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Howdy!

 

The cylinder in one of my revolvers is over-rotating when the hammer is cocked faster than normal. I shoot gunfighter, and when cocking the hammer with the gun in one hand, the cylinder seems to be timed correctly. However, when holding the revolver with two hands and using my non-dominant hand to cock the hammer quickly, the cylinder over-rotates. I only shoot two handed for 50 yrd. pistol side matches, so this is where it's a problem right now. I don't know if this can get worse, so I'd like to know what anyone has done to correct this issue. 

 

I recently replaced the bolt (cylinder stop) on this pistol. 

 

Thank you to anyone who can point me in the right direction!

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Posted (edited)

Larsen is right on, as usual.  Different brands tend to have different issues. If your "problem child" is a Ruger, send it back to Ruger and they will do a good job of diagnosing and fixing the problem (remove any aftermarket parts before retuning it; if you don't, they will remove them and toss them in the trash). Pietta's have been known to have bolt fitment issues.  I've had four of them have had similar issues to what you describe.  Two required new cylinders and the other two had to have bolts replaced and/or fitted. 

 

I'm not totally incompetent with single actions revolvers, but a revolver with lock-up problems or other serious issues, gets sent to an excellent cowboy gunsmith. 

 

Edited by TN Mongo, SASS #61450
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Was it doing it before you replaced the bolt.  If not, then the bolt probably needs fitting to the notch.  If it was doing it before, then it could be something else but may still need that fitting.  Weak bolt spring, as mentioned.  If the hand spring is too light, that can add to the problem as well.

 

Larsen, I think you need a new muffler bearing.

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If this is a Ruger Vaquero,  has the gun in question been short-stroked? Inertia?  You should have the timing checked by a cowboy gunsmith that you trust.  Did you replace the bolt before or after you discovered the issue?

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My S&W Schofield did the same. Eventually, I found that the bolt stop pin was bent and would rotate. When the pin rotated so the bend was at the bottom, the bolt stop would not be high enough to engage the cylinder.

 

I pulled the pin, straightened it on a flat surface and problem resolved.

 

Took me a long time to find that problem.

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Sorry guys, I didn't even realize I didn't list make and model. It's a Cimarron 1851 Navy conversion. 

 

No, the cylinder did not over-rotate before I replaced the bolt. Seems like this is the culprit. 

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Hold the cylinder with your hand while slowly locking.  Ideally, the bolt pops up when the leading edge of the cylinder notch is exactly lined up with the left edge of the hammer slot in the frame. If is popping up after that (late), it can cause the skipping when cocked fast. Taking a bit off the bolt leg where it rides the hammer cam will advance the timing a bit.

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1 hour ago, The Last Gunslinger said:

Sorry guys, I didn't even realize I didn't list make and model. It's a Cimarron 1851 Navy conversion. 

 

No, the cylinder did not over-rotate before I replaced the bolt. Seems like this is the culprit. 

  You did set the timing? these bolts are not just drop it in and you are good to go.

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6 hours ago, Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 said:

My car is malfunctioning.  Can you help?

You are not using the correct fuel.

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1 hour ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said:

Hold the cylinder with your hand while slowly locking.  Ideally, the bolt pops up when the leading edge of the cylinder notch is exactly lined up with the left edge of the hammer slot in the frame. If is popping up after that (late), it can cause the skipping when cocked fast. Taking a bit off the bolt leg where it rides the hammer cam will advance the timing a bit.

 

18 minutes ago, Texas Jack Black said:

  You did set the timing? these bolts are not just drop it in and you are good to go.

Ah, thank you! No, I didn’t realize this needed to be modified. This is great, thank you guys. 

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Posted (edited)

Added an arrow to Abilene's photo to show where "at this point" is located.  You also need to make sure the head of the bolt fits into the cylinder notch.  Sometimes they are wide and need to be fitted in addition to setting bolt drop.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.dd82cfbf447164f87b775d2d82c15629(1).jpeg.a51f312248add4c2762fbb9e9288705a.jpeg

Edited by Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933
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This is why identifying the make and model and giving a description of what has been done to the gun is important.  Most Uberti, Pietta and all Ruger single actions use a coil spring and plunger on the hand/pawl.  The Uberti conversions use the old stle leaf spring on the hand.  When a SAA clone over rotates the first thing to look at is if the hand spring is broken or weak.  Next would be the bolt/trigger spring.  Last would be the bolt.  In you case everything is the reverse since you changed the factory bolt.  So it is bolt, bolt/trigger spring then look at the hand/pawl leaf spring while you have the gun apart.

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3 hours ago, The Last Gunslinger said:

Sorry guys, I didn't even realize I didn't list make and model. It's a Cimarron 1851 Navy conversion. 

 

No, the cylinder did not over-rotate before I replaced the bolt. Seems like this is the culprit. 

Why did you replace the cyl stop then?:huh:

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14 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Why did you replace the cyl stop then?:huh:

The bolt / cylinder stop snapped and I replaced it. I didn't realize this effected the timing and needed to be adjusted. I took some sandpaper to the two edges on the tail end of it last night. Seems to have taken care of it. Thanks again, guys! I really appreciate it.

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