rotating. Where do you get the coil spring and plunger? 1 hour ago, Choctaw Jack said: Ken Griner, Griner Gunworks,can correct the arbor fitment issue as well as the coil spring conversion. He's done two pairs of pistols for me and they are great! Choctaw Thanks! 10 hours ago, Dapper Dave said: All I can say is I know a guy who specializes in black powder revolvers in Bisbee AZ who can fix them for you. He did my 1860 and it's fantastic. Can you share contact info? Thanks Quote
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted January 25 Posted January 25 Waimea, The spring and plunger are Ruger parts sourced from Brownells. Pawl Spring Plunger #780-001-231 and Latch Pawl Spring #780-000-464, you will need a 5/64 drill. If you want to set these guns up yourself, avail yourself of Pettifoggers tutorial on tuning/fixing the Open Top. 1 Quote
Eyesa Horg Posted January 25 Posted January 25 45 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said: Waimea, The spring and plunger are Ruger parts sourced from Brownells. Pawl Spring Plunger #780-001-231 and Latch Pawl Spring #780-000-464, you will need a 5/64 drill. If you want to set these guns up yourself, avail yourself of Pettifoggers tutorial on tuning/fixing the Open Top. My question is.... Is there a precise spot the hole needs to be drilled. Pettifogger's article doesn't really say. I presume just below the grip frame screw hole??? Thanks. Quote
Waimea Posted January 25 Author Posted January 25 1 hour ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said: Waimea, you will need a 5/64 drill. This killed it for DIY for me. 1 Quote
Griff Posted January 26 Posted January 26 8 hours ago, Eyesa Horg said: My question is.... Is there a precise spot the hole needs to be drilled. Pettifogger's article doesn't really say. I presume just below the grip frame screw hole??? Thanks. My 1st one was done back in the late 1980s and the hole is drilled just above the backstrap screw hole. I've had the same conversion done to 3 more 1851s and 2 Colt SAAs. Boomstick is currently doing another pair of 1851s for me. Luckily I've only ever broke a hand spring during a monthly match... and that once was enough to convince me that this is a necessary modification. In the 38 years since it's conversion, it's never become a concern. Like CC sez, it's a "forever fix." Quote
Tyrel Cody Posted January 26 Posted January 26 9 hours ago, Eyesa Horg said: My question is.... Is there a precise spot the hole needs to be drilled. Pettifogger's article doesn't really say. I presume just below the grip frame screw hole??? Thanks. Scroll down and look at tuning the Pietta Part Two, shows how to measure for it so should apply to Ubertis as well. 1 1 Quote
Eyesa Horg Posted January 26 Posted January 26 26 minutes ago, Tyrel Cody said: Scroll down and look at tuning the Pietta Part Two, shows how to measure for it so should apply to Ubertis as well. I was looking for the vertical height. If I remember right, the article only details finding the center of the slot horizontally. I'll have to reread it. Quote
Griff Posted January 26 Posted January 26 Here's a pic of the position of the hole on my SAA. A Uberti I have has the spring & plunger placed thru the backstrap screw hole. My 1851's, (a ASM & 2nd Gen Colts) have the hole directly above the screw hole. It's easy enough to locate by measuring where the slot is in the frame at the bottom of the frame & the trigger guard removed. 1 Quote
Dapper Dave Posted January 26 Posted January 26 11 hours ago, Waimea said: Can you share contact info? Thanks Sent via PM 1 Quote
Eyesa Horg Posted January 26 Posted January 26 11 hours ago, Griff said: Here's a pic of the position of the hole on my SAA. A Uberti I have has the spring & plunger placed thru the backstrap screw hole. My 1851's, (a ASM & 2nd Gen Colts) have the hole directly above the screw hole. It's easy enough to locate by measuring where the slot is in the frame at the bottom of the frame & the trigger guard removed. Thanks Griff, that's what I was looking for. I didn't want to be too high or low and have the hand hit or pop off it. Quote
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