If you reload the .410 I've got a question for you

[Black Angus McPherson]

I've been reloading .410 for years, but, I've been reloading the "old" AA compression formed hulls and not the new "HS" hulls.  Now I'm out of the old style .410 wads for the compression formed hulls and they are no longer available.  I still have ~200 .410 compression formed hulls.

 

The questions:  Can I use the new red HS .410 wads when loading the old compression formed hulls?  If I can use the HS wads in the older hulls do I use my old load or the new load listed for HS hulls and wads?  I am using H110 and there is about a 1 to 3 grain increase in powder charge with the new hulls.  I don't have the numbers in front of me, but I think it's 13.7 grains up to 16-17 grains.  Load data from Hodgdon manual.

 

I've only been loading the .410 HS hulls for about a month and I don't get anywhere near as nice a crimp as I do on the old hulls.

 

Thanks,

 

Angus

[Rattlesnake Slim]

I've loaded HS wads in the occasional non-HS hull that I find lying around (only another .410 shooter understands the joy of a found .410 hull). They seem to work ok. On the other hand, non-HS wads will not work well in HS hulls, they don't seal well enough and you get a large percentage of weak loads. I would just use your regular load in the old style hulls.

[Linn Keller, SASS 27332, BOLD 103]

Any time there's discussing the .410, I'm listening with both eyes!

 

[Rooster Ron Wayne]

I have been loading 410 for more years then I can remember. 

For Me ! 

I don't care what the Brand of shell it is .

I load them all with the same components and same load of Unique powder. 

I have never seen a difference in the way it performs. 

Just Sayin. 

Rooster 

[Black Angus McPherson]

On 10/14/2024 at 5:11 AM, Rooster Ron Wayne said:

I have been loading 410 for more years then I can remember. 

For Me ! 

I don't care what the Brand of shell it is .

I load them all with the same components and same load of Unique powder. 

I have never seen a difference in the way it performs. 

Just Sayin. 

Rooster 

 

I tried a couple .410 HS hulls with a "regular" AA wad and my standard charge.  They went POOF instead of BANG.  IIRC they broke the target, but they sure did not inspire confidence.

 

I don't think I've ever loaded anything but Winchester AA's in the .410.

 

I suppose I'll just experiment a little.  I'll try a couple compression formed hulls with HS wads using both pre and post HS powder charges.

Not today, tho.  I need to get a Round Tuit.

 

Angus

[watab kid]

On 10/13/2024 at 7:57 PM, Linn Keller, SASS 27332, BOLD 103 said:

Any time there's discussing the .410, I'm listening with both eyes!

 

me too , i know nothing but an trying to learn all i can , 

[Elkhorn Ernie]

Claybuster .410 wads can be used in both the older style AA shells , as well as the newer HS shells. From what I read they said to use your normal non HS shell load in the non HS shells. So, you should be able to use those in your older shells. 

[Grizz Henry]

Angus,

I also have been reloading 410 for many years.  I shoot skeet with the 410 so you just know that I go thru lots of loadings in plastic hulls.  When the crimp area of the hull splits  I used to cut the crimp portion back and used an over the shot wad glued in with Titebond II or III.  Then I got experimenting with fire forming 303 British rifle cases which gave me almost the length of 2 1/2 " 410 hulls.  I found that the case heads varied considerably in thickness and had to file some, but not all, 303 case heads so that my O/U shotgun would go into battery OK.  Then I read that 444 Marlin rifle cases worked the nuts.  This eliminated the fire forming process with the 303 Brit cases but i found case head thickness differences, as with the 303 , that required some filing.  About this time Magtech brass 410's became available and I secured them.  But the ID of the Magtech hulls  is a significantly larger ID than the plastic 410 hulls and requires using a larger diameter over the powder wad  (.45 ) in order to get a positive gas seal.  Otherwise you get blooper rounds if regular 410 plastic wads are used directly over the powder charge.  I make my own (.45 ) over powder wads punched from hard card material or you can purchase  .45 sized over powder card wads  from Midway USA .  Once the .45 over powder wad is firmly seated you can use any regular plastic .410 wads , add shot and an over the shot wad glued in with your choice of glue ( I use Titebond II or III).   This loading technique has produced excellent reloads with NO blooper rounds because of the oversized .45 diam over powder wad making a tight gas seal.  No more worn out plastic hulls.  These brass hulls wear forever !  Reloading them gives me as much pleasure and relaxation as tying my own trout flies !  Try it, you'll like them.

 

Grizz

Edited October 17 by Grizz Henry

[Chief Rick]

Ballistic Products has the Magtech brass hulls available.

[Grizz Henry]

Here are some other sources for Magtech  410 Brass Hulls

 

Brownells - $32.99/25

 

Grafs & Sons  - $35.99/25

 

Midway USA  - $37.99/25

 

 

Edited October 17 by Grizz Henry

[Black Angus McPherson]

20 hours ago, Elkhorn Ernie said:

Claybuster .410 wads can be used in both the older style AA shells , as well as the newer HS shells. From what I read they said to use your normal non HS shell load in the non HS shells. So, you should be able to use those in your older shells. 

 

Claybuster wads for the HS .410 is what I'm using.  I'll give them a try with the old hulls I have left.  I've got ~1000 new HS .410 hulls to work my way thru.

 

5 hours ago, Grizz Henry said:

Angus,

I also have been reloading 410 for many years.  I shoot skeet with the 410 so you just know that I go thru lots of loadings in plastic hulls.  When the crimp area of the hull splits  I used to cut the crimp portion back and used an over the shot wad glued in with Titebond II or III.  Then I got experimenting with fire forming 303 British rifle cases which gave me almost the length of 2 1/2 " 410 hulls.  I found that the case heads varied considerably in thickness and had to file some, but not all, 303 case heads so that my O/U shotgun would go into battery OK.  Then I read that 444 Marlin rifle cases worked the nuts.  This eliminated the fire forming process with the 303 Brit cases but i found case head thickness differences, as with the 303 , that required some filing.  About this time Magtech brass 410's became available and I secured them.  But the ID of the Magtech hulls  is a significantly larger ID than the plastic 410 hulls and requires using a larger diameter over the powder wad  (.45 ) in order to get a positive gas seal.  Otherwise you get blooper rounds if regular 410 plastic wads are used directly over the powder charge.  I make my own (.45 ) over powder wads punched from hard card material or you can purchase  .45 sized over powder card wads  from Midway USA .  Once the .45 over powder wad is firmly seated you can use any regular plastic .410 wads , add shot and an over the shot wad glued in with your choice of glue ( I use Titebond II or III).   This loading technique has produced excellent reloads with NO blooper rounds because of the oversized .45 diam over powder wad making a tight gas seal.  No more worn out plastic hulls.  These brass hulls wear forever !  Reloading them gives me as much pleasure and relaxation as tying my own trout flies !  Try it, you'll like them.

 

Grizz

 

Brass shotshells are cool, but I'm way too lazy for that.    Although that might help solve the problem with scarcity of shotgun primers.

 

Angus

 

 

[Linn Keller, SASS 27332, BOLD 103]

Some years back, before retirement, when I still had a paycheck and something called "Disposable Income" --

My birthday was coming up fast and my wife said "You need to buy yourself something for your birthday."

Then she said, "The .410 is my favorite shotgun."

Our local hardware store had a Henry .410 lever shotgun.

My wife can run our Rossi .357 lever gun in fine shape.

I bought "myself" *ahem* a .410 that year for my birthday (yeah, right!)

The Henry takes a 2-1/2 inch, won't chamber a 3" if single loaded and if you try to run a 3-inch hull through the magazine, it requires disassembly to clear the jam.

2-1/2 inch was scarce at that time, brass hulls were utterly unavailable at that moment in time.

I ended up with a box of new unprimed .444 Marlin brass.

Loading with 2400 and a nice snug over powder wad, an over shot wad with hot glue and seems to work fine and dandy!

[H. K. Uriah, SASS #74619]

I reload .410 with .444 Marlin brass and shot capsules.