Pee Wee #15785

Here is instruction from a guy that knew what he was doing. Old members may remember this. Longshot Logan INSTRUCTIONS FOR REFINISHING A UBERTI STOCK. I have been refinishing gunstocks for 30 years on and off. Over the past several years I have done quite a few Uberti rifles and handgun grips to get the red sprayed finish off. Here is the method I use all the time for great results. List of items needed. 1.) Quart of Orange Citristrip gel. Available at most larger Hardware stores. 2.) 00 Steel wool and 0000 steel wool. 3.) Minwax Oil Base stain in your choice of color. 4.) 1 paint stick. 5.) Formby's Tung Oil, either high or low gloss. 6.) Old cotton Tee shirt. 7.) Steam Iron. 8.) 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper. 9.) Rubber disposable gloves. 10) Disposable foam brush. 11) Cheap white 1 inch bristle brush 12) Old Newspapers. 13) Old toothbrush (if checkered) On a 73 - To remove the fore-stock, you first have to remove the two screws that hold the fore end cap on, and then remove the block that the screws mount to from it's dovetail. Then tap out the pin in the mag tube mounting block on the end of the barrel (this locks the mag tube in place). Slide the mag tube forward and out, then the block out of the dovetail. The fore end will then slide off. You may be able to remove the fore end without removing the block at the end of the barrel by just sliding the mag tube forward enough to drop off the fore end. The rifle should be disassembled and the wood placed aside on a good work bench free of debris and clutter. Lay out a piece of newspaper and lay the forearm and butt stock down. Apply the Citristrip with the bristle brush liberally ( as thick as you can ) to both pieces covering the sides as much as you can. Now forget about it for about 40 minutes minimum. This stuff stays active for 24 hours so you could even put it on and leave it for a long time. This wood now will be mostly free of the finish where you applied the citristrip ( It smells nice so you wife won't kill you ) Use the paint stick wearing the rubber gloves and scrape the finish off. it won't all come off the first time and will need to be repeated. The 00 Steel wool is excellent for taking the finish off after scraping. Change the newspaper and lay the wood down again and do another area. You will go through a few pieces of newspaper before your done. As you go follow the same routine with the paint stick and steel wool. Once the wood is bare and clean you can apply one more coat of the citristrip, let it sit a few minutes and then wipe it off following with a good rub down with the 0000 (Extra fine steel wool). You will be amazed at the results. If the stocks are checkered the old toothbrush works well taking the finish out of the checkering. Now to look over the stock for damage. If there are actual gouges where the wood grain is cut you will have to decide if sanding them out is an option. If there are dents (most likely) then move onto the next step. With the flat iron set hot enough to produce steam (no hotter) take a 6 inch piece of the old tee shirt and soak it in water and squeeze it out. Fold it over a couple of time and place it over the dent. Put the steam iron over it and you will see what happens. The water in the cotton is forced into the wood grain and raises the dent out of the wood. Repeat until it's all out. This take very little time. Once you are happy with your work take it to the kitchen and quickly run the stock under water and pat it quickly to get the excess water off it. Now hold it about two feet over the stove burner constantly moving it until dry. You will feel whiskers all over. These are the end grains of the wood. Use the 400 grit paper very lightly to knock them off followed by a good rub down with 0000 steel wool. The stock should now be ready for final finishing. Use the Stain with the foam brush applying it heavy and letting it sit. After a few minutes wipe the excess off and see if that is the color you want. Reapply for a darker finish. When it looks nice let it dry 24 hours, I know this part will kill you but it is important. When dry use the 0000 steel wool lightly and wipe down with a clean cloth. To apply the Tung oil follow the labels directions. the first few coats take the longest to dry but after that you can put 2 or 3 coats on in one day. I use a piece of the old cotton tee shirt folded into a 2 inch square and make long runs following the grain to apply the finish. Don't apply this finish in anything but thin coats. I usually put 10-12 coats. After every couple of coats (when dry) go over it with 0000 steel wool. I have a wood dowel to hold the forearm and a wood dowel to hold the stock and have them in a 2x4 so the pieces stand up to dry. In a weekend you can get the Uberti to look like a million dollars. Be careful if you use sandpaper to stay away from the stock' sharp edges )the parts that attach or come up to metal) if you over sand these areas the job will look lousy. This procedure take patience but well worth the end results. If you can get the exact items I described you will be set. To get the high gloss finish just end with a coat of tung oil. To get the low gloss after several layers and when dry just go slowly and steel wool with 0000 followed by furniture polish. This finish can be touched up easily. Longshot Logan

I have 4 stock 2nd gen 1851 Colts with after market nipples, 4 1851 Uberti that are stock except for the nipples all used as match guns. No cap guards or cap rakes. I have timed all of them. You need the strong hammer spring but not as strong as the current production guns use. Learn to to do the gun slinger pose when cocking the hammer so the spent cap falls on the ground. Non of the guns has ever had a cap tie up the hammer where a live cap did not go off when the hammer dropped. I have had bad Arther from the mid 80's so went from Old armies, 1860's and LaMatts to 1851 Navies to keep shooting.

I loaded SR4756, 8.5 gr behind 200 gr Origan Trails LRNFP. I had forgot just how sweet the powder was. I could even see the targets.

I had an unopened pound of IMR SR4756 but now some is in 200 rounds of .44WCF. I had forgot it was in the powder locker. Will load another 200 for a Wild Bunch shoot in Ohio on the 30th. When it is gone I may cry in my beer as I do like it and know of no other powder to replace it.

I use FFFg in my .44 WCF rifle and pistols but need some rounds using ssssub that don't smoke. The range I am going to shoot at said black hurts the steel beams that are exposed. So what smokeless powder is best to use in the .44-40? I do reload and have several books but would like to know which powder other than black is the best over all: I have Red Dot, Clays, Universal, and etc.

How many rounds will the mag tube hold?

I got one for free. A friend had one cut and gave it to me, his grandson used it. He is now 6'3" and needs a long stock.

I have a 97 that the grand-daughter likes that the stock needs about 1 1/2" cut off for fit. I don't want to cut the factory stock so where can a after market stock be gotten?

Several years ago a guy on drugs used one to holdup a store in NJ (I think). All guns used in crimes was to be cut up. Was not cutup but given to the Coast Guard Musiaum after much head scratching trying to save it.

Any one ever shoot one. Sure would like one but cost is to much.

I keep 3 young persons shooting using EAA's. The only thing I did was weld up the hammer doing away with the transfer bar. Tow guys and a girl learnt how to load a six shooter real quick. I picked them up when I started shooting and they are still going strong in my son's safe with grandkids working on them.. Our rule is you shoot them you clean them and have never had a part break.

could I have a copy? warren5421@indy.rr.com

I have 2 nickeled, bad job, 3rd gen with black powder frames, consec serial numbers, .44 WCF, 5 1/2 barrels. One has 3 cylinders, 2 with 1st gen taper in .44 WCF and .44 SP and one .44 WCF with no taper. The other only has the two tapered cylinders. Each have over 20,000 rounds, all black powder, through them before I started using 4 2nd gen Colt 1851's and 2 Colt 2 gen stainless consec serial numbered 1860's. Unless my son is shooting the Colt SAA's stay at home. He likes his 7 1/2" blued USFA's in .44 WCF better.