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Pee Wee #15785

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  1. Longshot Logan's Instructions for refinishing INSTRUCTIONS FOR REFINISHING A UBERTI STOCK. I also do refinish for people who would rather not tackle the job themselves. I have been refinishing gunstocks for 30 years on and off. Over the past several years I have done quite a few Uberti rifles and handgun grips to get the red sprayed finish off. Here is the method I use all the time for great results. List of items needed. 1.) Quart of Orange Citristrip gel. Available at most larger Hardware stores. 2.) 00 Steel wool and 0000 steel wool. 3.) Minwax Oil Base stain in your choice of color. 4.) 1 paint stick. 5.) Formby's Tung Oil, either high or low gloss. 6.) Old cotton Tee shirt. 7.) Steam Iron. 8.) 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper. 9.) Rubber disposable gloves. 10) Disposable foam brush. 11) Cheap white 1 inch bristle brush 12) Old Newspapers. 13) Old toothbrush (if checkered) On a 73 - To remove the fore-stock, you first have to remove the two screws that hold the fore end cap on, and then remove the block that the screws mount to from it's dovetail. Then tap out the pin in the mag tube mounting block on the end of the barrel (this locks the mag tube in place). Slide the mag tube forward and out, then the block out of the dovetail. The fore end will then slide off. You may be able to remove the fore end without removing the block at the end of the barrel by just sliding the mag tube forward enough to drop off the fore end. The rifle should be disassembled and the wood placed aside on a good work bench free of debris and clutter. Lay out a piece of newspaper and lay the forearm and butt stock down. Apply the Citristrip with the bristle brush liberally ( as thick as you can ) to both pieces covering the sides as much as you can. Now forget about it for about 40 minutes minimum. This stuff stays active for 24 hours so you could even put it on and leave it for a long time. This wood now will be mostly free of the finish where you applied the citristrip ( It smells nice so you wife won't kill you ) Use the paint stick wearing the rubber gloves and scrape the finish off. it won't all come off the first time and will need to be repeated. The 00 Steel wool is excellent for taking the finish off after scraping. Change the newspaper and lay the wood down again and do another area. You will go through a few pieces of newspaper before your done. As you go follow the same routine with the paint stick and steel wool. Once the wood is bare and clean you can apply one more coat of the citristrip, let it sit a few minutes and then wipe it off following with a good rub down with the 0000 (Extra fine steel wool). You will be amazed at the results. If the stocks are checkered the old toothbrush works well taking the finish out of the checkering. Now to look over the stock for damage. If there are actual gouges where the wood grain is cut you will have to decide if sanding them out is an option. If there are dents (most likely) then move onto the next step. With the flat iron set hot enough to produce steam (no hotter) take a 6 inch piece of the old tee shirt and soak it in water and squeeze it out. Fold it over a couple of time and place it over the dent. Put the steam iron over it and you will see what happens. The water in the cotton is forced into the wood grain and raises the dent out of the wood. Repeat until it's all out. This take very little time. Once you are happy with your work take it to the kitchen and quickly run the stock under water and pat it quickly to get the excess water off it. Now hold it about two feet over the stove burner constantly moving it until dry. You will feel whiskers all over. These are the end grains of the wood. Use the 400 grit paper very lightly to knock them off followed by a good rub down with 0000 steel wool. The stock should now be ready for final finishing. Use the Stain with the foam brush applying it heavy and letting it sit. After a few minutes wipe the excess off and see if that is the color you want. Reapply for a darker finish. When it looks nice let it dry 24 hours, I know this part will kill you but it is important. When dry use the 0000 steel wool lightly and wipe down with a clean cloth. To apply the Tung oil follow the labels directions. the first few coats take the longest to dry but after that you can put 2 or 3 coats on in one day. I use a piece of the old cotton tee shirt folded into a 2 inch square and make long runs following the grain to apply the finish. Don't apply this finish in anything but thin coats. I usually put 10-12 coats. After every couple of coats (when dry) go over it with 0000 steel wool. I have a wood dowel to hold the forearm and a wood dowel to hold the stock and have them in a 2x4 so the pieces stand up to dry. In a weekend you can get the Uberti to look like a million dollars. Be careful if you use sandpaper to stay away from the stock' sharp edges )the parts that attach or come up to metal) if you over sand these areas the job will look lousy. This procedure take patience but well worth the end results. If you can get the exact items I described you will be set. To get the high gloss finish just end with a coat of tung oil. To get the low gloss after several layers and when dry just go slowly and steel wool with 0000 followed by furniture polish. This finish can be touched up easily. Longshot Logan This should work unless you need a new stock
  2. Any of the importers spec Color Case Hardening and a 20" hex barrel in .44-40? I have a old Rossi with the hex barrel (.44 WCF) that really shoots ill for me.
  3. Been using Black from the 5th grade when the neighbor brought out his grandpa's 1860 Army that was used in the State's Rights shooting scrap. That was sometime around 1955-56. Reason for stock is there is a NCOW's club about 10 miles from my house and am thinking about shooting there.
  4. just looking for a bone stock as at 75 I'm not a speed demon. I do know there is a difference specked by each importer so want the best specked gun
  5. Use a fine sanding grit if you sand. 100 -300 should be good but I use 300-400 to start with and end with 800-1000. Over kill but I like a very smooth finish. Personally I use brass wool to work any stocks as steel wool can get embedded in the wood and discolor the wood in the area over time and use. The other way is replace the old wood with AAA walnut . I use real Tung Oil and do a hand rubbed finish but for what the wood is, the time to do the refinish, most of the stock refinishing products on the market work fine.
  6. Looking for a new stock Uberti 73 in .44 WCF or .44 sp, which importer has the best finish, smoothest gun and best customer service. I have not looked at any rifles yet. I use a 73 I bought in 2002 that was imported by Navy Arms with the red stock that I keep thinking I will refinish. I like my Marlin Cowboy and Rossi short rifle better in the finish department, but the 73 is smoother. Never had to use Customer Service with any of them.
  7. "To Warren E. Young on out 10th Anniversary-Love Judy"
  8. another picture, blow up the area around the barrel wedge and see the cat
  9. It is a Mac program I think as I use a Mac.
  10. I use .458" 500 Grn. RN Lyman 1-Cav. Mould #457125. Lyman Single Cavity Cast Bullet Mould produces Lyman Rifle bullet #457125, .458" nominal diameter, 525 grain, Round Nose bullet This is the original standard 500 grain 45-70 Government bullet. This has been in the mould line for nearly 100 years. Lyman Top Punch #374, Item#LYM2786719. Approximate Bullet Dimensions: Bullet Length-1.350". Bottom of Crimp Groove to Bullet Nose-0.76". It gives me a 530 gr bullet used in a C Sharps, a H&R Trapdoor, and a 1884 Trapdoor. I used them to shoot to 700 yards. I don't have a flexible cleaning rod so use a blow tube. My best was 7 out of 10 on a ram my not so good was 0 out of 10 shots, today with my 75 year old eyes get 3 or 4 hits is great. I like a a big heavy bullet if I am shooting over 200 yards. My guns just shoot better with heavy bullets. All the guns have their own load they like.
  11. Sam Cherry give her a call, the real engraving ... http://www.cherrys.com/samanthacherry.htm. Here is some of her work.. Sorry you have to down load to see. This is my main match guns. 1851 Colt 2nd gen guns engraved by Sam Cherry. If she isn't backed up she will do a good job and get the gun back to you quick. Her family owns Cherry's Guns. Refinish is by Turnbull-Nickel, Case Hardening, and Blueing.
  12. Tequila you call that smoke we can still see you. I think I like your loads. What were your loads? One of the best pictures I have seen showing the smoke.
  13. I just started reloading for the .38-55 in a Browning High Wall. I use FFFg as that is what I have. If I could get it I would use Swiss = to FFg. I ordered the long brass from Star Line. I made a dummy round with no crimp so the lead could move into the case. Inserted in the chamber, measured that round and set the bullet .003 shorter. Done the math to know how deep to set bullet. did the math to determine the max hight of the powder charge compressed less .060 as that is the thickness of my over powder wad. I use a 336 gr bullet that with my eyes will hit in a 5" grouping at 200 yards, max my range is. Use little or no crimp. If you use a lever gun you have to crimp. I do want to try smokeless so at that time I will use the loading manual first.
  14. I was trying to be sarcastic to Assassin's first post. I would not want to go backwards but this sport like any other has advanced as the more competitive people have looked for a way to go faster be it good or bad for the sport. Name another sport that the people spend $1000's over the years doing it with no prize money etc at the end. Do I like where it is today "NO" but would not change it as it bets the other gun sports hands down. What sport keeps their shooters coming back as the advance in age slows the ability to win the big prize? Most people doing SASS get much more out of it than just shooting. I think it is a much safer sport now than when I start shooting it.
  15. Why not go back to the first rule book and forget all the advances. Why can't I shoot in any category my age lets me, as it isn't like you are going to win the pink rusted Nash by shooting a certain category?????
  16. Shot an Indiana State around 06 give or take where the last 2 stages were shot in heavy down pour and they all went off. Loaded under my hat, keep guns under the hat till capped. After that I carried a golf umbrella in the truck and put on gun cart if raining.
  17. I would like 4 pair of Colts. A pair of Colt Paterson Percussion Revolvers, No. 5, Holster Model en-graved and with the 3 interchangeable barrels, pearl grips. A pair of early Colt 1851 Navy 1st Model revolver. Made in 1850 engraved by Gustave Young, with German silver blade front sight, full folitate and scroll-engraving, Colt one-piece ivory grip. Left grip panel with raised carved Mexican eagle other gun right grip panel with raised carved Mexican eagle. A set of 1st gen Colts, 5 1/2" barrels in .44-40 full engraved by Gustave Young or Nimschke, Nickel plated, and Standing Liberty pearl grips. Last a pair Colt .45 Nimschke en- graved with 5 1/2" barrels, Nickel plated, and Mexican Eagle on-piece ivory grips like the 1851. Would also like a pair engraved by Helfricht. all in Colt Cases with all items included at time of build. You said dream gun.
  18. I am taking mine to Ace Hardware to see if they can help.
  19. MVA and Lee Shaver win. one each to see which is more to my liking.
  20. It is so hard I have only been shooting cap guns for 65 years rain or shine, heat and cold.
  21. Yes but has both a short and long shaft. It has a short mounting unit. 2 holes about 1/2" apart. Think it is a Marlin/Ballard mount..
  22. one more pass then I go looking for something to tell me the threads.
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