Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

If I put a metal reinforcement (steel or brass) in a stock, it's going to be set within epoxy, coating the surface of that metal anyway. The reinforcement will be kinder to the stock than the steel of the action and barrel, which are in constant contact with the wood furniture for the life of the firearm. good luck, GJ

And that statistics have a lot of MEANNESS in the results, on average. I've only witnessed gunsmiths shooting work guns which they have rescued at major matches, like EOT and WR and BT. Shooter is usually anxiously waiting for the gun so they can get back into the match. So, if the GS runs a magazine full (10 rounds), most declare it Good To Go at that point. good luck, GJ

Did he get a Microgroove barrel? That has rifling, but it's only 1/3 as deep and has more lands and grooves. Hard to see without a strong light. The other type of rifling (standard for most other rifles, and on some Marlins) is the Ballard (cut) rifling. More expensive to make, but usually much better accuracy with lead bullet loads. If it is Microgroove - Either shoot jacketed loads or HARD cast bullets. Or reline the barrel. good luck, GJ

I surely trust the RCBS (second would be Hornady) to be better designed to stay in correct position. Lee often uses just an o-ring to hold the die "lock" ring in place. Thus, die can shift. Even their seating stems are usually "fixed" with an o-ring. I like a solid lock ring or jam nuts - preferably the split ring with a clamping screw that I can crank down when the die is set and the ring is down snug on the press head. And two different stem shapes are usually included in high quality pistol die sets, too! (I have no Lee loading dies any more...BTW)

Probably missing something. Since this is the first time you've loaded 9MM, dies could be a problem. A HP bullet should not be real tough to get a consistent seating position with. Your Lee neck expander die is probably opening the mouth of the case too much. Slug should be pretty firmly held by neck tension. If you can move the slug ANY by hand after seating and before crimping, you don't have the neck tension you need. Ask Lee for a smaller diameter expander button. If they can't provide one, chuck the stem and button (with couple of jam nuts on the stem to prote

I use only Brownells Acraglas epoxy on broken stocks. Waterproof, solvent proof, permanent, generally stronger than the wood. Clean joint of any residual oil or grease. If joint is in the grip, I'd reinforce with at least wood dowels, and probably hidden steel all-thread or even screws. Pull joint together with rubber tubing. Brownells has all the components, including dye to make it possible to get very close to color match on the wood. good luck, GJ

Folks have already found that out. You get an auto-ejecting shotgun. Breech opens, shotgun shell "blows" out the back, but at pretty low speed. But you do want to get the gun fixed so it stays locked. good luck, GJ

The call for that should have been the P that you suggested. But of course, you can't call a P as the shooter, only suggest one. Can't give the shooter 5 misses unless 5 misses were seen or 5 rounds were not expended! Unloading table check showed, I'm sure, all 10 rounds expended. So the correct call is P for violating rules of the category (one or more simultaneous discharges of gunfighter revolvers). good luck, GJ

Yep, why go hide to remove empties? Feeling guilty? Penalty accrues on ARRIVAL at loading table, on any stages except first of day. First stage of the day, empties in a gun at loading table don't amount to penalties. Good reminder to the shooter to "Pay Attention to Unloading" Other stages, the SDQ goes on previous stage shot. Take your SDQ with grace. An even better reminder to the shooter. Or could the gun have contained live rounds?? Now, no one knows but the shooter. Page 28, Shooter's Handbook good luck, GJ

Simplest explanation for why a firing pin bent would be a tight fit of the LH firing pin tip in the recoil shield of your gun. Could also be that faulty heat treatment or wrong alloy was used on a batch of pins. On either of those problems, it would be kind of you to let LongHunter's know about it so they could track down the problem. I might understand not wanting to tell the wire about it. But not telling the vendor? That I would not understand. I'll bet they would stand behind their product if they had made some sort of manufacturing error. good luck, GJ

Ummm, I'd be looking for a mechanical problem in your gun. Longhunter's smithing is excellent. His pins are usually excellent. They might want to see those pins and your gun to see what is causing the bent pins. Bet they would work with you on this! Hard to believe there is something wrong with the LH pins. Did you originally bend factory pins, also? If so, then why go back to those? good luck, GJ

I clean that with a dilute solution of grout removal cleaner - sulfamic acid. In a pint of water, put in 2 ounces of vinegar and a tablespoon of sulfamic acid crystals. Warm in microwave in a glass jar to dissolve crystals. Dump in badly tarnished brass, stir a little, take out brass (no more than a minute) - after all carbonates have bubbled off the brass. Wipe brass with a green scrubbie pad. Rinse in water. Takes the tarnish off like magic, and not had problems with it weakening the brass. Just don't leave it in the solution for more than a minute. It will clean range

Yeah, from what I know of that Lyman drain design, I'd never open that drain. Use what works, ignore what fails. Everyone has a different definition of success - but if you put up with "failure" for your criteria, as we can see, you will be disappointed or worse. good luck, GJ

We watch for folks who have fiber wads in loads and keep water available. Bays are kept clear of any dry vegetation. Other than a few flaming wads, it's not any different than smokeless powder shooting. good luck, GJ

Final Score Same as Always Results - 100 Intent - 0 good luck, GJ

Spotter is not allowed to make a protest. Only the shooter can file a protest about a call on his stage. Spotter can make a "corrected call recommendation" (for a anything other than a miss call) to the TO, but the TO still gets to make the final call. Sounds like a poor decision to let the Posse Marshall call it, and especially without a shooter protest. good luck, GJ

Believe it's way easier for a club to go a year or three without getting to run the state match than it is for a rancher to starve his cattle or sell 'em off cause his lease was revoked. Said club can still run a nice annual and draw in operating funds if they want. Losing your grazing lease is about as bad as losing your water rights - a death sentence. good luck, GJ

That is one big reason the used dryer sheet goes in the vibrator media before running the brass lot!

If you have problems getting media out after dry vibrating, you are doing it wrong. I've got an old 3 pound coffee can with hardware cloth riveted over an open bottom. Shake hard a few times and the brass is completely separated. Unless there is a small case stuck in a big one (9mm really likes to hide in .45 Colt cases). Another "darn good" vote for dry vibrating, plus a little paint thinner and a used dryer sheet to suck up the dirt and grease. And no drying time either. good luck, GJ

YEAH - shoot THEM irons in Plainsman, will ya? GJ

None of my Cowboy or WB shotguns have recoil pads. Have seen female (and male) shooters INSIST on having them installed. Better to keep them happy than sore (in more than one way). good luck, GJ

I could see allowing 5 shots loaded in each of two large-capacity single actions. If shooter gets them indexed right. Shooter takes a risk of hitting empty chambers with the firing pin if they mis-index, though! Then folks would all do the same draw and reholster mechanics. good luck, GJ

A grind-to-fit KickEEZ pad. KickEEZ cause it's the best for recoil absorption. Grind to fit, because you will almost certainly NEED to trim the stock down to a shorter length. The minute you chop any length off the stock, a "FACTORY FIT" pad for a Stoeger no longer fits. And the grind-to-fit will fit to whatever stock you have. Factory fit pad can have reinforcing steel in it at the most inconvenient places, so it gets exposed by grinding it down. Take a measurement of the hiegght and width of factory stock and get a grind-to-fit that is that size or slightly bigger. Then,

If'n you don't feel up to doing it yourself, here is one pard who can fulfill your request (from another cowboy's post on Classifieds): "If ya don’t find a used one, call 'Slater' (Eric Slater) at 865 / 591-5129. He is a dealer in E.TN and he is a good Cowboy shooter. Look him up on Facebook: Slater's In House Guns. I bought a new one from him, and had another worked over by him. He is Widder approved. He is a Great Cowboy to deal with and meticulous with his work. I highly recommend him. " good luck, GJ

Fingers on the tip of the hand. Cheap, flexible, accurate. Only difficulty is delivering said fingers down to where the brass is. good luck, GJ (to read between the lines - you can understand I don't like any of the pickers I've seen - all too much bother and too slow.)