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Cylinder Seizes Up


Curley Fryes

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I am using 2 Uberti Cattleman Hombres, using 38 special LFN ammo. On one of the guns every once in a while I'm having trouble cocking the gun. When I try and cock the cylinder seizes up and won't move. It will move if I help it along with my fingers. It doesn't happen all the time, but it's annoying. No trouble with the other gun, same ammo. Can one of you experts tell me what may be causing this? Thanks!

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If you haven't fired a round yet, check the primers for signs of dragging, could indicate too little headspace or a raised portion on the recoil shield.

 

If you have already fired rounds could be too much headspace, causing not reseating the primers after firing.

 

Another thought, if immediately after loading the gun. Do you set the gun at half cock, load, then cock fully and let hammer down slowly on empty chamber? I see people all the time who will load, then release the hammer down to the empty chamber without cocking. This will on occasion cause a binding of the hand on the cam on side of hammer.

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I have a pair of .357 Hombre's that seem to be particularly sensitive to high primers. Would get the same symptom. An extra trip around for the cylinder at the loading table preempted the problem. A new priming tool cured it.

 

Just one possibility

SS

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One other thing to check is the three frame screws below the cylinder. I had a similar issue on one of mine (though not out of the box). When I was checking them, one was loose. After tightening them down, it has not happened since.

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Look at the frame where the firing pin sticks through. See if a burr has developed. A very common problem on Ubertis. If there is a burr, take a stone and stone it down.

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Look at the frame where the firing pin sticks through. See if a burr has developed. A very common problem on Ubertis. If there is a burr, take a stone and stone it down.

Yep, firing pin hole (bushing), burr will drag across face of cartridge and primer. Often caused by dry firing Colt style actions without snap caps. Good Luck :)

 

 

Jefro :ph34r: Relax-Enjoy

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Could also be cylinder gap is too tight. Check with a feeler gage. If shooting black powder you want about 8 thousands gap. (you might verify this number before filing) Had a Vaquero once that would start binding after a few shots. A few file strokes took care of the problem.

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At the risk of asking the flamingly obvious question, Did you by any chance swap cylinders between your two guns?

I am not sure but on some revolvers part of the serial number is stamped on the cylinder.

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At the risk of asking the flamingly obvious question, Did you by any chance swap cylinders between your two guns?

I am not sure but on some revolvers part of the serial number is stamped on the cylinder.

Nope, always clean one gun at a time, keep all parts together with the same gun.

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If you haven't fired a round yet, check the primers for signs of dragging, could indicate too little headspace or a raised portion on the recoil shield.

 

If you have already fired rounds could be too much headspace, causing not reseating the primers after firing.

 

Another thought, if immediately after loading the gun. Do you set the gun at half cock, load, then cock fully and let hammer down slowly on empty chamber? I see people all the time who will load, then release the hammer down to the empty chamber without cocking. This will on occasion cause a binding of the hand on the cam on side of hammer.

Always cock fully and let hammer down on empty chamber.

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Look at the frame where the firing pin sticks through. See if a burr has developed. A very common problem on Ubertis. If there is a burr, take a stone and stone it down.

Well I can pull the hammer back about a quarter of the way before it binds.

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One other thing to check is the three frame screws below the cylinder. I had a similar issue on one of mine (though not out of the box). When I was checking them, one was loose. After tightening them down, it has not happened since.

I will check the screws.....thanks.

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Well I can pull the hammer back about a quarter of the way before it binds.

That doesn't make any difference. There only way to tell if there is a burr is to LOOK.

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Have you replaced the spring on trigger? I've seen were a trigger will not reset fully, and cause a bind. Next time a bind occurs, try moving trigger forward and see if cylinder will then move freely. Had a Uberti that did this after I replaced the spring with a Wolf kit. Spring was weak, new spring cured it. MT

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Have you replaced the spring on trigger? I've seen were a trigger will not reset fully, and cause a bind. Next time a bind occurs, try moving trigger forward and see if cylinder will then move freely. Had a Uberti that did this after I replaced the spring with a Wolf kit. Spring was weak, new spring cured it. MT

Haven't replaced the spring. Will try and moving the trigger forward and see what happens......thanks

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Well I can pull the hammer back about a quarter of the way before it binds.

Take the cylinder out, look at the face of the recoil shield where the firing pin sticks out. Pull hammer back to first click or half cock. Rub your finger or a straight edge across the face of recoil shield at the firing pin hole, that's where the burr could be draging on the cartridges. If there is a burr hit with a flat finish stone. Use snap caps when dry firing to prevent burr from wallering out in the future. Good Luck :)

 

Jefro :ph34r: Relax-Enjoy

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Take the cylinder out, look at the face of the recoil shield where the firing pin sticks out. Pull hammer back to first click or half cock. Rub your finger or a straight edge across the face of recoil shield at the firing pin hole, that's where the burr could be draging on the cartridges. If there is a burr hit with a flat finish stone. Use snap caps when dry firing to prevent burr from wallering out in the future. Good Luck :)

 

Jefro :ph34r: Relax-Enjoy

Thanks....I'll try that...but I always use snap caps!

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Take a feeler gauge and measure the cylinder gap. If it is less than .003 or so, it could simply be fouling accumulating on the cylinder face...not as likely with smokeless powder, but doesn't cost anything to check.

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At the risk of asking the flamingly obvious question, Did you by any chance swap cylinders between your two guns?

I am not sure but on some revolvers part of the serial number is stamped on the cylinder.

Well, you were right Hacker! Somehow, probably when cleaning, the cylinders got swapped. Put the correct cylinders in the correct guns and, voila, problem gone! Thanks everyone for your help!

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