Rattlesnake Slim

You can submit a "Modification Consideration Form" to the Intergalactic Federation of Smokey Shotgunners and we will consider altering the requirements. Remember, we're stronger together.

Any BP/sub more than 35 grains by weight with 7/8 to 1 ounce of shot. BP and sub shotgun shells ain't picky, just about any hull and any wad that gives a good crimp will do. I've even reloaded some of the cheap 6 point crimp shells, they aren't pretty but stay closed long enough to go bang.

Setup starts Wednesday February 23rd, and Monday March 7th is tear-down day. We always appreciate any and all help; a day or two, or an hour or two. There's something for every physical ability to do, and usually cigars and...well...umm...you know what after the tools are put away.

I shoot 20 and 12 interchangeably, both with smokeless and APP. The only real difference is that because both the gun and the empty hull are lighter than 12, the 20 takes a little more "shuck" to clear the empties. It will remind you very quickly if you get lazy.

My first CAS rifle was a Browning 92. It had the bottom half of the lever wrapped with several layers of leather lacing like shoelaces. Then it was covered in several coats of lacquer to keep everything in place. Worked well for me for six or seven years.

Arizona shooters that are tough enough to shoot at 100 degrees plus (morning temps) ain't going to be scared away by covid. Ammo shortage? Our cowboys/cowgirls are tough enough to knock down shotgun fallers just by spittin' on em from the firing line. Don't believe me? Come to EOT and we'll show you. I guarantee you'll have the time of your life!

Those of us old silhouette shooters used to have good luck fire forming wildcat brass using 1 or 2 grains of Bullseye with a paraffin wax plug in the neck end.

In a word, yes. The gunsmith that built my rifle told me that for the best, most reliable functioning, the headstamp on the brass should match what's stamped on the barrel. However, using .357 brass may not be magic. Most '92's are very length sensitive, and you may still have to tweak the overall cartridge length some. But starting with .357 brass puts you in the right spot.

Yes, that's one option, and anywhere else it touches. Once you get the stock off it should be obvious where the wood has been crushed by the receiver.

The stock is splitting because the receiver is hitting the stock near the crack with every shot. You need to create some space. You can either inlet the stock near the receiver (and everywhere else it is touching) or add a spacer at the back where the tang touches the stock.

But that won't solve the problem of the fit. If you aren't comfortable with the inletting, you can simply use a piece of old credit card plastic to make a spacer to go between the tang and the stock. Cut it the size of the tang and drill a hole for the bolt. It may leave a space between the metal and wood, but that's better than splitting your newly repaired stock. BTW, I do this on every Stoeger I buy BEFORE they split.