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Tully Mars

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  • SASS #
    40161
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    River City Regulators, Gold Country Wild Bunch, Sunnyville Regulators, Coyote Valley Cowboys

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern California

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  1. Mike, The Colt style C&B's pistols I'm familiar don't have a cylinder bushing to allow a constant cylinder gap. The one's I'm familiar with the cylinder pretty much rides on the barrel leaving no gap when fired. Tully
  2. None of the Pietta's I own have need the arbor adjusted, but all of the Uberti's have. That my just be my luck? My Pietta's did need the bolt width narrowed to fit in the notch on the cylinder, I'm pretty sure Pietta has corrected that issue. Both makers gun's need some tuning, nipples and cap rakes or such. I shoot the brass frames as above and the Pietta Marshal's. In my opinion the Uberti's might be the better looking gun, but in need of more work than the Pietta's. My wife has Colt 2nd generation 1862 navies. They are by far the prettiest cap guns we own and a joy to shoot, however they needed a tremendous amount of work to function correctly. Tully
  3. I started with a Norinco/IAC and currently have two. I'm not going to try and convince you to go that route, the screws are soft and I don't take the guns apart anymore for fear of stripping threads. The one I started with still runs strong, I've had hook screws break, the hook itself has broken and the ejector on the outside left of the receiver is a pretty common part that breaks. This was my Chabot gun, Cowboy gun and original WB gun, it's had a ton of hard use, most of which was being fully stoked and run as hard as I can run it. Whatever you end up with it's best to replace or have replaced the hook screw as mentioned above from the Screw Shop. I'd consider having the action hook inspected or replaced as well. TL in Utah use to do some really nice 97's, but I don't know if he still does. I'll bring my Chabot gun Sunday to Richmond, you can borrow it until you find something. No BP please through it Tully
  4. I use the same set up as H.K. Uriah mentions for BP and smokeless on a Dillon 650, without issues. What size powder funnel are you using? It should be a snug fit, mine is .429. and my bullets are .427. Tully
  5. Not the socks but the cases. Ok, i understand. I have those as well. A good embroidering shop could put it on a nice case for you. If you can't find what you're looking for, PM me. Hopefully Wild Bunch went well! Tully
  6. I read the article by Joe Perkins and found it very informative. While visiting Standard Manufacturing's website I noticed they make 1911's as well. These look great at a decent price with a match barrel and bushing and checkered front strap. The magazines look good too. I can ask on the WB wire, but does anyone here have experience with SM's 1911? There's a local shooter that has a pair of the SAA's from Standard and they are beautiful! Tully
  7. Blaze Kinkaid, If you haven't already ordered the rifle sock, let me know. I have 2 still in the package. Tully
  8. I have the PGW in my Wild Bunch rifle, it is 100% reliable with Federal primers. It works well and feels good, but a ground mainspring actually feels better to me. That said it's been in there for years and I haven't seen a need to change it. My 73' for cowboy has a ground flat spring. Those I know with the Shotgun Boogie kit are happy. Look at Slix Springs too, I've felt these at Winter Range, they function well, but I haven't shot a gun with one installed. Tully
  9. There nothing wrong with Unique, it's been my go to load for years. As Garrison Joe pointed out OAL length is critical as well as a good crimp. Case gage every match round and the Lee bulge buster is a handy device for rounds that don't case gage. Use good quality magazines. Have fun in November! Tully
  10. McCandles, I have cylinders, each has five slick shot nipples in them. PM me and we can discuss it. Tully
  11. Oh yeah! I probably shouldn't be allowed to have a bullwhip either, but what a great idea! Yes the "Peanut Gallery" can to often steer the shooter in the wrong direction. Tully
  12. I haven't noticed a growing trend to blame the TO, but over the years there has always been that fraction of folks wanting to blame someone else. Once a gun malfunction occurs my focus goes to the safe handling of that gun and not the target order, if the shooter wants to poll the spotters that's fine by me or if I'm certain I speak up. On the flip side I've noticed a trend of TO's not offering anything to the shooter, yes it's the safest position to take, but it's our job to assist them safely through the course of fire all while minimizing procedurals and safety concerns. If a shooter doesn't want help they should say so before the beep or accept the what the TO offers. If a shooter needs a nudge to get them to safely move to the next position, I'll give it. As TO's we will make mistakes, that will bother us and possibly effect our shooting. Tully
  13. 24" is where I would start, you can always make it shorter. Take into account moving in and out of prop windows. I agree with the KOOL factor mentioned above of the shorter barrels, but the M12 is light in the front, extra weight helps to stay on target when pumping fast. I have no problem with my 20", but I have weight in the mag tube, without it I come off target. Start long, then shorten it, don't add a bead until your happy. I would also suggest asking this question on the WB wire.
  14. The model 97 and model 12 are completely different inside. The 97's barrel is much thicker than the model 12's as well. The barrel assembly's might swap, but I doubt that it would be an easy swap considering the action slide bars are not the same. As Cheyenne Culpepper mentioned above the model 25 in essentially a non take down model 12. Many of it's parts will fit the M12, however the M25 is not an approved shotgun.
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