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UPDATED: RESOLVED! Failure to Fire Issue .38 special


Michael Ricochet

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It's been my observation that every cartridge that fires shows a clear primer firing pin strike because the case recoils back against the primer.  Double check that the primers are fully seated to the bottom of the pocket.   Just flush may not mean the primer is fully seated.  

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6 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

 Double check that the primers are fully seated to the bottom of the pocket.   Just flush may not mean the primer is fully seated.  

 

THIS, X 'forever'.

The primer should be below the case head. 

OLG

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18 hours ago, Shifty Bob said:

I gave not purchased my first SA pistol yet. I was considering a Taylor's smoke waggon or running iron pistol. Reading this thread it sounds like the type firing pin used on these pistols my be an issue. Should I consider a ruger instead?

 

Ruger is 100% USA made, and their customer service is outstanding. They are 'tanks' and hold up in this game very, very well.

OLG

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10 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

It's been my observation that every cartridge that fires shows a clear primer firing pin strike because the case recoils back against the primer.  Double check that the primers are fully seated to the bottom of the pocket.   Just flush may not mean the primer is fully seated.  

Anything is possible, but this same batch of rounds ran flawlessly in my R92 and the primers seem to be consistently below flush on my Hornady progressive press. 

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41 minutes ago, Possum Pete said:

Anything is possible, but this same batch of rounds ran flawlessly in my R92 and the primers seem to be consistently below flush on my Hornady progressive press. 

 

Another suggestion - I've had several revolvers with failure to fire when new. I traced the problem down to an extra strong spring leg on the bolt that rides over the cam on the hammer.  A combination of strong spring leg, burrs and rough cam on hammer causes a lot of drag on the hammer as it falls.  You won't notice it as it doesn't drag when you cock the hammer and then you won't notice it when the hammer falls. This drag is putting the brakes on the hammer fall. 

 

The test...  take the hammer spring out but keep the rest of the action assembled.   Cock the gun and then lower the hammer manually.  You will notice a drag about half way down on the hammer fall.  The drag is the leg of the bolt sliding over the cam on the hammer.  There has to be some drag but if it's very noticeable,  then look for burrs inside the frame, on bolt, and on cam on hammer. 

 

Depending on your confidence level, try polishing the burrs off the inside of frame, bolt where it rubs against the frame, and bolt leg where it slides over the cam.  Polish the cam face.  Take care not to change any profile of the leg of the bolt or cam on hammer as this will change the timing.   Try the test again without hammer spring and see if the drag is reduced.  It may be enough.  

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  • 1 month later...

UPDATE 12/1/2017

 

First, let me tell you that Long Hunter has top notch customer service. They received my pistols on Friday afternoon and had them back in the mail to me the following Wednesday. That was quick turn around! And the work corrected the issues. They really stand behind their work and reputation.

 

Both pistols were "fixed" as follows:

 

The first pistol (P1) exhibited the issue first stated in my first post of this thread - would only go bang when "slip hammered". When firing "normally" would not go bang. The issue with P1 was that the firing pin was too short from the factory (Uberti). LH replaced the firing pin and it functions like its supposed to.

 

My second pistol (P2) I picked up just before our annual match on November 11th (California 30 day waiting period for handguns)  and I was really disappointed to discover that P2 would go bang when fired "normally" however would not fire when "slip hammered". Needless to say the match was a challenge to remember how to fire which pistol. LH says that the issue for P2 was that "the back of the pusher arm in the trigger mechanism was rounded off and would slip off and the firing pin would retract". LH "replaced the trigger assembly and also added some metal to the back of the pusher arm" as they discovered testing the new trigger assembly some issues as well.

 

Both issues were an Uberti manufacturing defect.

 

LH tested both pistols with CCI primers to ensure they would go bang every time. They took the time to make sure I would have no further issues.

 

I took both pistols out to the range the day after I received them (Tuesday this week) and fired both Federal 100 and CCI primers and every one went bang. I tested "normal" firing as well as "slip hammer" and every one went bang. So now I don't have to worry about my guns not going bang!

 

Really happy with the response from Long Hunter. They paid shipping both ways. They never tried to blame me for the issue nor blame my ammo. They took the pistols and fixes them right. I would highly recommend dealing with them!

 

Ricochet

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That’s good news!

 

 Sadly, mine is going back to Taylor’s a second time due to the light strikes being even worse after they “repaired” it. I appreciate that Taylor’s is paying the shipping both ways, but I’m getting frustrated. The lady on the phone said that the new safety system isn’t that different from their old system they had since 2002, which was news to me, and seemed to wonder what my problem was. If this doesn’t cut it, I’ll see if my FFL can refund me, Taylor’s said they wouldn’t.

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On 12/1/2017 at 12:20 PM, Lead Monger said:

Fixing the retracting firing pin problem is simple. Loose the funny parts, drill a hole in the hammer and install a fixed firing pin just like they had before.

 

That's what I would do !

 

The most 'annoying' what I read in the complete story is that Uberti does not (want to) provide / (wants to) sell the old hammers anymore !

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I have a few generations of Uberti revolvers. Changes happen over the years. Long triggers, short triggers, long and short bolts. At least four different hammers with round cams or "D" cams and different hand pin sizes. I can understand not making old pattern parts. Machines are set up for the current production. Just have to figure the best way around the better ideas that come along.

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The Taylor’s gun guru told me the new hammer system was on the 1873 family; open tops etc were not impacted

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1 hour ago, Too Tall Bob said:

The Yaylor’s gun guru told me the new hammer system was on the 1873 family; open tops rtc were not impacted

Did the guru happen to mention when this started in terms of manufacture dates?  It would be good information when looking for used guns. 

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On 12/3/2017 at 6:45 PM, Chuckwagon McTaggart said:

Did the guru happen to mention when this started in terms of manufacture dates?  It would be good information when looking for used guns. 

Ok, so I talked with Taylors again and here is a summation of the conversation:

Cattleman-II’s:  introduced around July/August 2016; as of August 2017 all full frame (1873 family) revolvers have floating firing pin. 

 

Old style Smokewagon hammers no longer available

Old style Cattleman hammers available to order and may be in stock

Old style Running Iron hammers no longer available

Old style 1873 trigger assemblies are available but not in stock

 

REMEMBER:  Cattleman and Smokewagon revolver hammers are different!

 

Hope this helps.

TTB

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1 hour ago, Too Tall Bob said:

Ok, so I talked with Taylors again and here is a summation of the conversation:

Cattleman-II’s:  introduced around July/August 2016; as of August 2017 all full frame (1873 family) revolvers have floating firing pin. 

 

Old style Smokewagon hammers no longer available

Old style Cattleman hammers available to order and may be in stock

Old style Running Iron hammers no longer available

Old style 1873 trigger assemblies are available but not in stock

 

REMEMBER:  Cattleman and Smokewagon revolver hammers are different!

 

Hope this helps.

TTB

 

Great info Too Tall Bob !

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